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sallystrothers

Question For The Lexan Rear Fin Folks

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A problem that has developed with my 8" swimbaits is when I catch 20+ pound fish the rear fin breaks about 80% of the time. I am currently using a relatively rigid thermoplastic and have not yet tried other, more flexible plastics yet. For those using Lexan, do you observe this phenomenon? From my research, the vast majority of the strikes come at the rear 1/3 of the baitfish and I'm suspecting the more powerful jaws of a larger fish is too much for my set-up. My plastic thickness is about 3/32" which gives the best optical properties. I was hoping to avoid going thicker.

Edited by sallystrothers
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Good ideas. I think I am going to add 20-50% more to the thickness and if that doesn't work I will switch to a polycarbonate. What may exacerbate the problem is the cold water and I wonder if polycarbonate would behave the same in cold water.

My tail segment already has 180 degrees of movement so I can't add anymore. Now I see why people use the microfibetts.

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Can you post a photo? Is the lexan tail fixed to the segement or pinned? How long is the tail? What is the lexan thickness?

If your lexan is fixed to a resin segment that can rotate 180 degrees then you have a very long fulcrum that would be easy to break the tail off 3/32" thickness. If you make a thicker tail to be stronger the next weak link will be the joint itself. Need pictures to better address

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I was using the plastic dividers from a tackle box for tails. No good. Break after a while. Doing better with Lexan. What about a tail joint with 2 connections ( 2 eyescrews, 2 split rings, 2 holes in the edge of the tail). The tail will flap freely. I have one that has held up with bass. No 20 #lbers mind you.

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Can you post a photo? Is the lexan tail fixed to the segement or pinned? How long is the tail? What is the lexan thickness?

If your lexan is fixed to a resin segment that can rotate 180 degrees then you have a very long fulcrum that would be easy to break the tail off 3/32" thickness. If you make a thicker tail to be stronger the next weak link will be the joint itself. Need pictures to better address

The rear fin is is fixed and not pinned. I may actually try pinning it with a little bit of mobility. You may be right about the rotation, at full joint rotation the fin is parallel with the body of the bait facing the opposite direction. I will try to get a photo up.

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How are you attaching the tail? Is it rigid? Would making the tail hinged lessen the chances of it breaking? Just thinking out loud here.

Ben

The tail is rigid but the strange thing is that I have never broken a tail by casting or catching smaller fish. My only reservation in adding thickness is the extra weight at the rear of the bait that may tilt the balance to the rear and the swim action look unnatural.

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If I could build a lure that would consistantly catch 20 lb. fish, I wouldn't change a thing. I would just figure out a way to replace broken tails while I smiled the whole time. Musky Glenn

That is probably even a better idea! Designing for maintainability. As of now when one breaks I have to get the dremel out and chop up the bait and then it starts looking like a Frankenstein.

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The tail is rigid but the strange thing is that I have never broken a tail by casting or catching smaller fish.

It stands to reason that a larger fish is able to put much more stress on a lure than a smaller fish or even casting the lure. I was thinking that a hinged tail like what capt mike described would cut down on the amount of leverage a fish could put on the lure.

Ben

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Like Ben, just thinkin' out loud here... Would it be beneficial to build a mold and pour some type of a tail out of epoxy? You could build your hangers into the mold so they are already in the tail, and could actually be used to reinforce the tail. You could also add glitters or pigments to the epoxy to give it flash... Just a thought...bb

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