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Posted 01 November 2011 - 10:51 AM
I am new to hardbait making. I have now carved 2 wooden swimbaits with some moderate success. I keep seeing refernces in the Gallery section to "PVC Swimbaits" but I can't find any info when I search the Forums. Are these baits that are cast in PVC, or have they been carved from PVC? Where do you obtain these materials?
Thanks in advance.
Posted 01 November 2011 - 11:06 AM
carved from pvc... if only they had a pour-able pvc! I got mine from Menards. However, most of the big box hardware stores will have it. It's actually a pvc decking or siding material. Most of what I find has a fake wood grain; however, if you look hard enough you will find some that has a smooth surface. I think the piece I found was 1"x 4"x ~6'. Not cheap stuff... to do a house in! But the cost isn't bad for swimbaits!
I loved the action of my wood swimbaits, but after working with pvc there's no going back. I always use pvc for my master's for molds too just because it is homogeneous and carves like a dream.
Posted 01 November 2011 - 12:10 PM
Thanks for the feedback, I am off to home depot for a look.
Posted 01 November 2011 - 12:56 PM
Ask for AZEK. Their decking is the most buoyant, about the same as Poplar.
Do NOT buy Trex. It sinks like a rock.
Edited by mark poulson, 01 November 2011 - 12:56 PM.
Posted 01 November 2011 - 01:35 PM
guess I got lucky! ill take it!
Posted 01 November 2011 - 08:43 PM
Ask for PVC brick molding. It around 1"-1//4 thick if your looking for thick body material. I used some for making some crankbaits. The stuff is bouyant so I had to allow for ballast to make them neutral float or sink slowly.
Posted 04 November 2011 - 10:31 AM
I just want to thank you all for putting me onto the PVC stuff, it is a joy to work with. I managed to produce my first good working prototype (well it worked in the bath :-)). For now I decided to stick with a Lexan lipped swimbait as this seems the best option for some lure action whilst I am busy working out my process, carving, balancing and everything else. There is a lot to this swimbait making, I now understand why they charge the money they do for store bought ones.
Once I have completed it, I will post it up in the gallery.
Posted 04 November 2011 - 12:48 PM
Anybody who compains about the price of a hard swimbait have never made one..
Posted 04 November 2011 - 12:55 PM
Posted 04 November 2011 - 03:11 PM
On this Azex PVC can you plane it or will it melt from planing, and how does it turn on a lathe, good, fair or bad. Also What glue would you use to put two halves together.
Posted 05 November 2011 - 01:54 PM
Posted 06 November 2011 - 12:02 AM
I've never tried it on a lathe, but I would imagine you could turn it. Sanding with a dremel does act a little funny but I try to stay away from it but use it for roughing out a shape after whittling. As far as glue, (not trying to be a wise guy) but would guess PVC glue, the one used for the pipe should do the trick.
Posted 06 November 2011 - 07:46 AM
Yes the PVC glue works. (dummy on my part) Need a lot of venting with that glue. I will be turning down one later today to see how it works, it did ok on the plane. I will pass on what I find out about turning on the lathe.
Posted 06 November 2011 - 12:56 PM
I am by no means an expert with PVC, but would think that most woodworking tools could be used to cut or shape it as long as you didn't feed the tool so fast as to build up enough heat to start melting it.
Posted 08 November 2011 - 07:36 AM
I didn't have any problems with the PVC material, cutting, drilling, routing, turning, or hand sanding, just when I came to machine sanding, flat was good but rounding was hard to do because it took it off fast, and I do most of my sanding on a flexible drum sander and the slightest touch was needed which is easily done with basswood. So I will stick with basswood which works for me. Also it is more expensive to use.
Posted 08 November 2011 - 08:45 AM
You might find you have more control sanding if you use a flat sanding block with coarse paper to rough sand, and one with finer paper for final shaping.
A round surface, like a drum sander, puts a small surface in contact with the bait, so it cuts fast on corners and small surfaces.
I use an ocillating belt sander to do most of my PVC shaping. I change the belt from coarse (50 grit) to fine (80-100 grit) so I can limit the amount of material that's removed.
Too much pressure will melt the plastic and make it sticky, so don't use too much pressure when you're sanding.
And wear a dust mask. The sanding dust, and saw dust, is really hard on the sinuses.
I do my fine sanding with a palm sander and fine paper.
And I wet sand when I want a really smooth finish.
The PVC I use, AZEK, has a coarse grain, so the finer I sand, the smoother the initial finish.
I don't sand past 100 grit, except with the 400 grit wet sanding.
I find that for my baits the Createx paint fills in most imperfections, and the top coat takes care of the rest.
Bear in mind, I don't build to sell, and so I am not as picky as those who do need to be.
But I won't go back to wood except for small balsa and pine cranks.
PVC is totally waterproof, so water intrusion and paint/top coat failures are a thing of the past for me.
Edited by mark poulson, 08 November 2011 - 08:50 AM.
Posted 08 November 2011 - 12:19 PM
Thanks Mark I will still keep trying to get this right I like to make 15 to 20 baits at a time. I use 150 grit on my drum I think I will router the edges less and maybe that will help. Maybe I am just trying to go to fast. It is AZEK that I am using. I like the idea of the waterproof aspect of the PVC. Again thanks.
Posted 09 November 2011 - 02:56 PM
Is there a substitute for AZEK? My Lowe's store does not carry that brand. I am not sure about Home Depot.
Posted 09 November 2011 - 08:23 PM
ask them if they have pvc exterior trim . my local Lowes sells it but not under the name of Azek. make sure you are not getting vinyl trim as it is hard as a rock. you should be able to mark the cut end with your thumbnail without much problem.