What air pressure are you guys using that have trouble with un thinned pearls? I dont have trouble but I've also thought I might be running at to high of a pressure. I usually run right at 28-30.
All the way up to 40.
Jump to content
Now I Own The Future
50 replies to this topic
Posted 20 May 2011 - 09:28 AM
All the way up to 40.
Posted 21 May 2011 - 07:34 PM
When I first started using paint doctored with Future in my Iwata HP, it dried in the barrel (especially around the packing) after I'd rinsed out the brush and stored it. The next time I used it, bingo - the needle would not move and only needle nose pliers would get the needle out. So it's worth paying extra attention to cleaning the barrel section of your a/b if you use Future.
Posted 22 May 2011 - 10:34 AM
Sounds like an acetone backflush and needle cleaning is going to be my last step whenever I use Future.
I've gotten spoiled, since a water/detergent backflush cleans my brushes so well now, but the addition of Future seems like such a plus, I'm willing to add another cleaning step.
It's probably a good step to add, anyway.
Thanks for the headsup, Bob.
Posted 24 May 2011 - 11:02 AM
It pays to do chores!
I was out in the laundry room, doing a load of laundry, and looked up on the shelf above the washer. There was half a bottle of Future floor polish sitting there.
I actually don't have a problem shooting Createx pearls unthinned, but my Folk Art metalics are very thick, so I'm going to try the Future out on one of them.
Posted 24 May 2011 - 12:31 PM
Big Bass Man, When I first started using Future as a thinner I added water along with the Future and for me it seemed to water down the paint to much for me. I've been adding straight Future to my paints with no problems so far.
I usually will fill a empty AB paint bottle with 50% paint then add about 10-15% Future. Mix and check paint. If it needs a little more Future I'll add a little more.
Posted 26 May 2011 - 11:47 AM
I've been trying to figure out a way to hold the trigger down and back for automatic flushing with a full jar of alchy or acetone. A rubber band worked, but it was kind of awkward and the trigger tended to Plaster of Paris off the valve. Maybe two rubber bands. Or maybe epoxy a small plastic cap - like thing to a hair elastic, then put that on the trigger. Watching the solvent in that big jar go down during a flush is like watching grass grow. Now that I'm using Future I want to make it easy so I do it all the time!
Posted 26 May 2011 - 02:21 PM
I haven't used Future in awhile because when I initially tried it my paint got bubbly in the gravity feed. Huge bubbles. Overflowing huge bubbles. Did I pick up the wrong kind of Future? Seemed like what I got was pretty much soap.
Posted 26 May 2011 - 09:18 PM
Thanks Kris!! Thats what I was wandering, if adding water with it would thin the paint to much.
Posted 27 May 2011 - 10:24 AM
I have a feeling you may be missing a step in your cleaning process that makes it much faster, and cuts down on the amount of acetone, or any cleaning solution, that's needed.
I haven't yet tried the Future, but this is how I clean my brushes.
Between colors, I backflush and clean with a water and dishwashing liquid mixture, but, when I'm done with my painting session, here's my final cleaning routine.
I wear a nitrile glove on my left hand when I paint, and when I clean my brush, since I hole my crankbaits in my hand a lot of the time to paint them, and I'm right handed.
I back flush with acetone by covering the nozzle tip with my left index finger, and then shooting the acetone through at full air pressure, full paint. That forces the solvent back up through the cup, or back into the bottle on my siphon brush, and does a great job cleaning out the tiny air holes in the nozzle.
It doesn't take a lot of acetone to clean out all the paint.
I use a small fine bristle brush, dipped in the acetone, to clean out the nozzle tip, where dried paint accumulates as I paint.
I then remove the needle, wipe off any paint and solvent, and then push it back and forth in the hole to get any remaining paint out, and shoot some more acetone through the brush to get any last paint out.
Then I put my water/detergent mix into the bowl, backflush and shoot some of it through the brush to remove the remaining acetone and to lube the needle, and it's set for the next time I want to paint.
I'll probably use acetone after each Future-thinned paint, because BobP said he noticed the Future sets up strong in the needle hole, and I don't want to have to use pliers to get it moving again. Silly me.
Posted 31 May 2011 - 11:51 AM
Yes I do backflush w/ 50% alc. It's the last step, and once I backflush I dump what's left out to avoid running that crap back through. I've been doing multihour sessions lately with futurized pearls, and flushing with a full jar of the 50% at the end of the day. Every single time (I've been testing the for about 5 days now) the needle has been 100% smooth the day after. I probably wouldn't worry about it.
Posted 01 June 2011 - 08:25 AM
I've found that acetone is a much more aggressive solvent for cleaning than alcohol.
If I backflush with acetone, and then loosen the nozzle slightly and back flush again, it's amazing how much dried paint is pushed back into the bowl.
I don't know exactly how airbrushes work, but I do know that having the tiny holes in the nozzle clogged makes painting almost impossible.
Posted 01 June 2011 - 08:41 AM
Be aware that some airbrushes have small o-rings that may degrade over time. I didn't find out what the o-ring material is but I did see on a airbrush supplier web page offer solvent resistant o-rings. I took an airbrush class and the instructor said he changed his Iwahta airbrushed from rubber o-nng to teflon. He does all kinds of airbrush work- art work to automobile and use solvent based paints. My take away is that if a brush starts acting up maybe replace the packing o-ring.
Posted 01 June 2011 - 08:42 AM
I'm with Mark about the acetone. I even run a little through my gravity feed brush when cleaning between color changes. It's also what I do my final cleanup with. About once a month or so I will let the brush soak in Createx airbrush restorer for an hour or two. This procedure solved all my clogging issues.
Posted 01 June 2011 - 03:46 PM
Do you mean that you loosen the nozzle and backflush right off, or do you tighten it back up before the flush?
Posted 01 June 2011 - 03:49 PM
So far so good on mine. They seem to still be soft and pliable but I should probably start looking for a chem resistant set of replacements, including a length of tubing that I can slice into packing. Alcohol is really hard on rubber, or maybe my HG deluxe has chem resistant seals.
Posted 01 June 2011 - 07:58 PM
This is what I do after every paint session, or if my brush starts to act up.
I back flush with acetone with the nozzle tight, then loosen it and back flush again. After this backflush I check the cup. Typically there are little chunks of dried paint flushed back into the cup. I remove those with my finger.
Then I tighten the nozzle and backflush again with acetone.
Last, I pour some of my water/dw detergent mix into the cup, and move the needle back and forth to get the acetone out of the needle barrel.
Then I backflush with the water/detergent mix, and I'm done.
Posted 02 June 2011 - 12:49 AM
Sam, bubbles in the cup always indicate a clog in the tip, in my experience. The correct product is labeled: Pledge Floor Care, Tile & Vinyl Floor Finish with Future shine. It used to be labeled simply Future. It's not a cleaner containing soap but an acrylic finish.
Posted 02 June 2011 - 01:10 AM
As I understand it (and I'm no expert), solvent resistant packing has become pretty standard in airbrushes. When they say "resistant" that doesn't mean "proof" of course, but I don't hesitate to shoot lacquer thinner or acetone to clean my brush and so far, no problems in several years. Water, soapy or otherwise, is just not going to remove all the dried deposits in an airbrush. Soaking for hours in an airbrush cleaning solution does the trick but is not something I want to do after every session (I do it several times a year).
The instructions for Future say to remove it with ammonia and Armstrong cleaner in water. But running a cleaner containing ammonia through your airbrush will gradually strip the chrome plating out of the airbrush and is a no-no according to Iwata factory reps.
I haven't found the perfect way to remove traces of Future from my Iwata's barrel and packing. Sometime I have a stuck needle problem, sometimes not. Wiping the needle with a little machine oil before storage seems to help.
Posted 02 June 2011 - 09:54 AM
Thanks, BobP. Strangest thing is that I used a new from the box cheap-o Harbor Freight brush to try it out. Didn't want to test it on my Iwata. Lots of bubbles. Figured it was the brush. Loaded it up in the Iwata and same issue. I'm going to check my bottle and make sure I got the right stuff. I could swear there's some kind of soap in mine. My brush works fine for most everything else, although it doesn't care to spray pearls very much, even when liberally thinned with water. Think the two are related? I just did a thorough cleaning with acetone (usually use DA) and we'll see if that makes any difference.