9 replies to this topic

[Outlaw Lures]

I pour my flipping and football jigs in the winter months (before the season hits). I was having problems getting a good cast so before I close up the mold for the pour I started passing my torch over the cavity, hook, and weed guard insert pin to heat them up to make sure I get a quality cast. I just started using this process however I am worried about weakening my hooks. At what point do they these heavier hooks their temper? I know there is no way to gauge heat or breaking point other than good old experience and gut feel. Any thoughts?

[Basseducer]

I do this all the time. As long as you don't hold the torch too close or get the hook red hot you should be fine. Just don't heat past the end of the cavity and that part of the hook will be withing the lead casting.

[Outlaw Lures]

Oops.. I got my hooks red hot at times but only for a short time and it was inside the cavity. They were heavy wire flipping hooks so hopefully no major harm done. Thanks for the insight!

[Basseducer]

That is not so critical as long as it is within the cavity. When a hook looses it's temper is becomes very easy to bend.The lead around the weakened part helps support it and keeps it from bending. I have never had a hook break inside the head and pull out, but there isn't any need to make them glow.

[Painter1]

I do some fireproofing work on industrial steel structures and have learned a few things from structural engineers over the years. The nickel and carbon content of the alloy are important factors in steel failure related to heat.

The temperatures that are commonly talked about in our industry are related to 50% loss of structural integrity and the temperatures start at about 500C to 975C. Prolonged exposure is also an issue.

I doubt you got the hook that hot with a common torch. I hope that helps

[sdsaw]

From what I know about annealing heat treated steel, it will start to lose it's heat treat when it starts to glow a dull red. Full annealing when you get it bright red then let it cool without quenching in water or oil. It will then be more pliable without breaking

[pirkfan]

I use a hot air gun to heat mold cavities when too cold to get a good pour. It's not going to get hot enough to damage either the hook or mold, and after a pour or two, I just heat the hook with the gun before placing in the mold, because the mold cavity is hot enough

[RAWJigs]

I was wondering the same thing due to being cold right now I am not getting complete pours in my arky mold. I will have to try this.

[Outlaw Lures]

Raw Jigs,

It was a night and day difference! I pour Brush Jigs which are kind of tricky and I generally have 3-5 bad pours per cavity before they started to work right...or I would have to pour too quickly and I would experience spills etc (I use a hot pot). I'd tried smoking my molds or putting a small piece of foil or masking tape on the inside face of the mold so it wouldn't close too tightly (I thought maybe the mold was trapping air and not letting the lead flow). These helped but I still wasn't getting the desired results. Heating the hook and cavity with a torch was a game changer for me. After the mold was heated up enough from a few pours all I had to do was close the mold and shot the torch into the cavity for 3-4 seconds. Result: I was able to slow down my pour and I had zero bad pours when doing this...

[Outlaw Lures]

One safey note...I noticed when I first started heating a single cavity and the rest of the mold was still cold a minute amount of moisture formed from the cold metal heating so quickly. When I say minute it was no more than the fog that appears on a mirror when you breath on it! On the first pour the lead popped and shot out the cavity it was not cool at all! i just about dropped my hot pot and I had a good size spill. Luckily I had my gloves and safety glasses on. Moral-heat the entire mold and if you see any moisture form keep heating till it is absolutely gone!