PhillyStriper

Swimbait Hardware Question

10 posts in this topic

Iv been gearing up to start building my own swimbaits and I'm looking for some help choosing hardware to order online. I'm looking for stainless wire for making my joints and without being able to feel the wire before hand, does anyone have any suggestions on a gauge wire to buy that's not impossible to twist and not gonna come apart on me? And maybe A good place to order it from? I need a bunch of diffrent hardware for mold pouring and then it'll be replaced by a full threw wire after the molds made. Any help would be appricated.

Thanks

Jon

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The first place that comes to mind, for a place that has wire in stock, is a welding supply business. Just pick and choose what you like. Musky Glenn

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I buy my wire online at McMaster-Carr. You can get a variety of stainless steel wire in either strips or coil. You can also get lead for ballasts and other item here.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

what about a wire leader instead of hard wire ? it flexes and you can put a few beads between the joints so it would swim? just a thought

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I get my wire from work. When a spool of stainless runs out I have to pull out a good 8ft strip out the lead and usually would throw it away. It's .035 stainless 316 wire. I have also get a few short tig wires that work for various things. They are a bit thicker and a lower grade at 308 but still work fine for twisted hook hangers. I've tried the stainless leader wire, flexible yes, but the only part that will be doing the flexing is the small portion between your bait sections. That usually isn't very long and those short bits don't flex much on there own. The few swimbaits I've made with stainless leader wire I had to put a lip on them to make the head jerk from side to side. The tail end just follows with the motion. Maybe use a lighter leader and have larger spaces but I still think you will need a lip to get the swimming action.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I wouldn't use steel wire, it will rust. There are many different grades of stainless welding wire you could use, the 316l is what I use the most. Only because it's more available to me. With this wire I have no rust problems.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Has anyone ever tryed sculptors clay for a prototype? I'm not gonna be casting it or getting it wet, maybe just making a mold from it.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Has anyone ever tryed sculptors clay for a prototype? I'm not gonna be casting it or getting it wet, maybe just making a mold from it.

Type "Sculpey" into the site search feature, and you should get some answers.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I started with Malin Hard Wire #12 .029" dia (190 lb test) stainless leader wire, carried by various sporting goods stores. It has a small diameter but I've never had it break. Any hard temper stainless wire in that diameter range is easy to twist and will get the job done. "Not impossible to twist" is sort of a spongey target to shoot for but lately, I've been using .031" dia hard temper stainless wire from McMaster-Carr. It's easy to twist on a bench vise, holding it with Vise-Grip pliers. Of course, the wire diameter depends on what kind of swimbait joint you plan to use. With screw-eye inside screw-eye joints, you can use smaller diameter wire. If you plan on a hinge-pin-through-2-screw-eyes joint, you may want a larger diameter wire so the hinge pin is more rigid.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!


Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.


Sign In Now