nitro98

Spraying Clear Coat

45 posts in this topic

A .5mm nozzle should be fine. Try thinning to something around a 40% mix of acetone to DN and hold your airbrush no farther than a couple inches from the bait. I usually run my air pressure around 15 to 20 psi.

 

I've had the "silly string" thing happen to me. I must have had enough acetone in my mix that I could spray back over it with the airbrush closer and it would melt the strings back into the finish.

 

Try the things I've mentioned and see what happens. I've found the "mix" to be fairly forgiving as I mostly eyeball it. Be sure you stir really well when mixing the DN and acetone. You shouldn't see any "swirlies" while stirring. It should be completely clear without any "ghost lines" of DN showing up as it's stirred. This might be hard to see as both ingredients are clear, but mixing it under a good light you can see any shadows created by the different viscosity of the two products.

 

 

Ben

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Thank you so much Ben, I will give it a shot tomorrow.

A .5mm nozzle should be fine. Try thinning to something around a 40% mix of acetone to DN and hold your airbrush no farther than a couple inches from the bait. I usually run my air pressure around 15 to 20 psi.

I've had the "silly string" thing happen to me. I must have had enough acetone in my mix that I could spray back over it with the airbrush closer and it would melt the strings back into the finish.

Try the things I've mentioned and see what happens. I've found the "mix" to be fairly forgiving as I mostly eyeball it. Be sure you stir really well when mixing the DN and acetone. You shouldn't see any "swirlies" while stirring. It should be completely clear without any "ghost lines" of DN showing up as it's stirred. This might be hard to see as both ingredients are clear, but mixing it under a good light you can see any shadows created by the different viscosity of the two products.

Ben

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Let me know how it works out Shaggy. If it's still giving you problems maybe we can work something out.

 

Ben

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I have been wondering about this. Ben does it matter if the brush is gravity or siphon fed? I am using gravity but I was wondering if Shaggy is using a siphon type. Could any equipment that Shaggy is using be the issue?

Dale

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I've used both Dale. Didn't seem to make any difference as long as the airbrushes were clean and spraying properly.

 

Ben

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Let me throw these out there since I'm new at this product. I worked with the thinning and spraying DN. I found that at times I got heavy or to light on the trigger. :) The next thing that I am going to throw out here is contaminates in your air delivery system, compressor, hose including a semi blocked hose, brush. Where you lose volume and pressure past your gauge.

If contaminates is not a issue. Make sure you have proper volume through the hose. The problem is if it's a slight blockage it will be hard to tell other then using a gauge. Bring the pressure up a little and watch to see if that helps.

It is always something that you don't think of, if the product is a proven one. Well that's it for me.

Wish you all the best,

Dale

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Thank you so much guys. Talked to Dick Nite yesterday. Going to use your advice and his and will find out this morning how it works. Will keep you updated on the issue.

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Please, curiosity is up. I would like to know what it is.

@ Ben, While we are on this topic. I'm worried about my brush that I'm using for the application of the coating. I have only used it once and I cleaned it properly. I want to buy one dedicated for clear coating and get this one back with my other one for painting.

What would you recommend but not breaking the bank for DN? You mentioned siphon being used by you. I was thinking of this type because of the jar to hold the product. What's your or others opinion on this?

Thanks,

Dale

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Good luck Shaggy. Hope you get it worked out.

 

Dale, I bought a cheap Harbor Freight gravity feed airbrush to use specifically for spraying DN. Don't remember exactly what I paid for it, but it was cheap. Figured if it eventually threw craps I wouldn't be out much. I've also used my Paasche VL siphon feed when there was several baits to coat at one time. More often than not I only build a couple baits at a time so didn't feel the need to buy a HVLP gun.

 

Ben

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Ok, I have always painted a group of baits and that habit has followed me to wood carved baits. I believe I'm going with a mid range priced siphon type. I just couldn't stand losing a Iwata to a error or higher then normal wear and tear of the cleaning.

Thanks,

Dale

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Much thanks to everyone. You guys are awesome. So taking a bit of advice from all of you guys and DN after a great phone conversation I decided to spray S81 without thinning it at all. We used a .5 tip with a psi of 10. Sprayed very close about 2 inches from the blades and put on a heavy coat. Sprayed roughly 250 blades and they are smooth and glass like. All blades had been dried for a week. If this finish is super tough like everyone says then this is how we will do blades from now on. In sure I'll have to thin an opened can that stars to thicken a bit in the future but for now in.happy with the results. In a week I will do durability testing.

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Next time try "tapping the can" with a small valve. It will save product.

Glade to hear that your on your way.

:) Dale

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I bought small jars to start. I will buy in larger quantities and have research tapping the can. I'm sure I'll mess it up but I'm gonna try.

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Glad you got it worked out Shaggy.

 

As far as the product starting to cure in the can a lot depends on how much your using. If you go through a quart a week I doubt you'll have too much trouble. Probably nothing that Bloxygen won't handle. The storage issues give those of us who only build a few baits at a time WAY more trouble than someone using a bunch every day. Depending on how much your using it might be a better option to order in smaller amounts. If you can go through a pint in a couple days I highly doubt you'll have any storage problems. It might cost more initially to order it this way, but you may end up saving money in the long run since you wouldn't be losing product. That's just something you'll have to figure out yourself.

 

If you need any help on "tapping the can" just holler back and we'll try to help.

 

good luck, :yay:

 

Ben

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After thinking about this topic and what has been stated. I have changed my mind and ordered a large cup gravity fed to save clear coat over time. Just straight to the brush and used, no storage other then the can.

Take care,

Dale

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Again. Thank you so much. I've been a lurker on this board forever and usually figure stuff out on my own. But I really struggled with this issue. I still have a few minor things to work out but I think DN is going to perform well and also save me a lot of time and money in the long run. If you are using S81 or any other DN products I highly suggest calling Dick himself. The best customer service I have ever worked with.

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I really like DN. Very easy to dip your lure and hang it to dry, plus the finish is outstanding. People don't like dealing with the storage issues that are involved with it but I bought a quart over a year ago and have had zero problems with it hardening in the can with the use of bloxygen.

Bloxygen is argon, the heaviest (most dense) of the inert gasses. Some have suggested the use of "dust off" or similar compressed air on you tube. But I have had problems with these alternatives. The argon will settle in the storage container and keep any oxygen from reaching the clearcoat. It is the proper thing to use for such storage.

 

Here is some interesting anecdotal info on argon. Helium, another inert gas, is well known for its ability to raise the pitch of your voice. Being lighter that air, it is easily expelled. I have heard report of some people trying argon to see if it would lower their voice. It does, but it also settles in your lungs. If not handled correctly, you can drown on it. One man was reportedly revived by being hung upside down by his ankles, allowing the gas to flow out.

 

As a welding supplies salesman I know that there are safety issues with argon in enclosed spaces. A friend of mine died in the 90's from argon. As always, know what you are working with, its dangers, and possible remedies. 

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When spraying, it is all about viscosity - the ability of a substance to stick to itself (for lack of a better explanation). Each substance has its own viscosity. This can be adjusted with the proper reducer, but only to a certain extent. With a clear coat you are not doing detail work, your goal is an even, uniform coat. An expensive airbrush should not be needed. Also you have a wider range of viscosities that will work. Good luck, and remember that figuring it out is half the fun!

 

Kudos to Dick Nite for helping you in this regard. That is what all suppliers should do. 

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