nedyarb

? For The Lip In Last Guys

15 posts in this topic

How do you hold your lure on the turner when drying. I have tried aligator clamps, but the etex gets stuck to them. I have tried putting a toothpick in the rear hanger, but that gets stuck too. I am getting tired of my lips looking crappy, so I figured I would put them in last. Any tips? Rob

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I clamp mine by the rear eye. The clamp is attached before painting and top coating, so that there is no further finger contact. The clamp is designed to fit the wheel, so that the wheel does not have to be stopped. I make my own clamps, but there are many ways to achieve the same, just needs a coat of thinking.

Dave

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The last batch I did I tried something different. I cut rectangles of some LDPE (low density polyethylene) and press fit them into the lip slot to keep the paint out. Nothing seems to stick to that stuff. I drilled a hole into them so I could hang them to dry which worked out nice. I glue my lips in just before top coating with epoxy.

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Buy some Xacto knives, pull the blade out and then tighten it up on your rear hook hanger. I do all of my lipless baits this way to put on the drying wheel. It will also work with crankbaits. Be sure to not put the etex on to heavy around the exacto. It gives you a little room to work without it sticking to the hookhanger. Here is a link:

http://www.xacto.com/

Edited by Big Bass Man

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I put a piece of blue painter's tape over the lip and clip the lures on the turner with alligator clips. During painting, I use Woodenfeather's method, with pieces of Lexan or circuit board - and hold the baits with clamping forceps while I paint.

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Best thing I've found is using thin wire to hold the lure in place for the top coat. Key is thin, think twist tie wire thin. Its cheap super easy to work with and come out of the epoxied hook hangers/screw eyes real easy. I also use it to hang my lures to coat hangers, just tape it down so it doesn't slide.

I've found this to be preferable over a thicker wire attache to an elastic band, those bands break and the thicker wire is a pain to get out. The thin wire comes out easy enough that I just grab the bottom hook hanger with vise grips, then put it on my aforementioned coat hanger racks, while they wait for another coat or what not.

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I use "s" hooks in my rear hook hanger and belly hanger(unless the line tie is in the nose then I connect there). I usually paint my bait and install the lip right after. Once the epoxy is set up then I can use the line tie on the lip and rear hook hanger(as pictured) when I do my top coat. If I make my line ties to small for the "s" hooks to fit then I use 19 guage ss wire "c" shaped. By the way the baits in the pics were done before I started installing my lip after paint. Hope this helps and not confuses. LOL!

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Edited by bbf

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I've tried a few different ways to deal with the diving bills. I've installed them and covered them with tape, paint and removed the tape to find that the primer ended up between the bill and the bait. Tried the paint first epoxy later, I seem to get the epoxy on the bill anyway afterwards, so I'll just try to be cleaner about the bill install. As far as the wheel, haven't made one just yet but have used the drip method. Just hang the bait so the epoxy runs to the end of the bait at the hook eye and use a small dremel brush to remove the blob off the hangers.

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I've tried using the stick or nail in the hole method of holding for epoxy BUT... Be careful sticks break and you need to drill the broken part out, nails don't break BUT... They can rip your paint/epoxy right off, luckily it ripped off cleanly and a bit of super glue did the trick. There are a few baits that just don't lend themselves to any other holding methods ex. top waters like tally whackers (metal too slick for clip to grab).

As for lipping in last, remember if you're using epoxy to seal its going to make the hold thicker and may not be completely level making the lipping step difficult, sealing with super glue solves this.

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I have 1000 or so of the clips in my method above in use at all times, and very few ever damage the topcoat once you learn how to remove them from the bait after fully cured.

My system uses inexpensive materials so that I can effectively hold the baits and be able to move and secure them during various steps in larger numbers and have lots of clips always rotating through the processes.

System uses simple wood clothes pins and short lengths of 1/16" high carbon coated gas welding rod. Material easily slips out of bait after coating, light touch on belt sander and bait is ready for rear hook hanger in pre-drilled hole.

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Ok we're a bit off topic BUT... I need to know how you're removing the pin without damaging the epoxy? I managed 3/4 without damaging the top coat, 1/4 pins (bambo skewer) got stuck inside the hole while removing 2/4 worked perfectly less the volcano buildup look. These welding rods, are you twisting them out, or using an razor to break the epoxy?

I did not try a nail and assumed damaged paint may result, the skewer was a perfect fit and I couldn't find a nail nearby that would fit snug enough (note these were 9" musky lures and none of the holes could be re-epoxied with a screw eye).

Edited by Sbaits

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It reads that the rod has some sort of coating on it and he probably twists a little and the rod slides out of the hole.

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hi all, i use .06 wire to hold my baits on the dryer. once dry you can hold the wire with plyers and just pull it out the epoxy. no damage anywhere. try it :)

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Well thanks everyone for the advise. But after experimenting with a few options I have found the best/easiest method for me is to hold the lure on a nail and paint it. Then add hangers and lip, then topcoat. I still get a little epoxy on the lip, but I need to be able to hold the lure by the lip, it just works best for me, that way. Thanks for the tips. Rob

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