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vabassen02

Cracking Clear Coat

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OK guys , question about clear coat . After I have sanded and cleaned the baits . Once I get a good number of baits ready for clear coat , we mix it up and coat the baits. The first 4 can be great , then one will crack up , then the next 12 will be fine , and then another one will crack up. We use gloves and only touch the bills of the baits . We are dipping the baits in the clear coat . What is happening ? Help ......driving us crazy....lol

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OK guys , question about clear coat . After I have sanded and cleaned the baits . Once I get a good number of baits ready for clear coat , we mix it up and coat the baits. The first 4 can be great , then one will crack up , then the next 12 will be fine , and then another one will crack up. We use gloves and only touch the bills of the baits . We are dipping the baits in the clear coat . What is happening ? Help ......driving us crazy....lol

What clear are you using?

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OK guys , question about clear coat . After I have sanded and cleaned the baits . Once I get a good number of baits ready for clear coat , we mix it up and coat the baits. The first 4 can be great , then one will crack up , then the next 12 will be fine , and then another one will crack up. We use gloves and only touch the bills of the baits . We are dipping the baits in the clear coat . What is happening ? Help ......driving us crazy....lol

I can only speculate here. When you say "we mix it up and coat the baits.", I am assuming a 2 part epoxy type clear. Combined with "We are dipping the baits in the clear coat ." There's only two things that come to mind with those two statements combined. Either undermixed clear or not completely dry paint. There is a possibility of uneven coverage but that seems less likely than the first two speculations. Again only speculating here, If mixing large amounts of the clear the heat reaction is compounded and if using some type of drying device it may be possible one side is drying faster and "Drawing" the other side out ie... thinning/stretching/cracking.

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I can only speculate here. When you say "we mix it up and coat the baits.", I am assuming a 2 part epoxy type clear. Combined with "We are dipping the baits in the clear coat ." There's only two things that come to mind with those two statements combined. Either undermixed clear or not completely dry paint. There is a possibility of uneven coverage but that seems less likely than the first two speculations. Again only speculating here, If mixing large amounts of the clear the heat reaction is compounded and if using some type of drying device it may be possible one side is drying faster and "Drawing" the other side out ie... thinning/stretching/cracking.

We using Klass Koat urathane. We let the paint dry for 24 hours min and sometimes up to 2 weeks before applying the clear coat . We only mix in small amounts to clear about 50 or so baits because the Koat sets up in so many minutes . We clear the baits , attach them to turn wheel for about 7 minutes and then reply the second coat . Is this right ? Its weird you get five right , then 1 cracking, then 20 ok . Am I doing something wrong ? Thanks for answering back , ya'll the best .

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I think it's very hard to deduce the cause of a coating failure when you layer different types of coatings over one another, especially if the coatings are not from one "family" of coatings produced by one company, or are not coatings known to be compatible through wide usage. If you aren't causing the problem because of some mistake in applying, drying, or curing the Klass Koat, look at what's under it - especially any other solvent based coating. Most TU'ers shoot water based acrylic colors. They have a few good points, not least that a fully dried acrylic usually does not react chemically with most popular topcoats including 2 part auto clearcoats. But a solvent based undercoating or "primer" can react with a solvent topcoat, even through an intermediate acrylic color coat. Unless someone else uses exactly the same regimen of coatings as you do, there probably isn't an answer and you'll just have to experiment to resolve the problem.

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I think it's very hard to deduce the cause of a coating failure when you layer different types of coatings over one another, especially if the coatings are not from one "family" of coatings produced by one company, or are not coatings known to be compatible through wide usage. If you aren't causing the problem because of some mistake in applying, drying, or curing the Klass Koat, look at what's under it - especially any other solvent based coating. Most TU'ers shoot water based acrylic colors. They have a few good points, not least that a fully dried acrylic usually does not react chemically with most popular topcoats including 2 part auto clearcoats. But a solvent based undercoating or "primer" can react with a solvent topcoat, even through an intermediate acrylic color coat. Unless someone else uses exactly the same regimen of coatings as you do, there probably isn't an answer and you'll just have to experiment to resolve the problem.

Thanks for your time and the info .

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