Krylon Spray Can Finish?
15 replies to this topic
Posted 03 December 2011 - 01:06 AM
I picked this up today for a good sale price and it says Krylon Low Oder Clear Finish (Clear Latex Finish) on the can. Is this acceptable to use to seal a wooden bait used for saltwater or will is taint the bait with a smell?
Posted 03 December 2011 - 09:11 AM
I used Krylon rattle cans when I first started making wood baits, and the odor from the paint leaves pretty quickly. Let them hang for a few days in a warm place to cure out, and offgas as much solvent as possible, and you should be fine.
I have not made Krylon painted baits for the salt, so I can't say it does or doesn't make a difference there, but I doubt there's much difference.
Salt water is more corrosive than fresh, so durability might be more of an issue.
Posted 03 December 2011 - 09:48 AM
I see you live in Florida.
I live in SoCal, and most of the fish that live in the salt here have more teeth than the freshwater bass I fish for, but I've made some PVC swimbaits for the salt, for guys who fish for Calico bass.
I found the PVC holds up really will, since it's both hard and waterproof. I use an exterior polyurethane top coat over Createx paint, and, so far, they have held up fine.
I go into making saltwater baits knowing the top coat and paint will be damaged.
There is no topcoat that will hold up to a Barricuda's teeth. They even scratch steel lures, and I'm sure you have the equivilent type of fish there in Florida. So making the baits out of a material that's totally waterproof to begin with is a big advantage in terms of durability.
Posted 03 December 2011 - 11:11 AM
Mark, have you had a problem with yellowing, or, is it water-based?
Posted 03 December 2011 - 12:01 PM
I don't think latex is a good choice. The stinkier the better as far as durability is concerned.
Posted 03 December 2011 - 03:47 PM
Just to be clear from the start, I'm a hobbiest, and make baits for myself and my friends, not for commercial sale.
Having said that, here's what I use.
It's waterborne, water based, and doesn't yellow. The exterior water proof urethane is their EM9300.
It is not quite as clear as their SC (super clear) 9000 urethane, but it is a tougher film. If I use it directly over Createx, it will cause slight crackling, so I dip once in the SC9000, to protect the paint, and then twice more in the EM9300 for salt water lures.
I use their SC9000 urethane alone for my freshwater baits. It's listed as an interior urethane, but it holds up just fine to fishing the same crank all day long. A tech. at their site recommended it for use on lures.
It will soften if left for several days soaking in water or lying on a wet carpet, but hanging it and letting it dry out will harden it again.
I've had baits on my deck all day in the rain with no problems. Once it's cured, it's really tough.
Also,this is the only top coat I've found that will not dull metallic finishes, like silvers and golds.
I dip each lure three times, hitting them with the hair dryer between dips after they've tack dried, and can redip after an hour.
So I can get three coats on in two hours, let it cure for a day, and take it fishing.
I hope this helps.
Edited by mark poulson, 03 December 2011 - 03:52 PM.
Posted 03 December 2011 - 04:51 PM
Ouch, I just realized that the Krylon "melts" the Sharpie signature my son and I placed on the baits? We wanted to sharpie our last name and the lure # but when I sprayed with the Krylon the Sharpie started running like it never dried (I checked and it was dry)...any way to avoid this with the Krylon in the future? Is there a better way to "sign" the baits?
Edited by anamealreadyinuse, 03 December 2011 - 05:00 PM.
Posted 03 December 2011 - 06:46 PM
You might be better off using a slightly thinned epoxy to seal your baits. You will need a lure turner unless you want to turn them by hand until the epoxy becomes tacky enough that it won't run, sag or drip. Turning the bait allows the epoxy to self level and it gives a nice smooth finish to paint over.
I've had some bad experiences using solvent based products. A lot of times they don't play well with products that have other solvents in them as you've found out. Epoxy is a pretty safe bet because it doesn't seem to react with anything. At least in my experiences.
Posted 03 December 2011 - 10:30 PM
Acrylic Sharpies are untouchable. I've sprayed all kinds of stuff over 'em tryin' to melt 'em.
Posted 04 December 2011 - 01:29 AM
@saltshaker...is Acrylic the standard sharpie you pick up in a office supply store? This is what I got from Krylon and the basic sharpie...what am I doing wrong?
Posted 04 December 2011 - 03:08 AM
That's more than likely an oil-based marker. Acrylic is water-based. Any topcoat that you use over that Sharpie (lacquer, polyurethane, moisture cure, etc) is going to melt it.....unless the topcoat is water-based. Like I said, I've sprayed all kinds of stuff over them just to try to dissolve it....with no luck. Haven't tried water, tho.
Posted 04 December 2011 - 05:04 PM
I use a cheap calligraphy pen. They are basically a plastic stick with a fountain pen nib stuck on one end, and cost a couple of bucks at a craft store. Dip it in black Createx acrylic paint and you can make a signature that has finer lines than an Ultra Fine Sharpie - and it won't run when hit by a solvent based clearcoat.
Posted 05 December 2011 - 01:14 AM
Bob, you ever tried a toothpick?
Posted 07 December 2011 - 07:10 AM
LOL...okay, so I "marinated" the new lures in a bag of Berkeley Gulp that had a few gulps left...I'm not sure what they put in that Gulp but it did some pretty crazy stuff to the finish, kind of scary and looks like a nuclear fish or something...oh well, maybe the overwhelming gulp smell will still get a hit (I doubt it)