8 replies to this topic

[BassSniper]

Ok after a year, and a half of abuse. i broke my Abu Garcia Vendetta rod. Its a 7ft M. Is it possible to remove everything from the blank, and place it on a new blank. I hate to see the guide's, reel seat, and butt go to waste because the blank broke. Don't care who makes the blank, or how tuff of a job it may be. Just need to know if, and how. Thanks for the help in advance.

[Mattman]

The guides can easily be reused.

The handle is pretty much a one time item. You'll destroy them getting them off the blank. The only time I've been sucessful at reusing a handle was on heavier powered rods. I cut the blank off right at the reel seat and then using a lighter powered blank, dropped it down inside the original blank.

[BassSniper]

Ok thanks. Guess i will be cutting all the guides off for back ups if i ever need them. Thanks Mattman

[Musky Glenn]

I have had great success with broken rods by taking a section of another junk rod and cutting a 2" section large enough to fit over the broken rod. By gluing this 2" section over the broken rod you can save a good rod. I use d2t for the glue to hold the splice together. I also wrap a 1/4" of each end of the 2" piece to keep it from splitting and cover the thread with d2t. It ends up looking kinda like a ferrule and takes away from the looks, but you, usually, won't be able to tell any difference in action, no matter how close to the end of the rod. Trial and error on cutting the 2" section for a semi snug fit, d2t is quite forgiving. Watch it to maintain straightness. Musky Glenn

[Jwags]

Musky Glenn, on 06 September 2011 - 09:13 AM, said:

I have had great success with broken rods by taking a section of another junk rod and cutting a 2" section large enough to fit over the broken rod. By gluing this 2" section over the broken rod you can save a good rod. I use d2t for the glue to hold the splice together. I also wrap a 1/4" of each end of the 2" piece to keep it from splitting and cover the thread with d2t. It ends up looking kinda like a ferrule and takes away from the looks, but you, usually, won't be able to tell any difference in action, no matter how close to the end of the rod. Trial and error on cutting the 2" section for a semi snug fit, d2t is quite forgiving. Watch it to maintain straightness. Musky Glenn

That's a great way to do a repair but you need to make sure that the oversleeve piece is made from fiberglass. If you try to oversleeve with another piece from a graphite rod, it will shear right above the repair when it's under heavy load. You'll also need to make sure that the sleeve runs 1" past the break on each side it you are making the repair near the tip of the rod. If it's near the butt, you need to make it longer. Like Musky Glenn said, when you're finished, just wrap the oversleeve tightly with thread and give it a coat of epoxy.

jeremy

[Vodkaman]

It is a good idea to chamfer the sleeve at the ends. This will act as a strain relief. Snapping problems occur when you have a sudden change of section. You still nee to wrap the ends for support, but the wrap can now be extended past the joint, for a better look.

Dave

[BassSniper]

I'm glad I checked back before i turned it into a fly swatter. I have a old fiberglass zebco i would not mind sacrificing for the cause.

[Musky Glenn]

Those are all good suggestions but I would disagree just a little. I used to use fiber glass sections but went to graphite because of their extra strength before you get to the wrapping part of the repair. When I was trying to find a good fit with the fiberglass, I was having trouble with the weaker fiberglass splitting length wise while trial fitting. The fiber glass also had more flex than the graphite rods I was repairing and it caused the rod to flex at each end of the splice and caused the thread finish to crack at the end of the splice and turn white. I went to making the graphite splice neat and square on the end and not wrapping down onto the rod and it stopped that problem. Never had one to break at the ends of the splice. They didn't look as good as wrapping down the rod, while new, but in a years time I liked it better. It will certainly work with fiberglass splices and wrapping onto the rod blank. Musky Glenn

[Mattman]

Your over sleeve needs to flex more because it has to flex more being on the outside of the assembly. It doesn't necessarily NEED to be fiberglass, it just needs to be of a lower modulus material. Most times, fiberglass is the easiest and best choice.

Taper the ends of your over sleeve.

Wrap with rod wrapping thread and use a urethane finish over the thread.