sammy01007

Sharpies Over Clear Coats

9 posts in this topic

I want to try to use sharpies to add more detail in my lures until I get better with the airbrush. I also don't want to mess up the lures I have completed so far. I was wondering if I could draw detail over a thin layer of clear coat, then if it doesn't look right clean it off with denatured alcohol or isopropol. After I finish and like the way it looks, simply add another layer of clear.

I tried this with a ruined lure. The sharpie cleaned off nicely, and I did not see any adverse effects on the clear, but I am not sure if it will have any long-term effects or if there is a threshold for how many times I could "wipe-clean" the clear.

I was alos thinking of just trying to airbrush over a thin coat of clear (for gilss, fins, mouths, details) and washing it off with warm soapy water if I don't liek the way it turns out. And again, adding a clear over it when it meets my approval.

Any thoughts.....

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I want to try to use sharpies to add more detail in my lures until I get better with the airbrush. I also don't want to mess up the lures I have completed so far. I was wondering if I could draw detail over a thin layer of clear coat, then if it doesn't look right clean it off with denatured alcohol or isopropol. After I finish and like the way it looks, simply add another layer of clear.

I tried this with a ruined lure. The sharpie cleaned off nicely, and I did not see any adverse effects on the clear, but I am not sure if it will have any long-term effects or if there is a threshold for how many times I could "wipe-clean" the clear.

I was alos thinking of just trying to airbrush over a thin coat of clear (for gilss, fins, mouths, details) and washing it off with warm soapy water if I don't liek the way it turns out. And again, adding a clear over it when it meets my approval.

Any thoughts.....

I think it depends on the clearcoat. When I mark epoxy coated lures with a Sharpie, I have trouble getting it off because the dye soaks into the epoxy. Also, Sharpie is a solvent based marker. If you put it on a lure and cover it with a clearcoat containing a solvent (a urethane or an epoxy modified with solvent like Etex), it will run. If you apply detail with acrylic paint, you can topcoat the lure with any topcoat. Or you can use a Sharpie and topcoat it with an epoxy like Devcon Two Ton, which contains no solvent. Or you can just finish the lure and use the Sharpie over the dried/cured clearcoat, knowing it will eventually fade.

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I think it depends on the clearcoat. When I mark epoxy coated lures with a Sharpie, I have trouble getting it off because the dye soaks into the epoxy. Also, Sharpie is a solvent based marker. If you put it on a lure and cover it with a clearcoat containing a solvent (a urethane or an epoxy modified with solvent like Etex), it will run. If you apply detail with acrylic paint, you can topcoat the lure with any topcoat. Or you can use a Sharpie and topcoat it with an epoxy like Devcon Two Ton, which contains no solvent. Or you can just finish the lure and use the Sharpie over the dried/cured clearcoat, knowing it will eventually fade.

Thanks BobP.

I use Etex as the clear. I plan to shoot a coat of createx clear over the sharpie prior to adding another coat of etex as I've read this prevents bleeding effect.

I was able to remove a black sharpie fairly easily with DA, but I am worried of the effects DA will have on the DA, especially if I use it to many times....

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I have never tried to use a sharpie before on my baits. If I needed some really good detail I would cut out a stencil and hold it over the spot you want to put it and spray through your cutout. Thats what I do.

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They make water based acrylic pens that won't react with any top coat. I've done some really detailed trout patterns (tons of spots) and couldn't recall which clear wouldn't react with the sharpie marker and it ruined all my work....run city. I've even had this result with Devcon. Even sharpie makes water based markers in different colors and thicknesses might want to get a few to save you some headaches.

JK

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sharpies and other markers are what we call death. if you are going to re-paint that lure it will bleed. we re-paint lures as a custom service. we will not re-paint sharpie covered lures.

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I use solvent based sharpies a lot, because I'm not a very skilled painter.

When I use them under epoxy, I shoot a coat of Createx clear over them first.

When I use them under urethane, I heat set the sharpie colors thoroughly first.

I find that black doesn't run under urethane, but red does, even when it's heat set.

I use red for my gill highlights, and don't actually mind a little running there, since I dip my lures and hang them tail down, so the red runs look kind of like the bait is bleeding. If I don't heat set the red, I get a full blown set of flames! ;)

I also find that red soaks in and spreads if I put it on over epoxy when it's fresh. I've used it to brighten older baits, and that hasn't spread.

The red doesn't seem to spread over urethane, fresh or old.

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I was alos thinking of just trying to airbrush over a thin coat of clear (for gilss, fins, mouths, details) and washing it off with warm soapy water if I don't liek the way it turns out. And again, adding a clear over it when it meets my approval.

Any thoughts.....

this is what i do and it works nicely. i just put 1 coat of polyurethane over my base colors and then spray details and wipe off as necessary. then i finish the bait with epoxy when i like the details.

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I use a "paint" marker to highlight the lateral line on commercial baby bass pattern crankbaits. I usually break or lose the lure long before the paint wears off, but if not I just mark it up again. On those that I add a feathered tail hook too, I will also shape the feathers and tip them with the same paint marker to give that dark tail tip look of a bass.

Edited by Bob La Londe

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