Sign in to follow this  
Followers 0
ravenlures

Sealer

15 posts in this topic

Sounds good to me THANKS!!!!! Although I plan on making a pressure tank to put my lures in to push a sealer in farther. I am using Bass Wood for Musky lures. Think that is over kill.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

thompsons has a waxy overtone.

we just immerse our bodies into s.sealer 2 times. .primers adhere well and theres good absortion on softwoods like bass woods or cedars.

we use 99percent cedars .

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Woodieb8

When I first stated making baits I used sanding sealer with lacquer paints but quickly left after experiencing air bubbles in paint when the bait got hot. I thought maybe it was due to not letting the sealer dry properly or humidity issues when applied to bait. Since your familiar with the product, any thoughts about what may have been giving me grief?

The other thing about deft sanding sealer is how loud the smell. For sure a ventilated activity.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

If you heat the bait during painting, you need to you a tougher seal coat than run-of-the-mill sanding sealer. That stuff is not designed to contain the air pressure you create inside the wood when you heat a bait.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Bob

So heat setting paint is not recommended with sanding sealer. What prevents a finished bait sealed with sanding sealer from bubbling after a hot day on the boat? I know many are made with it and they do not have the problem with hot summer day on the boat.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I think the topcoat is what keeps the finish from rupturing due to heat expansion. I've had cured epoxy used for a seal coat rupture when heated hot enough during painting. The air pressure concentrates in a section of the wood that has open grain and voila. Not saying all sanding sealers aren't tough enough - I haven't tried them all - but they are designed to fill open grains in wood after sanding as a smooth base to carry later finish layers - not to be tough and impermeable.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

OK Thompsons is out. How about a two part epoxy A & B from Component Systems I have tried it and it hardens and soaks in pretty good. What you think? anybody ever use it on Maple or Basswood

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

OK Thompsons is out. How about a two part epoxy A & B from Component Systems I have tried it and it hardens and soaks in pretty good. What you think? anybody ever use it on Maple or Basswood

Use whatever you aregoing to use as a topcoat. Etex, devcon, DN. I use etex to seal my wood and I use it as a topcoat also!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

". Are you a twin? LOL

sonny some days i wish i had a twin. i could blame him lol.actually i have help building in the shop..as for s.seal it abborbs into wood pores and doent lift with water immersion.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Wood has some odd characteristics which show up as wood reacts with moisture, water or chemical. As wood absorbs moisture it swells, as it dries it shrinks. Keep this in mind when choosing your piece of wood to carve or when you lay the heat to your paints. I would think that the sealer that dries the quickest without penitration would be the best if it meets all the other requirements. Musky Glenn

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!


Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.


Sign In Now
Sign in to follow this  
Followers 0