sallystrothers

Anyone Else Discover This About D2t?

13 posts in this topic

According to the D2T instructions, it says you can measure by weight or volume 1:1. I have been measuring by weight for an entire 256g combined bottle set and was left with an extra 22g of the clear liquid at the end. That suggests the clear liquid is 17% more dense than the yellow liquid. So in order to get a 1:1 by volume you need to measure 1:1.17 by weight. I think that might explain why I have been getting 98-99% cures where the bait is slightly sticky to the touch even after 24 hours.

Anyone else experienced this?

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I've noticed that as well although I haven't had the problems you've described.

Ben

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I measure my D2T by volume, but it's not exact. I squeeze out separate matching lines of epoxy and catalyst, and then mix them really well.

Ever since Riverman turned me on to Flexcoat syringes, I always measure all my top coat epoxy, like Et4ex, by volume, and never have a problem.

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Sally, everything I read about measuring epoxy says BY VOLUME, and I see no reason to make it more complicated. Everyone develops specific ways of doing things as they experience good and bad results. There's more than one way to do epoxy but they all include both MEASURING and MIXING well.

I have syringes but I just pour out equal size pools - it's not lab accurate but I mix a batch REALLY WELL. I think guys hurry mixing because they worry about it hardening. But inadequate mixing causes soft epoxy as often as bad measuring. I mix the heck out of D2T with a stiff plastic strip until it's milky with so many air bubbles in it. Then i mix in a FEW drops of denatured alcohol, which thins the batch enough to release bubbles and lengthen the brush time. And I don't mix up more epoxy than I can brush in 2-3 minutes, which for me usually means enough for 2, maybe 3, average size bass crankbaits.

Edited by BobP

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In my experience mixing epoxy for one lure may result in a bad mix just because my measurement is not perfect and the less you use to mix the bigger margin for error. Better for mixing for 3 or so at a time.

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Sally, everything I read about measuring epoxy says BY VOLUME, and I see no reason to make it more complicated. Everyone develops specific ways of doing things as they experience good and bad results. There's more than one way to do epoxy but they all include both MEASURING and MIXING well.

I have syringes but I just pour out equal size pools - it's not lab accurate but I mix a batch REALLY WELL. I think guys hurry mixing because they worry about it hardening. But inadequate mixing causes soft epoxy as often as bad measuring. I mix the heck out of D2T with a stiff plastic strip until it's milky with so many air bubbles in it. Then i mix in a FEW drops of denatured alcohol, which thins the batch enough to release bubbles and lengthen the brush time. And I don't mix up more epoxy than I can brush in 2-3 minutes, which for me usually means enough for 2, maybe 3, average size bass crankbaits.

I found I get more air bubbles with alcohol, I think the alcohol evaporates and makes the bubbles. My problem could be that I am working around very detailed structures and use 2-3 mixes per bait in low volumes. Having low volume, as mentioned by others, reduces the margin of error. I will try mixing it more as you suggest.

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I found the latest D2T info last year, and its 1.2 to 1, resin to hardener. I use a jewelers scale that is good to 100's of a gram. Ive been mixing batches as small as 1g-.83g in small cups (for one plug), and when I get to the end of a 9oz kit the amounts left are identical. You can get one of these battery operated scales on ebay for 20bucks. Well worth it. I used to curse this stuff because I was using the 1 to 1 ratio with a scale that was only good for tenths of a gram, and that resulted in making Lolly-Pops, mostly.

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, and that resulted in making Lolly-Pops, mostly.

Nothing worse than checking the lure turner after a good night's rest to find the lure is still tacky. I use them anyway but invariably the lure clouds up as it collects crap on the tacky surface.

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Guys, I don't get it. I have been using epoxy for so many years that I think it was what held the collar on the neck of my first pet, T-Rex. LOL

You have a catalast and a resin. Exact quantities are NOT required. It may take longer for a mix that is low on catalast (hardner) to set, but it WILL cure.

If you are getting stick baits, it is due to imporperly mixed epoxy or very old resin.

Woops, need to follow this up with IMHO.

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I haven't been using Devcon since the Jurassic like Anglinarcher, it's more like a decade for me. Squirt out 2 pools that look equal and mix them really well and it always seems to work OK. It's been years since I had a failure. That suggests that mixing well is probably more important than measuring exactly. I'm sure that doing both is preferable, but there you go...

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Count me among those who believes that thorough mixing is much more important than exact measurements.

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A clear that wont cure can be caused by insufficient mixing or using too much hardener. If you use less hardener than you are supposed to, it will just take longer to cure, but if you use too much, it will "never" fully cure. If you mix small batches using the eyeball technique, better to use less hardener than too much. At least that has been my experience.

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