Ken-Spin

Resin Or Foam For Top Water Striper Poppers

9 posts in this topic

I am going to make a number of RTV molds from lures I have personally made (all top water striper lures) and need help on the type of resin.

They will be finished with etex after airbrushing and installing eyes. I hope to use a 1 piece mold with wire through construction but not sure if possible.

I have read every thread that I can find on the subject and seem to be down to 3.

Featherlite, Aluminite RC-3 with microbeads and 16 lb foam. I have heard pro's and con's on each. 16 lb foam seems to be the most cost effective.

These are intended for resale.

I need to draw from knowledge and experience here and thanks in advance.

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If you are going to through wire, which one you use won't matter.

From my personal experience, Alumilite RC-3 is the easiest

to work with. I have used all of them. I will never try foam again.

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Thank you

If you are going to through wire, which one you use won't matter.

From my personal experience, Alumilite RC-3 is the easiest

to work with. I have used all of them. I will never try foam again.

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Using RC-3, will I be able to get enough micro-balloons in and still pour to get the desired flotation with 2 treble hooks hanging off of it.?

Also, what size wire would you use for the through wire? I am guessing about .050 - .060

Edited by Ken-Spin

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If you are going to through wire, which one you use won't matter.

From my personal experience, Alumilite RC-3 is the easiest

to work with. I have used all of them. I will never try foam again.

I agree and I second that on the foam.

@ Ken

Feather lite seemed a little weak for me and if your going for stripes the lure may not survive :blink: RC3 with balloons will get you the desired floatation and durability that you need. IMHO if you are going to do a few molds of the same type bait, on the first run do 3 castings with different amounts of micro balloons record the amount of MB's for each then run some tests (hardness floatation) for each when you have a winner you got the mixing formula and can replicate the bait over and over wether you want it to sit high or ride low.

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I agree and I second that on the foam.

@ Ken

Feather lite seemed a little weak for me and if your going for stripes the lure may not survive :blink: RC3 with balloons will get you the desired floatation and durability that you need. IMHO if you are going to do a few molds of the same type bait, on the first run do 3 castings with different amounts of micro balloons record the amount of MB's for each then run some tests (hardness floatation) for each when you have a winner you got the mixing formula and can replicate the bait over and over wether you want it to sit high or ride low.

Good advice...................go easy in the beginning. You may find your lures won't work correctly from resin. Many of my favorite baits run far better from wood than they do from resin and microballoons.

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Good advice...................go easy in the beginning. You may find your lures won't work correctly from resin. Many of my favorite baits run far better from wood than they do from resin and microballoons.

ditto on what Riverman said. If you will make your mold so you can pour the bottom half first [rather than all at the same time] you can tinker with having less MB in the lower half making it more dense and then pour the rest of the bait with more MB. This sort of gives more balast and the denser material will hold the hooks better.

BTW: I wouldnt use epoxy on resin. It will work but don't expect the same results as you get on wood or plastic. From my experience your much better off using DN or a similar product on resin.

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theres a great videio on utube by daliburg(hunt for big fish fame) on making a topwater bait using micro balloons and foam as a float just look up lure making utube you should find it

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I made a few with Alumilite and microballoons. If you useany of these 2 part urethanes (they are all the same) without a filler it will be brrittle and subject to cracking. If you use the microballoon filler, it will be more like a rigid foam and subject to flexing. It takes some getting used to......I had more success by using just a water based clear poly over the paint. The clear poly doesnt get real hard like epoxy and can handle the flexing.

If you are using Featherlite, you may not need to put microballons in it. I think that one is already boyant.

Sonny

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