twbass

Thinning Devcon Epoxy?

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Has anyone tried thinning the 30 minute 2 ton devcon? If so what did you do. Thanks twbass

Edited by twbass

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Most people here that thin D2T use denatured alchol. I have used lacquer thinner in the past to thin it to shoot thru an airbrush as a clearcoat but you can't touch the bait until the D2T has cured or you'll ruin the paint job.

Gene

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I use denatured alcohol. Just a few drops is enough to extend the brush time by a couple of minutes and the epoxy will still harden "on schedule".

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I was told by an epoxy tech. tost be sure to mix the two parts completely before you add the alcohol. Otherwise, the alcohol will bond to one part of the epoxy, instead of the two parts bonding to each other, and the mix won't set up properly.

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I mix my epoxy with a few drops of denatured alcohol like Mark described and have had no problems.

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I have added the denatured alcohol prior to mixing thoroughly and had some problems with the epoxy fully curing in small spots. Not 100% sure that was the culprit, but it's all I could put my finger on.

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Never had any issue with adding solvent prior to mixing devcon. This has always been to coat molds however. Never added to coat crank.

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I have tried before and after mixing . Worked for me both ways. I have to say though, why take a chance in messing up the chemistry if you do not have to? The only reason I sometimes have thinned before mixing the epoxy was to aid in mixing because the epoxy was cold. Once thinned a little it mixed easily even cold.

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I also use denatured alcohol, and have been for years. 1 small to medium size bait = dime to nickel size epoxy parts and 4 - 6 drops of d.a. One thing I like about d.a. besides extending working time is that I can thin a mixed batch to achieve a thinner finish coat, which I prefer on many of the newer jerk baits that have molded scales, fins, etc. Not quite as durable but lighter in weight for such finely tuned (neutral buoyancy) out of the package baits.

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