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Spraying Clear Coat
7 replies to this topic
Posted 31 January 2012 - 02:42 PM
I'm starting a new topic on this from another thread.
My original question was regarding if Auto clear top coats were thinner, more like factory, store bought baits finishes than epoxy's like D2T and Bob Smith which I have been using now. I was looking for a thinner, yet hard top coat. I have no experience with auto clear or DN at this point. I've read nearly every post on this site for the past 2 years and am aware of the issues with all of the top coats most of us use. I am just a hobby painter at this point, doing somewhere between 50 to 75 baits a year for friends and acquaintences. Not doing this for a business.
I asked if this vented spray booth , (ebay) provided the vent tube was extended and exhausted to the outside, would this provide adequate ventalation for the fumes that come with auto clear. My shop is in a room in the back of my basement, in the house. Specs on this say it will move 3 cubic meters per minute.
Bob P, thanks for the info on the other thread. I was aware that auto clear fumes were toxic and needed to be handled with care, but thanks for your mention that they are also flammable. My workshop is also my hot water heater and heat pump furnace room as well. Sooooo, I probably better not mess with auto clear just a few feet from those.
That said, Ben (RayburnGuy), thanks for your detailed response in the other thread. Your comment about spraying DN got my attention. So question for either you or Bob (or anyone else for that matter), is are DN fumes also flammable, like auto clear? If so, that will settle the issue for me and I'll stick with D2T and Bob Smith epoxy. But if not, or not as much, I could use the "tap the can" method into the airbrush cup and spray directly into the pictured spray booth vented outside? Do you think that work? Again, the specs on that particular vent say it will move 3 cubic meters per minute.
So to summarize, do those of you familiar with DN believe that if I used "tap the can" directly into the airbrush cup and sprayed my lures into the pictured vented booth, which would be vented to the outside of the house, if that were YOUR set up, and YOUR shop had a hot water heater and furnace a few feet away, would you be comfortable with that setup? I'm not looking to take any chances here, I just have no experience with DN and am looking for my options.
Again, thanks to all who post here!
Posted 31 January 2012 - 04:45 PM
I was reading about this vent system on the link you posted and it said not to use it with flammable or explosive paints...I don't know if you saw that or not...Nathan
Posted 31 January 2012 - 05:22 PM
Nathan answered that question for you Jeff. Even if you were to find an explosion proof air filtration system you would still be in close proximity to your furnace and water heater. And I think I remember reading somewhere that DN had some acetone in it so it would be considered flammable as well. If you still wanted to spray your clear coat you could always do like I'm doing and spray outside as long as your not building large quantities of lures at a time. If your building baits for sale then you really need a designated area with proper ventillation and air filtration with no open flames close by.
Posted 31 January 2012 - 08:10 PM
And wear a solvent-rated respirator. Check what solvent your clear coat has, and be sure the filter is rated for that solvent.
Some of those solvents are really nasty.
Posted 31 January 2012 - 08:39 PM
Marks right. You need a respirator that's rated for organic vapors if memory serves me correctly. That rating is about as high as cartridge filters go. From there it goes to closed suit with either a backpack air supply or a remote air supply carried by hoses.
Posted 01 February 2012 - 12:56 AM
What about using one of those breathin' contraptions that people wear when sleepin'?
Posted 01 February 2012 - 08:07 AM
I think you should call the manuf. of whatever clear coat you're using, and ask them. They all have technical support on their websites, to answer this kind of question, and help people avoid problems with their products.
They are in the business of selling coatings, and killing their customers cuts way down on repeat business. Hahaha
Posted 01 February 2012 - 11:33 AM
Thanks to all for the replies, good stuff!
I think using Auto clear is off the table for me due to the toxic/flammable properties, given that my shop is in the basement next to furnace/water heater. However I still have some questions on Dick Nites. How would you guys rate it compared to auto clear in terms of fumes as bad or not as much? Is it a known carcinogen too? Is it as flammable as auto clear, or just to a lesser degree? I have read some guys using it (dipping) in their house and getting along OK, so just wondering if used in small amounts it's OK, or not so much? Opinions from those who've used it are much appreciated!!