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Devcon Worming Problem
16 replies to this topic
Posted 07 January 2012 - 08:05 PM
Quick question to the people that use devcon for top coat, have you guys had issues with the coat coming together and creating a clumps, im using a lure spinner to dry my lures. First time using devcon ive been using etex and that stuff evens out perfectly every time ive used it. I wanted a harder finish but didnt think this would happen. How can i avoid this.
Posted 07 January 2012 - 08:15 PM
It could be a couple of things, incomplete mixing or old epoxy. If you have used ETEX then I dont think it is mixing as if it was you would have had problems with ETEX. The other thing it could be is contamination from the oils on your hands being transferred to whatever you are topcoating.
Posted 07 January 2012 - 08:31 PM
When you say "clumps" are you talking about the epoxy sagging and leaving a high spot in the finish? If so you may be trying to put it on too thick. But I doubt this if you've been using Etex and not having any problems. Like Blackjack said you may have gotten a bad, or old, batch of epoxy.
Posted 07 January 2012 - 10:51 PM
I did thin it out with denature alchohol so i dont know if this is the problem. And yeah my lure now has small craters. As it dried i tried brushing it smooth and though it did help some spots have these craters. Etex has never let me down just wish it was harder. Im not giving up on d2t i like the hard tough shell it provides. I guess i need more practice.
Posted 07 January 2012 - 11:17 PM
If you have craters, or something like holes, and going over it again does not fix it more than likely there is a oil or contaminate in those spots. Try letting it dry completely, then sand any high spots and wipe down well with alcohol, then recoat.
Posted 07 January 2012 - 11:40 PM
If this is the first time you have used 2-ton and your used to brushing etex your probably trying to make it too thin. 2-ton is thicker and cutting w/alcohol will make the problem worse. If you brush to hard the brush will actually pull the epoxy off and leave brush strokes. Most will fill in but some marks will leave potholes. I'm guessing the clumps are from brushing it too long. Ya got to get 2-ton on there quick. Try one w/o the alcohol and see it it works better for ya....
Posted 08 January 2012 - 09:09 AM
+1 you really need to "load" up the brush and let it flow off.
Posted 08 January 2012 - 04:29 PM
Thanks guys, good advice all around. I now think i may have thinned it a bit too much. Next time i will not use DA and not handle the lure to avoid getting any oils on them. Thanks again.
Posted 08 January 2012 - 07:37 PM
I've used quite a bit of D2T and thinned it with DA. However when mixing up enough D2T to do just one bait I only add a couple drops of DA. I quit using Devcon here a while back and started using Bob Smith epoxy. I like it much better. It seems to have a little longer working time and the bubbles are easier to get rid of. I should also say that I don't use epoxy as a top coat. Only the seal coat. But the way I see it the application issues are the same for a seal coat as they are a top coat. I also use a quality artists brush to apply it. Since switching to a natural hair artists brush I can put on a coat of epoxy that is slick as a babies bottom. And if properly cleaned and taken care of they will last a long, long time.
Posted 08 January 2012 - 08:48 PM
great advice from all. I use D2T exclusively. Both for sealing and topcoat. The craters are fisheyes caused by oils from fingers or other. Make sure the epoxy is warmed a little. Mix slowly. I brush it on thick and firmly to burst the bubbles. Brush it on in a spiral fashion. Then, slowly brush from head to tail. Quickly work a butane lighter over the bait-one time. Warming the epoxy with a heat gun will eliminate thinning. Work quickly!
D2T is mixed 1.2 to 1. I use a jewelers scale that will measure in hundredths of a gram. 25$ well spent.
Posted 08 January 2012 - 09:44 PM
This time of year, it's impossible to brush D2T if you work in the garage like I do. I mix the epoxy and then mix in denatured alcohol a few drops at a time until it thins to the consistency of slightly warm honey. I don't warm it before or after. The DA approximately doubles the brush time. I haven't had trouble with fish-eyes/pot holes doing this. I think there is a little art in getting a good coat of D2T because the brush time is limited. Your brush has to contact all surfaces on the lure as you apply it but you don't want to over-brush it.
I'm ??? about trading Etex for D2T to get a harder topcoat. I like D2T for its one coat speed and work properties but don't feel it's harder when cured.
Posted 10 January 2012 - 03:03 AM
Mr. Ben of Rayburn gave me a lil hint a while back about applying epoxy. He said to exhale for a few seconds onto the bait after the coat is applied. I sure can tell the difference between now and before. For one thing...my coats are clearer. Before, they were kinda cloudy...I guess from air bubbles. Anyway, it works for me.
Since we're on the subject....what type of businesses carry denatured alcohol...hardware, paint, grocery? Also, where can I get one of them scales that Mark mentioned, or, is it really necessary? Although I've gotten better at applying epoxy....I'm still a little nervous about my measuring technique.
Posted 10 January 2012 - 08:29 AM
Denatured alcohol can be found at hardware stores, auto parts stores that cater to body repair shops, paint supply stores or any of your "big box" home improvement stores.
The scales can be found for a good price on Ebay. D2T and Etex are designed to be mixed by volume at a ratio of 1:1 so you don't necessarily need a scale. When mixing by weight the ratio is a tad bit different. Something like 1.1:1 or 1.2:1. I weigh mine in equal parts and only mix up small amounts at a time. I've not had any problems with either the hardness or clarity of the epoxy doing it this way. Notice I said "small amounts". When mixing in greater quantities the error will be compounded and could result in some sort of failure.
And I think I told you to exhale onto the epoxy after it was mixed, but still in the mixing cup. Or whatever you use to mix your epoxy in. The combination of carbon dioxide and warmth of your breath is what bursts the bubbles and this is better captured in some sort of container than it would be on a top coated lure. But if the way your doing it is working then who am I to argue with success?
Edited by RayburnGuy, 10 January 2012 - 08:32 AM.
Posted 10 January 2012 - 10:07 AM
I bought a digital scale at harbor freight for 8$. It has made a huge difference in the topcoat.
Posted 11 January 2012 - 12:39 AM
Same one i use, really handy to have not just for epoxy ratios either.
Posted 11 January 2012 - 09:18 PM
something that helped me with the fish-eye problem more than anything is wearing latex POWDER FREE gloves. From the time that the lures are sealed (w/ propionate in my case) I start wearing gloves and wipe down each lure w/ DA before painting to remove any oils. I wear gloves for all handling until the lure is 100% cured w/ clear coat. I haven't had any fish eye problems since.