Jump to content
Sticky Top Coat
7 replies to this topic
Posted 20 December 2011 - 07:37 AM
I have been using an epoxy for a topcoat, but it has been finishing slightly sticky. The only thing that I can think of is it hasn't dried enough. The recipe on the bottle says mix for two minutes and pour equal amounts from each bottle. I have followed the directions, but the lures are still sticky. The only 2 things I can think of is I am putting too much product on the lures or I am not letting it dry long enough. Any suggestions or comments. Thanks.
Posted 20 December 2011 - 09:47 AM
What brand epoxy are you using, and what type of paint are you coating?
When I've had problems with epoxy, it has been that I didn't get the volumes of the two parts correct, or I didn't mix them enough.
I cured that by using Flexcoat measuring syringes, and mixing really well. I would always have air bubbles to deal with, but heating the epoxy with a hair dryer got the bubbles to break.
Posted 20 December 2011 - 11:06 AM
Epoxy hardens through a chemical cure process, not drying, so the thickness of the coat doesn't matter. Unless you get a bad batch of epoxy (rare) or try to coat a lure that is still outgassing significant amouts of solvents from a previous finish step, soft epoxy is due either to failure to measure the components accurately or failure to mix the components enough. Of the two, failure to mix is more likely. Whatever the brand or type of epoxy, it should be sag-free within 4-5 hrs and be smooth and hard within 24 hrs. If it's still soft at 24 hrs, it will never get hard and the only fix is to apply another coat of epoxy which will harden the first coat along with itself.
I pour out visually equal pools of Devcon Two Ton and really mix the hell out of it. When finished, it's milky white from the small air bubbles I've introduced. No problem. Mix in a FEW drops of denatured alcohol to release most of the bubbles. Brushing it on the lure removes the rest.
You didn't specify the brand/type of epoxy you're using but a search on "epoxy" on this forum will lead you to tons of info on brands, methods, etc that should help resolve any issues.
Posted 20 December 2011 - 07:00 PM
Another thing to consider, when mixing by weight, use 1.10 more base than hardener. I always weigh out my hardener first, and then weight out 1.10 times more base.
Posted 20 December 2011 - 10:31 PM
I'll have to agree with Bob. The only times I've had trouble with epoxy is when it wasn't mixed thoroughly.
Posted 21 December 2011 - 04:35 AM
Yep use syringes... It is accurate and easy, mix it well and scrape the sides, flat bottom mixing cup all the basics. You don't need to worry about bubbles if you have a propane torch, the CO2 breaks the surface tension of the epoxy and lets the bubbles escape ( it is not the heat ) . Hair dryers blow dust etc onto your lure where the torch will burn it before reaching the lure .
Posted 21 December 2011 - 09:52 AM
The most accurate way to measure epoxy is syringes. I use etex, and have tried syringes, but they are a pain. I now use a digital scale and just weigh equal parts. However last night I noticed my hardener bottle is much lower than my resin bottle. But, all my lures have been getting a hard clear coat so I will keep doing it this way. And live with a littleextra resin. Rob
Posted 21 December 2011 - 01:54 PM
Someone here on TU, I think it was Jed, suggested drilling a tight hole in the tops of the component bottles, and leaving the syringes in there all the time. The Flexcoat tips are slightly tapered, so you can get a snug fit.
Then, when you want to mix up some epoxy, hold the syringe in, turn the bottle upside down, and draw down the plunger until you have what you want. It is easy.
Turn the bottle right side up, remove the syringe, and squirt it into a mixing cup.
Then put the syringe back into the bottle top, and it's sealed and ready for storage.
It works for me, and having the correct ratio, by volume, has eliminated bad batches for me.
Edited by mark poulson, 21 December 2011 - 01:56 PM.