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14 replies to this topic
Posted 18 March 2012 - 06:16 PM
Has anyone ever used Thompson's Water Sealer for sealing their wood baits.
Posted 19 March 2012 - 06:52 AM
Sounds good to me THANKS!!!!! Although I plan on making a pressure tank to put my lures in to push a sealer in farther. I am using Bass Wood for Musky lures. Think that is over kill.
Posted 19 March 2012 - 05:48 PM
What does it exactly do to ruin paint?
Posted 19 March 2012 - 06:49 PM
thompsons has a waxy overtone.
we just immerse our bodies into s.sealer 2 times. .primers adhere well and theres good absortion on softwoods like bass woods or cedars.
we use 99percent cedars .
Posted 19 March 2012 - 06:58 PM
When I first stated making baits I used sanding sealer with lacquer paints but quickly left after experiencing air bubbles in paint when the bait got hot. I thought maybe it was due to not letting the sealer dry properly or humidity issues when applied to bait. Since your familiar with the product, any thoughts about what may have been giving me grief?
The other thing about deft sanding sealer is how loud the smell. For sure a ventilated activity.
Posted 19 March 2012 - 10:07 PM
If you heat the bait during painting, you need to you a tougher seal coat than run-of-the-mill sanding sealer. That stuff is not designed to contain the air pressure you create inside the wood when you heat a bait.
Posted 19 March 2012 - 10:20 PM
So heat setting paint is not recommended with sanding sealer. What prevents a finished bait sealed with sanding sealer from bubbling after a hot day on the boat? I know many are made with it and they do not have the problem with hot summer day on the boat.
Posted 19 March 2012 - 10:39 PM
I think the topcoat is what keeps the finish from rupturing due to heat expansion. I've had cured epoxy used for a seal coat rupture when heated hot enough during painting. The air pressure concentrates in a section of the wood that has open grain and voila. Not saying all sanding sealers aren't tough enough - I haven't tried them all - but they are designed to fill open grains in wood after sanding as a smooth base to carry later finish layers - not to be tough and impermeable.
Posted 21 March 2012 - 09:25 PM
OK Thompsons is out. How about a two part epoxy A & B from Component Systems I have tried it and it hardens and soaks in pretty good. What you think? anybody ever use it on Maple or Basswood
Posted 22 March 2012 - 12:47 PM
Use whatever you aregoing to use as a topcoat. Etex, devcon, DN. I use etex to seal my wood and I use it as a topcoat also!
Posted 22 March 2012 - 04:09 PM
". Are you a twin? LOL
sonny some days i wish i had a twin. i could blame him lol.actually i have help building in the shop..as for s.seal it abborbs into wood pores and doent lift with water immersion.
Posted 22 March 2012 - 04:22 PM
Wood has some odd characteristics which show up as wood reacts with moisture, water or chemical. As wood absorbs moisture it swells, as it dries it shrinks. Keep this in mind when choosing your piece of wood to carve or when you lay the heat to your paints. I would think that the sealer that dries the quickest without penitration would be the best if it meets all the other requirements. Musky Glenn