Where Can I Learn To Make Through Wire Crankbaits
12 replies to this topic
Posted 09 March 2012 - 10:45 PM
I have been toiling with through wire construction, without much success. Where can I learn to do this? Is anyone willing to throw me a bone? When do I cut the lure? How do you cut the lure?(coping saw, band saw, scroll saw...)
How do I put the ballast in, and keep the bait level? I understand I may have to learn this on my own, but if any one is willing to help, I would greatly appreciate it. Whenever I get to where I have tips to offer, I will be happy to do it. I have most of the tools I need except a band saw, but I will have one soon.
Posted 09 March 2012 - 11:43 PM
Any particular reason that you are set on using a thru wire harness? Basic answer to your question, cut the blank and lip slot first. Next split the blank in half down the middle. Build your wire harness and ballast weight to fit the body style. You may have to dig out a little channel to fit the wire and ballast. Place the harness and epoxy both halves together making a sandwich with the wire harness as the meat.
It's much easier to use twisted wire hangers.
Posted 10 March 2012 - 12:33 AM
I like the look of through wire better than the screw in hangers and line tie
Posted 10 March 2012 - 08:58 AM
The twisted wire hangers Benton is talking about are hand made from ss wire. In my opinion have a better look than standard screw in eyes. They are not as bulky looking. Also to make a good harness take a 1X6(for illustration) and draw your bait on it. Draw where your ballast will be and where you want the rear hook hanger and line tie. Drill holes(dont have to be completely through) where the line tie and hook hanger loops will be. I use old drill bits to fit the holes(tighter fit the better). I start with the rear hook hanger first, I start my wire about an inch inside the bait loop it around the bit. Then I hold the wire with pliers and pull the wire tight(with another pair of pliers) and loop it around the front bit and cut off any excess wire. When I build through wire baits my harness is just for rear hook hanger and line tie. I do my ballast and belly hanger as one and its seperate from the harness. As Benton said cut the blank then lip slot and then split it. I take a dremel and groove my blanks where the harness is going, so when I glue my halves back together there is no gaps between the two. Once the epoxy is dry then I drill my ballast hole. It needs to be as centered as possible(side to side). At this point is when I start to shape my bait. Sorry for being long winded and hope this helps and not confuses. Lol! The more you try and build the quicker the learning curve. Do it to have fun and not with the mind of making money. Cause in my opinion there is not a price you can put on a well made hand built bait that catches fish.
Posted 10 March 2012 - 12:51 PM
There are lots of variations but this is how I do it, when I do it (balsa baits only).
1. Cut out the basic lure shape and sand down one side until the maximum width of the blank equals the finished bait width (use a compass to scribe the max width).
2. Cut the lip slot while the bait is still "square"
3. Measure and scribe a centerline longitudinally around the bait with a compass. Do it from both sides so you will be certain it is on the centerline of the bait.
4. Measure and draw the head and tail taper lines on the top and bottom of the bait, then sand them down to the lines.
5. Round over and bring the bait to final shape. Do not sand off the centerline.
6. Cut the bait in half along the centerline and insert the thru-wire frame and ballast. I trace the thru-wire with a Sharpie and then make a depression in the balsa with a nail set so the thru wire frame and ballast fit inside the bait and the halves fit neatly together again, without pressure.
7. Coat both halves with 5 minute epoxy, lay in the hardware frame and join the halves. Wipe off any squeeze-out epoxy with lacquer thinner (including inside the lip slot!)
8. Use a little spackling compound on the bait's seam to make it disappear, sand it smooth.
9. Undercoat the bait with slow cure epoxy (Devcon Two Ton), paint it, glue in the lip, and topcoat the bait.
Posted 10 March 2012 - 06:40 PM
You really need to read this thread. I asked on StripersOnline as they use big baits for big fish. Most guys here know more about lure building, but don't do a lot of big baits. The Saltwater fisher man are the experts on through wiring.
This guy posted this pic and it shows lining a board with a pin up with a rod setup in the drill chuck. Then you use a center punch to dent where to want the wire to come in and out on the plug. Set the one dent on the pin, replace the rod with a 1/8" drill bit and drill the top. Flip the lure and set the drilled top on the pin and drill the bottom. Then use a longer 1/8" drill bit in a hand drill to connect the two holes if the plug is long. I was killing myself until I asked the experts on StripersOnline.
Edited by archeryrob, 10 March 2012 - 06:41 PM.
Posted 10 March 2012 - 06:48 PM
Here is pictures for like BobP said.
2 poplar halves light glued together and drilled/gouged for the wire.
The inside before the light gluing
After sanding on the belt sander and using a round ball rasp on the face
The popped back open, remember very lightly glued. Insert the wire, tail weight and BB's to make the wood lure rattle.
Posted 10 March 2012 - 07:08 PM
One way to through wire. For freshwater I double the loop in the front small. Push the wire though and catch the middle hook hanger. Then make a loop in the back and pull it back tight and then enlarge the front loop. It takes a bit of practice to do this and have it even.
Finished with epoxy and wood filler. Then drill for belly weight if you are making a diver or want it weighted. Only need for types of plugs, or how you want it to rest, sink, or float.
I don't have pics on this, but imagine a rattle trap with the wire hanger on top. You drill from there to the tail and there to the bottom hook hanger. Take a wire and twist a loop and slide one end to the tail and one to the middle hook hanger. Twist loops at each end and seal it up.
Posted 10 March 2012 - 11:48 PM
This is a twisted wire hook hanger done in a barrel wrap version. This is similar to what Benton was talking about. You can also make them with what I call a simple twist or some call a haywire twist. I like the barrel twist because in tests I've done it formed a better bond with the glue and wood meaning, to me at least, that it was a stronger connection. Lot of others use the simple twist with no adverse effects. Using twisted wire line ties and hook hangers is much easier than building a thru wire and are more than strong enough for bass. Now if your fishing for muskies or saltwater fish you may need a thru wire.
If your dead set on using a thru wire there is a picture of one of those below also.
Edited by RayburnGuy, 10 March 2012 - 11:52 PM.
Posted 12 March 2012 - 07:06 AM
What size wire would you recomend for flatsided balsa baits.
Posted 12 March 2012 - 08:10 AM
I fish for bass and use .032 soft temper stainless wire. Others use .035. Those sizes are easy to work with. Be sure to get the soft temper. If you try to use a hard, or spring temper wire, it can be difficult to work with when using common hand tools. Others may have different opinions, but this is wire I like to use.
Posted 12 March 2012 - 11:16 AM
Can somebody fix the missing images, please? I can only see Ben's. And yes I am signed in. Tried to see where the links for the photos are but only see " ...broken link" Thanks
Posted 12 March 2012 - 11:21 AM
Never mind I found them somehow. (by clicking on Archery Rob's profile and then his posts)
and Thanks Rob for posting.
Edited by EdL, 12 March 2012 - 11:23 AM.