mbmcdermott18

Pro Tec Vs. No Name Powder Coating Paint For Jigs

8 posts in this topic

Gentlemen,

I have been painting jigs with Pro-Tec powder paint using a fluid bed. I have gotten good results. I am about to order more paint and began looking into paint from powderbythepound.com. I paint large jigs (smallest is 4oz) so I run through a lot of powder. I notice powderbythepound.com prices are about half of what I was buying pro tec by the pound for.

Has anyone used paint from this supplier or other suppliers besides pro tec? I am looking at the neon and RAL colors specifically.

Thanks in advance for any info ya'll have to share.

Edited by mbmcdermott18

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I just started pouring my own jigs and never bought the Pro-Tec powder. i get my powder from a freind of mine that i work with that has a powder coating buisness on the side. He gets his powder from there. The only major difference I have noticed is that the different cure times of the powders some are longer, shorter, hotter, etc. He will write the cure times and temps on my containers he gives me to help me out if it is from a different supplier. It is a huge price difference.

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I've used both... as I had some powderbythepound powder leftover from my motorcycle parts and figured what the hell. The cure temps are a little different (usually a little hotter) than the Pro-Tec so this could be an issue. I used it anyway and cured at about 350 instead of the 400 and haven't had a problem... is it fully cured? Not sure... but it still works well enough for jigs I'm likely to lose.

J.

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I use both Pro-Tec and no name paints purchased off eBay. A few rules about paints - they are not all the same. Epoxy and hybrid/epoxies are not as durable as polyester and polyurethane powder paints. I don't buy anything less than polyester TGIC spec paint.

Make sure you chose an exterior paint that has a high resistance to salt spray. Should exceed 1000 hrs and most paint specs will list the paint's durability. Gloss levels are all over the place, flat to wet finish. I use 90 percent or high gloss with good results.

Cure temps, either low or high temp, should be followed for best results. Cure time starts when the item being painted has reached the cure temp internally, not when you turn the oven on.

I save a lot of money buying from eBay but about half my colors are Pro-Tec I purchase from CSI and never less than 1 lb containers. My first powder paint was Harbor Freight and it was terrible. Take the time to educate yourself on powder and liquid paints and you'll be happier with the results and save money in the process.

Let me know if I can help more.

Charlie

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Charlie Looking at the RAL line of paints by powder by the pound they seem to meet all f your guidelines aside from the gloss. Most seem to be about 85%, doesn't seem like 5% less gloss would be a problem?

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The gloss level is just the shine. I've used lower levels on flat grub jigheads for sea trout. The lower the percentage, the flatter the paint will be.

RAL, I think, is short for Ralston color chart. Each will have a number, example RAL 3009, to allow getting the same color again from that manufacturer. I've found variations from one manufacturer to the next on color even though they were labeled with the same RAL number.

Charlie

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