mwbassin

Nip-i-diddee

13 posts in this topic

Has anyone tried making one of these? Would like to know because I want to have some turned for me. Any help is appreciated.

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You'd have problems to find such props with a bearing bushing , only the plain ones around , as fas as I'm concerned .

I'm utilizing small pop rivet heads of aluminum to act as bearing bushings , ....without these those props are quite unreliable to spin properly .

Doesn't look as neat , but does work fine for me .

good luck , diemai :yay:

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I know I am bumping an old thread. But, I'm in search of the nip-i-diddee type bearing/prop as well. I have PM'd "Spare Tire" but it appears he has been active for quite some time. Any help is appreciated

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I like the look of that bait myself. I don't know the proper name for the parts and Dieter may have just named them but I would like to know. Not stealing a thread but have to ask while I have a chance.

What is the name of the gromit that goes into the bait at front and rear, to support the wire pulling thru? And where can they be found? Are they called bearings as was mention? I need to do that on some baits that I'm making.

Thanks much,

Dale

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Dale - there may be something official that you can buy for the job, but most will buy a pack of p0p rivets and snip out the center pin.

 

Dave

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I like the look of that bait myself. I don't know the proper name for the parts and Dieter may have just named them but I would like to know. Not stealing a thread but have to ask while I have a chance.

What is the name of the gromit that goes into the bait at front and rear, to support the wire pulling thru? And where can they be found? Are they called bearings as was mention? I need to do that on some baits that I'm making.

Thanks much,

Dale

Hi , Dale ,

 

Such vintage lures barely have a thru-wire system , but are rigged with screw eyes , ...the parts , that you call "grommets" are called "cup washers"  , in this case they make up for bearing surfaces to let the props spin easier .

 

This particular lure sports "hook hangers" or "hook hanger plates" on it's belly , ......these make up for less hook swing , thus minimize hook rash and hook fouling on such vintage lures , on genuine vintage lures there are various styles of such hook hangers to be found , but nowadays only such are available .

 

Any lure component shop does carry such lure hardware , for example  http://lurepartsonline.com/ and also http://www.mooreslures.com/   does .

 

Greetz , Dieter :yay:

Edited by diemai

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As y'all know I'm going to design a lure for toothy critters. It will have a thru wire system, which could pull thru the wood, I guess. I was thinking of placing the cup washers on each end and in the belly for, "just in case". Are they needed?

Dale

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@ DaleSW

 

Made such lures before , ...thru-wired and equipped with props fore and aft .

 

I would make the thru-wire in a way either to glue it into a belly slot passing all the way through the lure(a "U"-bend for the belly hook hanger and two long tag ends to the "U" to act as the prop shafts)or drill a center hole from the rear right down to hook hanger level and make a belly slot ahead of the hook hanger to insert the wire form from the front , ......off course all epoxied in thoroughly at final assembly of the blank , ....after sealing , but prior to painting .

 

I would utilize small p-o-p rivets passing over the prop shafts glued into either end of the blank to act as bearing surfaces for the props , .....as bearings to help the props to spin freely I would switch a small metal bead(spinner components) between prop and rivet head(front) and one or multiple beads between prop and the rear shaft closure wrapping closing the rear hook eye .

 

Multiple beads may act as spacers , if the hook should fall too close to the rear prop , ........there are hollow metal beads available to save on weight .

 

Do not make a simple wire shaft passing through a center bore with a figure 8 belly hook hanger or a simple swivel slit over it interally , as a fish hooked on the belly hook might then losen the glue bonds and pull the blank backward on the shaft binding the rear prop , ......the entire wireform requires to be thoroughly anchored to keep the lure functional .

 

Good luck , Dieter :yay:

 

PS : Shop-bought props would have their bore too large for wire forms , as they are made to fit screw eyes , ...in this case you would have to make p-o-p rivet bearings to the props as mentioned above , ...if the props cant too much on the wire , proper spinning would get hindered .

Edited by diemai

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Has anyone tried making one of these? Would like to know because I want to have some turned for me. Any help is appreciated.

 

I think I have a few of their carving kits.  Lure Jensen sold them as Christmas gifts years ago and I think I got several over a few holidays.   I never put them together.    If you are just looking for that style bait to fish (not build)  the Gilmore Jumper is an option.

 

http://www.gilmoretackle.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=94_95_99&product_id=78

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I think I have a few of their carving kits.  Lure Jensen sold them as Christmas gifts years ago and I think I got several over a few holidays.   I never put them together.    If you are just looking for that style bait to fish (not build)  the Gilmore Jumper is an option.

 

http://www.gilmoretackle.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=94_95_99&product_id=78

kermett adams  @ k lures makes them...........he has the correct hardware and his work is five star....as good as I've seen........................nugene

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The typical prop usually sits on a cup washer which you can source from the same place you buy the props (lurepartsonline.com for one).  I do not use screw eyes on my baits for several reasons and prefer to build them with hard temper ss wire.  But it's hard to size the wire so the props will turn freely without too much blade slop, which makes it hard for the prop to start up.  For a free turning prop, I do the following:  buy some buzzbait rivets from the same source.  They will pressure fit neatly into the prop hole and then you can cut off the excess length on the rivet shaft with a Dremel  tool cutting disk.  You want to trim the shaft of the rivet so you aren't piling too much hardware onto the shaft and making it longer than necessary.  Works great and the props will start turning easily every time you twitch the bait.

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I did find some "flanged sleeve bearings" from McMaster carr. If those don't work, I'll go with the rivets

I

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