Juice780

Dn Alternative

37 posts in this topic

Guys I searched this stuff and couldn't really find any info on it. Says its non yellowing and description sounds like it might work. I'm about out of DN and haven't heard back from him. I might try it unless somebody says it won't work. If I he t some ill let u know how it goes.

http://www.poolandmarinepaint.com/index.php?l=product_detail&p=241

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I haven't tried Garco but have used Famowood MCU. I bet it will work just fine though it may be a little thicker than Dick Nite S81 (not necessarily a bad thing). That's a very good price on a quart of MCU, especially with free shipping.

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I have never used MCU products but thinking of trying this winter. I have read about all the storage issues. I really want to just dip and hang my lures but have read many tap the can. I am thinking of putting the MCU can in another air tight container full of desiccant packs. I have access to free used ones. Have no idea if it will work though.

Thank you for sharing the link.

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If using this product, would you dip it and hang to cure? Think I would like to try it if so.

Edited by saltshaker

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i always dip with dn so i would probably do it with this stuff too, i put dn in a mason jar with some aluminum foil on top before i put the lid on and i always use bloxygen every time i open havent had any problems, last batch got a little thick towards the end but i still had good results

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I'm gonna call these people tomorrow about this urethane. Got some questions about storage, etc. I'll post the answers I get.

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As far as storage goes, MCU is MCU. The Garco and Famowood are sold as floor finishes. As far as they are concerned, you open the can, use it in one or two closely spaced sessions, and you're done. Using it up in 50 sessions spaced over a year is not in their play book. The first MCU I bought was a can of Famowood. It lasted 2 months before starting to cure in the can because I didn't know how to store it. I did learn that you cannot remove the lid from a metal can 10-20 times and tamp it back on without ruining it. And if you get cured MCU in the lid channel, well, just know that you don't want that to happen. I decant a quart can into 2 or 3 glass containers with good screw on lids. The best sealing ones IMO are Ball canning jars with the two part lids; a flat cover with a rubber gasket and a screw-on piece that tightens it down. And I never close a lid without spraying Bloxygen in the jar first. I can't comment on the "tap the can" method of storage because I dip lures and need larger volumes for that. It may work for someone who brushes or shoots MCU.

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I talked to the people this morning about the urethane and, to be honest, all I got out of the conversation was that the higher the humidity...the faster and harder it cures. :oooh: I'm like.....I live just north of New Orleans. Lack of humidity is not going to be a problem. I never really got my questions answered. I asked about storage and the lady said to buy quarts instead of gallons. :? Sorry I can't be of help.

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i ordered some and i'm gonna try it out should be able to store it the same way i do dn, cant belive it was free shipping

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i ordered some and i'm gonna try it out should be able to store it the same way i do dn, cant belive it was free shipping

Let us know how it goes... My DN has started to thickennnnn. Not good.

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I ordered a bucket of the Garco. Haven't received yet but should be here in a day or so.

Question:

I want to try to spray this stuff on some reels that I refinished, but, I don't want to use my Iwata. It has a .3mm needle. I am thinking of buying a cheaper unit to spray with and was wondering what size needle I would need. Maybe a .5mm? Maybe a mini touch-up gun?

I'll be sure to let you guys know what there is to this Garco.

Thanks

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The storage issues always held me back from trying the original DN. It sounded like the perfect topcoat, except for those issues.

I have tried to simplify my building and painting processes over the years, because, while I love building and painting, I'd rather be fishing.

If you're just a hobby builder, like me, and want something easy that works, PM me and I'll tell you what I use. I did make jointed swimbaits for sale for a while, and they are still swimming with no paint issues.

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Looking forward to the results Saltshaker! Thanks for taking one for the team :)

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well i got it in today, took a couple of days to process my order but it shipped in 3 days. First thing i did was empty it into a mason jar and seal it like always do with DN. I normally let it sit for an hour or 2 to let all the bubbles disappear so i dont get bubbles when i dip. First thing i noticed was it has a yellow tint to it, and that worried me alittle cause i dont want my baits to have a yellow tint. I think it may be a tad thinner than dn but it smells the same. I just finished dipping my first batch and it went good. I have some painted shad color which is mostly pearl white body and they dont have a yellow tint at all so i hope they dont develop one. The stuff says non yellowing moisture cure so i hope it stays clear. I'm storing it the same as dn and i use bloxygen so i will let you know how that goes as far as curing goes it will probably be next week before i have some more ready to coat again. Not sure if i am going to need to dip a second time yet i'll wait till these cure enough so i can touch em and i'll find out then. I have one bait that i am going to put in water so i can tell if i have any water penetrating problems. How long should i let the bait cure before i try this? I am gonna be out of town till sunday for a wedding and i might try to go to the lake sunday afternoon and test em out on the lake if i feel they are cured enough. I'll keep you posted on the results, i love dn but its hard to beat the price of this stuff and fast shipping. I've been waiting 2 weeks on an invoice from dick for some more dn. I do belive you get what you pay for so i'll let you know how it goes.

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I looked at the baits this morning and they look great. I can't tell any difference in this stuff and DN so far.

Edited by Juice780

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Juice, I got mine this morning. Immediately took the lid off, stirred it and dipped a bait. Just couldn't wait any longer. Didn't take long for it to tack. Do you think I can spray it through a .3mm tip? Doesn't seem to be any thicker than any other furniture or floor finish I've ever used. Would it be ok to thin it if necessary in order to spray?

I saw this on the label and thought it was funny considering what we're using it for...

"Surface may become slippery when wet." :oooh:

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I really don't know I've never really sprayed DN or any other topcoat maybe someone who has sprayed DN could tell you more about it. I would probably thin it but with what I don't know.

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Been using this for about 3 weeks now. Its not bad, the cure time is pretty quick, but the dry time is a little longer than DN, that may the change in the weather though. It is a good tough coat that dries clear, but in testing side by side, DN is definitely harder and more scratch resistant. Using a deep diver, regular cast and retrieve showed very little marks after an hour, but the same style crank trolled for 20 minutes showed hook rash on both sides. I reckon what top coat wouldn't with new hooks in that situation though? So it comes down to this, for the price and availability it is a good "Alternative". But its not DN S81... MHO...

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I've been practicing foiling for a few days now, and, with invaluable help from Ben, I did six baits that were PURR-FECT! No wrinkles, no belemishes of any type. I was so proud of myself. So, the next step is to seal them so I can detail the back and belly. I dipped them in the Garco and all hell broke loose. Wrinkles were everywhere from head to tail.....everywhere except the back and belly. So, I proceeded to strip them by soaking in Xylene (the recommended thinner for this product). The clear coat and the decal came right off, but, getting that foil off was a female dog. My guess is that there was a reaction with the decal because there were no wrinkles in the foil, itself. I dipped one bait that had a water slide decal (no foil) on it and the same thing happened. I dipped a bait that was just painted with Createx (no decal or foil) and it was spotless.....until I recoated it. :oooh: I'm stumped! Any thoughts? :?

NOTE: Like Brad mentioned....this stuff does cure hard.

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Did you forget to put that coat of epoxy on I was telling you about? :?

I haven't gotten into the epoxy as of yet with the turner and all that. I'm really disappointed that the Garco did not work.

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Some things with this coating I've noticed. 1. Like usual make sure your paint is very dry, I've noticed paint crackling when I rush the process, 2. When coating a second time, you have to make sure the 1st coat is dry, and set very well, or as the second coat cures and starts to dry, it crackles the heck out of the first coat! Seems any type of moisture on the bait makes the Garco act in reverse, drying from the inside out! not a good thing...

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Some things with this coating I've noticed. 1. Like usual make sure your paint is very dry, I've noticed paint crackling when I rush the process, 2. When coating a second time, you have to make sure the 1st coat is dry, and set very well, or as the second coat cures and starts to dry, it crackles the heck out of the first coat! Seems any type of moisture on the bait makes the Garco act in reverse, drying from the inside out! not a good thing...

I waited 5 days before I recoated that one lure. I sanded it just short of cutting through to the paint...and it still curled. I doubt seriously that I'm using that stuff anymore.

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