Questions On Types Of Color And Eyes To Use
Started by
Bixie
, Feb 02 2012 10:31 PM
10 replies to this topic
#1Posted 02 February 2012 - 10:31 PM
Hello,
I'm currently looking to get into this hobby and have been reading a lot ... especially on this website. Anyway, I want to do this not only to restore older lures but to repaint new ones. Lures like the Rapala Team Esko are no longer being offered in the U.S. and want to try and improve some of their colors - I do have a contact in Germany to get more, but the price is a lot higher now. Anyway, I understand the concepts of the different types of colors, but are they all necessary? I'm going to use Createx colors in the pearl, transparent, and opaque options ... only black and white opaques. In the Auto-Air colors I plan to use the metallic and other pearl options. Why would one need to use iridescent or wicked when you have these others? Next, looking for eyes that replicate the rapala eyes (gold w/black pupil) that are not 3D. I found some awesome 3D ones by Boss, but I'm worried they will affect the action on smaller stick type cranks such as the esko. I know this is overkill ... lastly, what color red is everyone using for gills? Thinking of using pearl red??? Anyway would appreciate anyone's help who is willing. Just a last note, if and when some of these color recipes turn out - I will post them. I think it's cool that there are those of you willing to do so, especially for ROOKS like me to view. Thanks, Chad! #2Posted 03 February 2012 - 02:40 AM
Paint is paint for the most part, but some do spray better than others. For instance auto air or wicked will spray better out of the bottle than regular createx. I personally like black auto air but prefer white createx over the auto air white. Createx gold is harder to spray and control than auto air gold but has better coverage. And auto air gold will go bad on you if ya don't shake the bottle on a regular basis. The brown wicked colors can't be matched for things like craw baits. So ya can't just limit yourself to one or two series of paints. Pick the colors you think you will use the most (regardless of brand) and go from there...
PS Waco gill red or deep red createx for gills. #3Posted 03 February 2012 - 02:39 PM
Gunnie3035,
Thanks! You are right - I called TCB Global and they're saying to use more of the wicked and auto-air as possible because they are made to flow better. But even the guy said to go more by color than anything (you can use reducers). Looked at the prices on the wicked paints and they are quite a bit higher. I'll use whatever color I need within the Createx colors. #4Posted 04 February 2012 - 12:19 AM
I use createx. If I am looking for a specific color I mix it. Aside from white I dont use "stock" colors. Even black is mixed. I use a homemade reducer to thin all. Just dont limit yourself to what the manufacture carries.
#5Posted 04 February 2012 - 09:57 AM
what is your homemade reducer made of? minnow
#6Posted 04 February 2012 - 10:52 AM #7Posted 04 February 2012 - 12:31 PM
recipe for reducer...
60% future floor wax for tile floors(i use the dollar store brand) 40% distilled water 4 to 6 drops of glycerin liquid form (you can buy it at cvs stores ) make it in 4 oz bottle mix 50/50 with paint this is what I use and it works well for me I also use foke art paint from art store its all water based paint Edited by crankpaint, 04 February 2012 - 12:38 PM. #8Posted 04 February 2012 - 09:48 PM
Thanks guys - just got back from hobby lobby with various items. Picked up some aluminum mesh for scales along with veil. Has anyone tried the aluminum yet? They only had 2 sizes of veil and the larger doesn't look that great. Of note I bought some plaster cloth wrap and it looks like it'll work awesome for painting small dots and bars for bluegill and perch patterns. Thanks Arkie - the post is helpful.
#9Posted 05 February 2012 - 12:31 PM
Have not tried the aluminum mesh, I can see a scratch problem rising up. The veil material, tulle (pronounced "tool") works great with clothes pins.
#10Posted 07 February 2012 - 12:23 PM
I wouldn't worry too much about 3d eyes affecting the action. I never have liked Rapala eyes. I would just drill the eye sockets a little deeper so the eye is nearly flush when installed.
#11Posted 08 February 2012 - 11:58 PM
The eye sticking out will not effect the action.. or as BILL DANCE WOULD SAY!!!
It just aint so.... Your lip and eye tie placement is 90 percent of the action of the bait. Flat baits are easier to make have a tight wobble.. Round baits are harder.. the eye sticking out might give off a different vib in the water than one not sticking out.. but heck who knows.. it might tick off the fish better. or it might not...or it might.. but leave it to a fisherman to over think something. Good luck |






