mattwv

Heavy Balsa And Hand Twisted Eyes?

6 posts in this topic

mattwv    10

First off My name is Matt and have been a long time reader just to get somewhat of a general idea on how to build my own balsa cranks. There is a ton of info in the 200 and some pages but I just wanted to get some advice before I start. I am only making these for bass fishing.

I looked back through a couple hundred pages and found that with balsa a through wire system is generally used. Does this pertain to heavy density balsa? I purchased some off the net that specified low, med, and heavy. It has a harder feel than the low as I ordered both just to get a feel of the difference.

I have read the twisting methods and think that with the heavy density, twisting the eyes would be ok. In my area a 4 pound largemouth bass is a beast and a 4 pound smallie is a giant.

I also have basswood and found that twisted eyes are fine here also. Correct?

Thanks in advance all, this is a great site and lots of info.

Matt

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BobP    805

I don't have problems with hand twisted eyes in heavy balsa. I make them at least an inch long, poke epoxy in the hole, butter the screw shank with epoxy, and push them in. I've never had one pull out while fishing. Is it as durable as thru-wire? Not if the lure is abused, but even a thru-wire won't save a balsa bait that's abused. Just never slap the bait on the water to clear weeds off the trebles. Hand twisted eyes in harder woods are never a problem.

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mattwv    10

Thank you sir, for your response.

I have and idea on a through wire deal with twisting elongated figure 8 from nose to tail and from bottom through the ballast to top. Running horizontal through vertical figure 8s and expoxy in place. I shall see how that goes. I am using .031 ss wire from stamina to bend and in these little 2 to 2 1/4 inch baits it's tough for me. I think I'd rather drill holes than cut in half.

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BobP    805

Matt, I use soft temper stainless "safety lock" wire from McMaster-Carr. It's easy to bend accurately but is still strong enough for the hook hangers and is an advantage for the line tie because it allows you to tune the bait without cracking the finish on the nose. On 2" baits and larger, the .041" soft temper ss works well. On smaller baits, I move down to .032" wire. If you look at some of the "classic" fat balsa baits, and many modern custom versions, they often use soft temper wire. The old baits typically used brass or copper but the soft ss wire is corrosion proof.

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Matt, I use soft temper stainless "safety lock" wire from McMaster-Carr. It's easy to bend accurately but is still strong enough for the hook hangers and is an advantage for the line tie because it allows you to tune the bait without cracking the finish on the nose. On 2" baits and larger, the .041" soft temper ss works well. On smaller baits, I move down to .032" wire. If you look at some of the "classic" fat balsa baits, and many modern custom versions, they often use soft temper wire. The old baits typically used brass or copper but the soft ss wire is corrosion proof.

Corrossion "resistant."

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I don't have problems with hand twisted eyes in heavy balsa. I make them at least an inch long, poke epoxy in the hole, butter the screw shank with epoxy, and push them in. I've never had one pull out while fishing. Is it as durable as thru-wire? Not if the lure is abused, but even a thru-wire won't save a balsa bait that's abused. Just never slap the bait on the water to clear weeds off the trebles. Hand twisted eyes in harder woods are never a problem.

Yea I learned the had way about slapping balsa baits on the water to clear weeds . I only takes about 2 seconds to ruin 2 weeks of work.

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