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Spraying Clear Coat
44 replies to this topic
Posted 30 May 2011 - 08:42 PM
Hey looking for a little info on spraying clear. I'd like to do it with my airbrush set up if possible. Any prefered products for this? Is clean up a bear? I've dipped and brushed for a while but I am looking for a thinner coat than what you get with Etex or D2T products. Thanks in advance!
Posted 31 May 2011 - 12:50 AM
I think the only durable thin clear that is usually sprayed is auto clearcoat and it usually requires an airbrush with a larger tip than used for painting. Cleanup is the same for any solvent based clear but you need protection against organic solvent inhalation while spraying auto clears. If a thinner but still durable clearcoat is your aim, I'd also consider dipping lures in Dick Nite S81 moisture cured urethane. Can't get much faster than that!
Posted 31 May 2011 - 06:16 AM
on plastic lures and some wooden re-paints. we use automotive clear. the mix is 4 to 1. you need ventilation system. it sprays very well. dry to touch 45 minutes. full cure in hours. normally its approx 35 bucks a quart including activaters.. clean up for airbrush is standard lacquer thinners sprayed thru the tip. we use a paasche h brush with a nu.5 tip at 50lbs spray.
hope this helps.. oh ya this clear does not yellow. we have 20 year old paintjobs that are still gin clear.
Posted 31 May 2011 - 07:34 AM
Thanks for the info guys. What type of ventilation requirements are we talking about? I'd be doing this in my garage
Posted 31 May 2011 - 10:14 AM
after doing some more research it looks like the garage is not the best idea. Im assuming also ill have to switch to like an auto air type paint. any other paint types being used with automotive clear?
Posted 31 May 2011 - 01:17 PM
I don't think you need to switch paint. Regular acrylic airbrush paint should be fine. Auto clears contain toxic isocyanates and organic solvents and you need a mask rated for that to protect you. I've seen some in the $35 range and wearing one while shooting is the minimum I would consider. Other protection depends on how much and how often you shoot the stuff but for coating lures, it's not like you were shooting quarts of the stuff at one time on an auto body in a closed paint booth. Many guys who use it regularly shoot inside a table-top paint booth with forced air filters. I don't shoot it but if I did, I'd be looking for a "high solids" clearcoat and separate hardener. They are usually sold in sets with enough hardener to match the mix ratio of the clearcoat - typically 2:1 or 4:1 mix ratio.
If your aim is a thin but very durable "factory look" clearcoat, I'd still give serious consideration to Dick Nite S81 topcoat. It has strict storage requirements but is a breeze to use if you want to dip lures in it. Dip it, hang it, done. Can't get much faster or easier than that for a great topcoat. Just read up on the storage and application requirements before you buy it.
Posted 31 May 2011 - 01:51 PM
Thanks Bob. I have considered Dick Nites but the problem I have is I am doing multi segment 5"-9" swimbaits and you have to be real careful with the quanity of clear you get in and around the joints. D2T and Etex are just too thick for my liking plus they take a while to cure and the edges have to be really smooth to keep it from drawing back. Also I have a lot of carving detail that I think would really look good with a thinner top coat where as the thicker epoxies all but erase it
Posted 31 May 2011 - 07:47 PM
I've had a bit of luck thinning out etex quite a bit. your results may vary, etc.
Posted 31 May 2011 - 11:16 PM
Yep I've confronted the same problem with jointed baits and spraying is the only way to go. I know so many guys love the epoxies but they are starting to look a little gaudy when I compare them to sprayed lures. The problem with auto clear is that even after the spray process issues....the smell is very noxious and lasts for days. I've been using some crappy polyurethanes for my own personal test baits but I'm going to try the Dick Nite -81) through my air brush. There's a method described whereby you put a tap screw of sorts in the bottom and just dispense the amount your going to spray to deal with the storage issues. Minimizing any contact with the air. I'll let you know how it works out. Clear coats are always a compromise ...the only thing I know for sure is I want to spray mine.
Edited by jkustel, 31 May 2011 - 11:18 PM.
Posted 02 June 2011 - 02:16 AM
I've been spraying our S81 Moisture Cure Top-Coat through an air brush for about 15 years now - it works fine. Simply thin with acetone to a consistency you can spray a wet coat (I start 25 - 30% thinned and adjust from there), then let it dry. Clean up with lacquer thinner (take the brush apart and CLEAN it, don't just spray LT through it - no surprises next spray that way!).
Works well with small to large air brushes as well as touch-up and larger guns.
Posted 02 June 2011 - 02:49 PM
Well, there ya go! Info from the guy who knows!
I've used DN S81 for a couple of years and really like the end result. Never tried airbrushing it but am glad that's an option if I want to coat segmented lures that I can't dip.
Posted 02 June 2011 - 02:53 PM
Thanks Dick. Do you mind if I pm you a few additional questions?
Posted 03 June 2011 - 02:41 PM
im assuming the 81 is compatible with createx. Also any suggestions on brush tip size. Think im gonna go pick me up another brush dedicated to spraying but wanna get the "correct" tip size
Posted 03 June 2011 - 03:13 PM
Createx is compatible with DN. Just be sure to heat set the paint before you spray or dip. Reading this thread has peaked my interest in trying to spray DN, I usually dip my lures.
Posted 03 June 2011 - 03:17 PM
Thanks Jay. I just want a cleaner look. I have spent a lot of time carving details and the bulky epoxies just cover it up. If I can get my ??s answered I think I'm gonna try it
Posted 03 June 2011 - 05:37 PM
I really like DN. Very easy to dip your lure and hang it to dry, plus the finish is outstanding. People don't like dealing with the storage issues that are involved with it but I bought a quart over a year ago and have had zero problems with it hardening in the can with the use of bloxygen.
Posted 05 June 2011 - 09:48 PM
The cheap harbor freight brushes work pretty good with a DN 4:1 mixture. I don't know for certain what tip size they are but I would guess about a .5. And if you plug one up it is only a $10 brush.
Might want to look at U-Pol #1 Clear. It is an auto clear in a rattle can. It isn't epoxy or DN but it works good for jointed baits.
Posted 05 June 2011 - 11:58 PM
Is that 4 parts acetone 1 part DN?????? When you use the U-Pol clear do you put anything else on it....are just use the U-Pol......How many coats of U- Pol do you use???? Thanks
Posted 06 June 2011 - 02:43 AM
I tried the U-Pol once. Sprayed it over acrylic paint to get a thin coat of clear on the paint job to protect it while I added gill details and such. I then dipped into DN S81 and the paint wrinkled immediately!!! I'm thinking the solvents in the DN and the solvents in the U-Pol didn't play nicely together. Just something to consider if you plan on using the S81 with the U-Pol.
Posted 06 June 2011 - 10:02 AM
I used to spray Lure - Craft Poly -Sil, a 2 part clear, through an Iwata HP-C. 0.3mm tip iirc. Shot beautifully. The poly-sil paints can clog your brush to the extent that not even MEK will pull it out if you don't clean soon after the session, but the clear seemed to be less problematic. Many auto clears require not only a respirator but that the respirator be air - supplied along with a shoot suit.
You have the most absolutely killer looking swimbaits I've ever seen.
Edited by blazt*, 06 June 2011 - 10:03 AM.