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nedyarb

Hobby Lobby 30 Minute Epoxy?

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Has anybody tried it? If so, what were the results? It looks just like Devcon. I found it in the Remote Control area, and bought it with my 40% off coupon.

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I've used it . sometimes it yellows . But that won,t matter much if you are not coating over eyes .

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Does it say (on the back at the bottom) "Dist. by Bob Smith Industries ? Is it labeled as 30 MIN.. SLOW-CURE?

If so, it is great glue, I use it a lot! However, for clear-coating I use 20 min. Finish-Cure, which is a great epoxy clear coat, and which in over 2 years of use, I have seen no yellowing whatsoever.

Important stuff to know about Bob Smith Industries or BSI epoxy:

I have no idea why the Finish-Cure is labeled as "20 MIN." which is more descriptive of its pot life, not its cure time. Like E-tex Lite, 20 MIN. Finish-Cure must be turned: Its cure time is a little faster than E-tex, which means that it takes much longer to cure than their "Slow-Cure".

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2011-12-02074619.jpg It says distributed by hobbylobby, nothing about Bob Smith.

I got a kit of that brand, but, it's 5 minute. I've used it to glue stuff around the house and it really holds.

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I'd still be surprised if it isn't BSI as they private label epoxies for many different companies, and I expect that Hobby Lobby is large enough that BSI would create about any label, or ship product in any bulk amount for labeling to them. As I said, BSI is great glue (mine is labeled as Hobbytown, where I bought it) but it will amber. I don't use it for clearcoating, but I will sometimes seal a lure with it and paint over it. If you can work yellowing into a color scheme, (it can be a nice effect) then it would work as a clear coat. But for BSI products, Finish-Coat is THE clearcoat.

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I have some of the Hobby Lobby 30 minute and so far it is working fine. I learned a long time ago that the slower the Epoxy cures the clearer and less brittle it ends up, so as me in a year or so when the test samples I made up can be compared. :drool::popcorn:

In my archery days, we discovered that 5 minute epoxy would shatter after about a year so we stopped using it to glue the inserts to the carbon arrows. On the other hand, what we called 24 hour epoxy would never yellow or get brittle.

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This subject has been talked about many times on TU.....And some of the guy's that have been doing this for a long...long time... say that for clear coating with bob smith ....that you should use the 30 min.....slow cure.... And that this product is a great clear coat......Just my two cents.....Good luck

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I have only been painting a year, so I’m by no means an expert but being recently somewhat disabled, I seem to have the time to paint a few hours each day. This is what I’ve found out about Bob Smith Industries 20 Finish Cure and their 30 Minute Slow Cure.

The 20 minute Finish Cure is much thinner than the 30 Minute Slow Cure and much easier to brush on. They are two completely different products by BSI. The 30M SC is similar to D2T and will allow you to do 3 baits. One coat comes out great. The 20M FC allows you to do about 6 baits. One coat is sufficient for complete coverage, however 2 coats gives a deeper finish and has a much better appearance. The 30M SC has a little bit harder finish. If you want a thinner coat I would use the 20M FC. I have done well over 500 baits with the 20M FC and recently tried the 30M Slow Cure Epoxy. Even though I think both products are great...........I find that 1 coat of 30M SC looks better than 2 coats of 20M FC. Both are ready for hooks in 8 hours (but a little longer is better) and both have great flow properties Just my findings......oh, and NO bubbles with either one!

At this time, I have probably equaled close to 500 baits with the 30 minute slow cure. I have settled on doing 2 baits per batch (no thinning) at my leisure. When I try to do three baits ………well I think I’m about to have an Anxiety Attack! LOL. I find the warmer the weather the easier it is to apply. I give both parts a little shot of the hea tgun(when it is below 70 degrees) before mixing and that helps. BSI claims that their 20 FC is water resistant and the 30 SC is waterproof. I’ve had baits cleared in both with one coat submerged for 24 hours with no ill effects. There isn’t any odor with either which is what I need because the lungs I have now are shot. Maybe when I get my new ones, I’ll use auto clear………..not! These are just my findings and what seems to me working for me right now. Hope I didn’t hijack this thread too much.

Richard

Edited by 152nd Street Baits

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i bought some when i started out and never liked it i know for a fact its not bob smiths i ended up giving mine away b/c i couldnt get a good finish out of it but then again it may of just been me i use bob smith 30 min slow cure and it works perfect

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I have only been painting a year, so I’m by no means an expert but being recently somewhat disabled, I seem to have the time to paint a few hours each day. This is what I’ve found out about Bob Smith Industries 20 Finish Cure and their 30 Minute Slow Cure.

The 20 minute Finish Cure is much thinner than the 30 Minute Slow Cure and much easier to brush on. They are two completely different products by BSI. The 30M SC is similar to D2T and will allow you to do 3 baits. One coat comes out great. The 20M FC allows you to do about 6 baits. One coat is sufficient for complete coverage, however 2 coats gives a deeper finish and has a much better appearance. The 30M SC has a little bit harder finish. If you want a thinner coat I would use the 20M FC. I have done well over 500 baits with the 20M FC and recently tried the 30M Slow Cure Epoxy. Even though I think both products are great...........I find that 1 coat of 30M SC looks better than 2 coats of 20M FC. Both are ready for hooks in 8 hours (but a little longer is better) and both have great flow properties Just my findings......oh, and NO bubbles with either one!

At this time, I have probably equaled close to 500 baits with the 30 minute slow cure. I have settled on doing 2 baits per batch (no thinning) at my leisure. When I try to do three baits ………well I think I’m about to have an Anxiety Attack! LOL. I find the warmer the weather the easier it is to apply. I give both parts a little shot of the hea tgun(when it is below 70 degrees) before mixing and that helps. BSI claims that their 20 FC is water resistant and the 30 SC is waterproof. I’ve had baits cleared in both with one coat submerged for 24 hours with no ill effects. There isn’t any odor with either which is what I need because the lungs I have now are shot. Maybe when I get my new ones, I’ll use auto clear………..not! These are just my findings and what seems to me working for me right now. Hope I didn’t hijack this thread too much.

Richard

Not at all. That is good stuff you wrote.

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I am kinda confused, I have tried etex and d2t, and both seem to yellow on white colors. So I saw this and figured I would try it too. I will coat a white lure tonight and see what happens. Sounds like some think its bob smith and some say not! Thanks for the tips though, I guess the best way to find out is to try it.

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Well I tried it, and I was not happy with the results. It ended up being very bumpy and a lot of air bubbles. I put it on bare wood as a sealer and on a white lure as a top coat. Will stick with etex for now.

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This subject has been talked about many times on TU.....And some of the guy's that have been doing this for a long...long time... say that for clear coating with bob smith ....that you should use the 30 min.....slow cure.... And that this product is a great clear coat......Just my two cents.....Good luck

I can see where guys who are used to Devcon would prefer the 30 minute Slow-Cure, as it is more similar to 2-ton... and Richard's observations are certainly on the money, as it and the Finish-Cure are two completely different products. It really does boil down to which characteristics suit you the best, although the Slow-Cure (which has a much shorter pot life than Finish-Cure, remember) has a tendency to yellow that I haven't seen from Finish-Cure at all. I've repainted a lot of old baits on which the epoxy had yellowed so much that the original color of the lure was a total surprise when I sanded off the epoxy, so any tendency to yellow really does put me off. That is what I don't like about E-tex, and one of the things I don't like about Devcon too.

If Shaggy says that Hobby Lobby's epoxy is definitely not BSI, I'll take his word for it. That's good to know.

Oh, BTW, DT, I'm one of the guys on here who has been using various epoxies for a long...long...time.

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BTW, does anybody know where I could buy two plastic bottles like the ones in my pic. I hate how the etex runs down the sides of the bottles.

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Nedyarb,

Try drilling a hole in the top of each bottle cap that is a snug fit for the tapered ends of these syringes, and leave them in the bottle when not it use.

When you want to mix up some epoxy, hold the syringe, turn the bottle upside down, and fill it with as much as you need.

It is virtually drip free, and you will be able to get exact proportions by volume, which is how most epoxies are supposed to be measured.

Here's a link:

http://www.flexcoat.com/products/supplies-accessories/color-coded-syringes/

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