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Sbaits

Repairing Glidebait

5 posts in this topic

Sbaits    1

Last weekend I managed to fish my first successful oak glidebait and after having a phenomenal weekend of seemingly cast after cast fish it no longer has the action it had at the start. When I first ran it I could troll with it and it would walk on its own (same with reeling). By the end of the weekend this action was gone, I could still make it work manually but it just didn't behave like it once did. I tried tuning the line tie like I would a crankbait but I couldn't seem to see a difference.

I'm assuming that since teeth penetrated through and there is raw wood exposed that it soaked up water and that's the problem. I would like to seal it with Etex this week so I can fish with it this weekend but I'm not sure how long I have to wait?

Edited by Sbaits

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Did you seal your wood blank before you painted it? What kind of topcoat did you use? If you are fishing toothy fish I would put mutiple coats of etex on. You need to wait around 8 hrs between coats and sometimes longer. After your final coat is on I would wait at least 72 hrs before fishing.

CLM

Last weekend I managed to fish my first successful oak glidebait and after having a phenomenal weekend of seemingly cast after cast fish it no longer has the action it had at the start. When I first ran it I could troll with it and it would walk on its own (same with reeling). By the end of the weekend this action was gone, I could still make it work manually but it just didn't behave like it once did. I tried tuning the line tie like I would a crankbait but I couldn't seem to see a difference.

I'm assuming that since teeth penetrated through and there is raw wood exposed that it soaked up water and that's the problem. I would like to seal it with Etex this week so I can fish with it this weekend but I'm not sure how long I have to wait?

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Vodkaman    888

If you are not stripping the lure, then the drying process is going to take a very long time, unless you help it. Place the lure in a warm place, preferably where the air is moving. On the top of a refrigerator, hanging down the back is a good place, as the warm air rising from the heat exchanger is restricted and rises quite fast. Another method is to build a drying box, with a 75 Watt incandescent bulb and an axial fan, this will dry your lure in 24 hours.

You can monitor the drying process if you have an accurate gram scale. Monitor the weight every few hours, when the weight reduction stops, you are done. This takes all the guess work out of the drying process. I do this when drying PoP molds or wet stock wood.

Dave

Edited by Vodkaman

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mark poulson    1,680

Sealing wood bodies before painting, and protecting them from fish's teeth and rocks, is a never ending battle.

It was disheartening for me to put hours into making and painting a lure, only to have water intrusion ruin both the action and the finish.

I tried every sealer that was suggested by TU members, and all failed eventually.

It's just the nature of wood to be absorbant, no matter what species. Only teak and malaysian hardwoods have enough oil to stop water absorbtion, and they are even heavier than oak, and a bear to machine and finish.

I gave up using wood almost completely when I got turned on to PVC decking ( thank you JR Hopkins)

I haven't had a paint failure, or a lure failure period, since I switched to AZEK PVC decking as a building material.

It is as buoyant as poplar, strong enough to hold screw eyes, and hard enough to withstand teeth.

And totally waterproof, so the sealing issue is gone.

Edited by mark poulson

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Sbaits    1

CedarLakeMusky

I sealed it with 1 or 2 coats Etex then used 3 coats of Etex as a topcoat. The paint job held up fine, its just 3 tooth marks from large pike that were able to penetrate through. First fish at 7am was a 38" pike and she managed to make the first one, next cast was a 34" ish(didn't measure), pulled up 4 fish that day in the 35" range and I'm satisfied with the protection it provided for a trial bait. Now I'm going to make a dozen more in 2 different sizes because I’m hooked on this bait.

Vodkaman

I work with engineers and that sounds like something they would have said. However my fridge doesn't seem to put off heat at the back but those are good tips and I'll be using them. I don't think it soaked up much water but I'm not sure, I think I'll touch it up with lacquer the day before I use it. Then I’ll let it dry thoroughly during the coming bi-week.

Mark

I went to buy PVC decking prior and it only came in large sizes that would need to be planed and was very expensive but I'm going to be looking into ordering some in as it seems ideal. I did not know about the teak so I'll have to check that out thanks!

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