Automotive Clear Coat
17 replies to this topic
Posted 22 December 2011 - 05:17 PM
I see alot of guys talking about automotive clear coats on here and i'm still clueless on how to use them. I've been painting my own wiggle warts and just switched to jerk baits. i have some of the Megabass blanks from bustinbassbaits.com and have painted some up but afraid to clear coat over them. On my wiggle warts or other crankbaits i've been using D2T and it works just fine. i want to put a thinner epoxy on the suspending jerkbaits so they don't sink. I was gonna go to O'Reilly's and buy some automotive clear coat but do i just spread it on with a brush or a spray can? Do i use multiple coats? Do i have to sand after the first coat? Sorry if i sound dumb but the D2T was all i knew about and i'm still new at this whole painting thing
Posted 22 December 2011 - 05:52 PM
I don't have experience with auto clear but I do with those blanks. With D2T, BSI 20 Minute Finish Cure, or BSI 30 Minute Slow Cure Epoxy and #5 2x strong Eagle Claw hooks the 95 or 110 blanks will rise very slowly. #6 triple grips slightly faster but I think those hooks are a bit small. Try one with the D2T. I think you will be pleasantly surpised!
Posted 22 December 2011 - 06:17 PM
Have you read this thread on spraying auto clear? It covers quite a few different topics about spraying auto clear. And don't forget about dealing with the harmful vapors of the auto clears. It's not something you'll want to spray inside unless you have a paint booth set up with an air filtration system to catch the vapors.
Posted 22 December 2011 - 06:24 PM
The world of automotive clear is another whole place. There are one part (1K) clears, two parts (clear and activator-2K) and even some 3 part (clear, activator and reducer). Check out SprayMax web site and other suppliers like PPG, Dupont, House of Kolors for more information.
This stuff can get pricey and there are many different characteristics depending on the manufacturer- yes you can get a small spray can of 2 part such as Spray Max but its pot life once activated is 24 hours which means you need to have enough baits ready for clear otherwise it set up in the can. A gallon of one kind clear I checked out was over $100. Then add the activator. Some are available in quarts for $30 - $50.
Also you understand that you should use good ventilation and use a hydrocarbon filter mask when spraying urethace base finishes. READ THE MSDS (material safety data sheets) for the products your using. You don't want to find out that the spraying you did without proper personel protection (and not a paper dust mask) later comes back to hurt your lungs or develope respitory issues.
Use google and forums search for automotive clear coat and read all the info including technical data sheets. Some guys use it and others use different finishes like E-tex to get thinner coats. Like I said its another whole world. Suggest reading up somemore about it. Don't mean to discourage but want to point out some things to consider before jumping into real automotive clear coats.
Posted 22 December 2011 - 06:40 PM
I can get this in rattle cans down the auto store, can I use this? Or do I have to go down the road of spray guns, 2/3 parts, ect...?
Posted 22 December 2011 - 08:09 PM
Ben turned me on to the Dupont auto clear. He even told me which gun to get to spray it. I coated some reels that I painted and it did just fine. Lays down smooth with a super glossy finish. That smell is really bad, tho.
Posted 22 December 2011 - 09:18 PM
I bought the Oreileys dupont automotive clear last week. It was horrble, way too soft, I would stick with d2t.
Posted 22 December 2011 - 09:32 PM
The stuff I used is Chroma Premier. I promise you......it is not "soft". I guess there are different lines of products for every manufacturer. A body shop buddy told me he has never had any issues with it.
Posted 22 December 2011 - 11:42 PM
i started using a ppg auto clear (shop line) and absolutely love it - its a 2:1 clear (2 parts clear :1 part activator). Im spraying it at home and am using my gravity feed eclipse (.5 tip) to spray it with no problems for the small number i clear at a time (up to 15). i did get a good organic vapor mask to spray in and i use gloves as well for protection. i normally spray 3-4 coats on mine with no sanding or anything but a flash time in between coats. leaves a super thin and briliant shine to the lures adn really makes pearls, metallics, and flakes Plaster of Paris, especially in the sunlight. i have a dedicated "big mouth" bottle i use with it and i normally use 12 tsp total clear/activator for 15 lures at 3-4 coats each so it goes pretty far for your money IMO. i am very careful with it and always use my mask and gloves as well as make sure nobody (or my dog) is around me wwhen i spray and clean my airbrush immediatly and thoroughly when im done to protect it from ruin. i just have a 2x4 with clothes pins d2t'ed to it for a spray/dry rack and when im done spraying them i put them in my spare bathroom on the counter and set a electric space heater on the floor and leave it running over nite to "bake" the clear coat and help it finsih curing. i live alone so i have that luxury -lol
Posted 23 December 2011 - 08:28 AM
2:1 PPG auto clear off-gassing in front of an electric space heater, WOW, life on the edge! Do as suggested and read proper safety concerns before you blow yourself up, or worse yet someone else imitating your set-up. REALLY!!!
Posted 23 December 2011 - 08:47 AM
The risks from inhaled fumes are not limited to lung damage.
Years ago I sprayed a wood preservative without a spray mask, and inhaled some of the fumes.
The chemicals in it lowered my blood/brain barrier, and allowed a virus to attack my spinal cord.
I wound up with permanent nerve damage.
So don't take these risks lightly.
Posted 23 December 2011 - 10:18 AM
i forgot to add that i do have the exhaust fan running during this and when i remodeled my bathroom i vented it to the outside instead of just the attic like most
Posted 23 December 2011 - 11:53 AM
I,m sorry but a bathroom exhaust fan is just another possible source of ignition. And I quote, "Turn off stoves, heaters, electrical motors, and other sources of ignition during use and until all vapors/odors are gone." Do what you will but be STRONGLY advised of the EXPLOSIVE situation you are creating.
Posted 23 December 2011 - 12:18 PM
Kitchen hood exhaust motors are typically explosion proof, so they don't start grease fires. Bath fan motors are not.
Posted 30 December 2011 - 10:48 AM
I have been using acme auto clear from napa. 4:1 with hardner. I first started top coating with devcon 2t, thinned with da, but switched to auto clear. I spray mine with a hvlp mini gun, and love it. I can clear 5 times as many baits in 1/2 the time. auto clear is a much thinner and clearer top coat. For the time and money, you can't beat auto clear. I just open my garage door and put a fan behind me, and spray.
Posted 30 December 2011 - 11:59 AM
Shooting auto clear with the garage door open with a fan behind is suicide on the installment plan. I hope you are not recommending that others do this.
Posted 31 December 2011 - 09:52 AM
The fan blows the overspray outside, better than any exhaust fan.
Posted 01 January 2012 - 12:01 AM
Gordon, unfortunately, the durability of auto clearcoats seems to be directly related to their toxicity and requirement for a separate hardener. Only you can judge whether a one part rattle can clearcoat is durable enough for your lures - but I've never found one that was.