Double D

Proof Is In The Puddin

54 posts in this topic

Thank you very much Mark.....you might just have saved me a lot of frustration and headaches....I have been wondering about how to seal jointed baits too...and was wondering if it was possible....thank you so much for your willingness to share...I only do it as a hobby....I have no desire to disappoint other people.....I used to paint and draw and found that the pictures in my mind were never the same as the ones in my customers....so I gave that up long ago....now I only do it for personal enjoyment and relaxation....when I aint fishin that is.....so now I got this new creative flow going and started wondering if I was getting in over my head......I don't think my wife is gonna be very happy ......lol....AZEK...here I come.

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Glad to share. Everything I know about building lures I learned here at TU, from other members who shared with me, so, at least for me, it's part of the deal to share with others in return.

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So, I just got back from a visit to both Lowe's and Home Depot.....Lowes had something somewhat similar I guess, but was not called Azek....came in a couple of shades of brown, but they were like 18 ft long and cost like $35 bucks a piece....I guess when you consider that with 18 ft of this stuff, I could probably make several dozen lures with it....but not knowing anything about the stuff, I don't know that I want that much of it to start out with....they had two thicknesses....1" and 1 1/4 "....1" seems a little thin to me, so I would probably lean toward the thicker of the two, if they had something smaller than 18 ft.....Home Depot had some that were labelled as the desired material and they were 10' in length, white, and much more reasonably priced, but they only had 1" thickness...I took a look online at some photos of the stuff and it appeared to me that the material is limited as to the sizes you can get...but I will keep looking....now if we are talking non-jointed lures, like walk the dog type baits, are they as difficult to seal?..I have one that I am anxious to try out....it is about 7 1/2" long and is somewhat a "KO" of the Lunker Punker...I really like the design of that lure, but not willing to fork out that kind of cash...so I just carved one out of basswood...and from what a couple of friends tell me, it looks pretty sharp....if I could figure out how to upload a pic, I would, but am not having much luck with that....I am somewhat technically challenged with these kinda things at times....so if you know of anyplace that has more of a variety of sizes of this stuff, it would be greatly appreciated....in the meantime, I will keep looking...thanks again.

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Have you tried doing a search online for Azek? If you go to the manufacturers website they usually have a search option to find dealers close to you.

Ben

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1" thick works fine for me. If you need thicker, you can glue up a blank from two pieces. PVC glue should work fine for that. I use epoxy and it works perfectly. Just be sure to remove the factory finish from the faces you're gluing first, so you have a porous surface.

One neat deal with gluing up two pieces is you have a very prominent center line to work with. That really helps me to get the lure more symeterical as I'm shaping it.

One piece wooden lures aren't as difficult to seal. If I were making one, I'd probably seal it with D2T, thinned with denatured alcohol and coated several times. That should penetrate and seal.

Or, if you have the time, the linseed oil mixture others have recommended should work, too.

If you seat your hook hangers and line tie in either crazy glue or epoxy, they won't turn and give water an entry point. I use sst screw eyes, run them in and back out again to cut threads in the blank, coat the eye threads and shank with brush-on crazy glue, and run them back in. Whatever glue doesn't stay on the threads when it gets run back in will make a little hump around the hole that the eye can sit in, and that should lock it in place.

Hardware movement is the biggest culprit in water intrusion.

Next is on the water encounters with rocks. I carry a bottle of clear nail polish in my boat, for on the water repairs if and when that happens. Just be sure to dry the lure well before you put on the polish, and let the polish dry well before you start throwing it again.

Good luck.

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So I found a website that offers it in any 1 foot increments that you want to buy.....1.25 inches thick, 3.5 inches wide....I bought a foot to start out with.....if I think it is something that I might like to further pursue, then I know where to get it....now I am like the proverbial kid on Christmas Eve.....can't wait to get it and try it out....I have attempted to upload some photos of my wood carvings on here but am having no luck....must be doing something wrong along the line....anybody care to share how I can reduce my frustration concerning this problem? thank you in advance.

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To upload pics just click on the "More Reply Options" button in the lower right hand corner of the "Reply" box. When that opens click on the "Browse" button under where it says "Attach Files". That will open up the files on your computer. Choose the appropriate file and then click on "Attach This File".

If that doesn't work then you have problems that I'm not sure how to fix.

Ben

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Ok, it looks like that worked, although I am not sure that I am supposed to be posting these pics here...if not, please advise accordingly, and I will be more careful in the future....I think my lunker punker K.O. is a bit thicker than the original, so I am wondering how that will affect the walk-the-dog action that it is supposed to have...I sealed it last night, so just waiting for it to completely dry so I can take it out and test it before I apply it's characteristics....

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can't wait to get my azek block in the mail....I am really wanting to make the jointed plug that is pictured without having to worry about whether it is waterproof or not....It will be interesting to see how bouyant that stuff is as compared to wood.....

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Thanks again for all the assistance...

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Thank you sir.....I am certainly hoping that Azek material carves as nicely as basswood....if it does, I will definitely be hooked.....pun intended....and if it doesn't, then I guess I will just have to stick to non-segmented baits....or just use em til their useless and carve another one...

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I don't think you'll get as smooth a surface with the PVC as you got with the wood. It is made from fine grain particles, not grown like wood. You will probably have to wet sand it with 400 grit wet and dry paper after priming with Rustoleum rattle can primer, several coats, to get it smooth.

Myself, I don't bother. I sand down to 220, and then paint directly over the PVC.

My Createx white base coat, pearls, and other colors in multiple coats fill it in almost completely, and my dipped top coat, three dips, finishes the job.

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still waiting for my block...not sure what is taking so long....anyway, being new to this whole realm, I didn't think about the fact that the paint could fill in the minute crevices that may be left on the PVC....I am anxious to get going with this endeavor....almost finished with my "spray booth" (more for my wifes' peace of mind than anything)....when that is done, I can take the next step and get my "gun" kit and starting experimenting....my wife tells me I am like a kid at Christmas time when it comes to anything that relates to bass fishin.....lol

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Actually, I just got it in the mail a couple of days ago...have no idea what took so long for me to get it, but it doesn't really matter now that I do have it......I cut off a hunk and took the knife to it just to see how it "whittles", and so far, so good....I am in the middle of another project right now (building a paint booth), so as soon as I finish with that, I will really get down to seeing how this stuff performs....so far as I can tell right now, I am liking it....but as with anything, you really don't know what you,re in for until you spend a little time with it...will keep you updated as I progress...thanks.

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Both.

Painting and shaping both put particles into the air that can be inhaled.

I use water borne paints, and spray with my Garage door open, a 20" box fan behind me blowing out, and shoot the paint toward the open door, so I seldom use a mask when I paint. Probably stupid on my part.

But it's really important when you machine and sand the PVC. The sanding dust is really irritating for my sinuses.

I never shape or sand the PVC baits without a dust mask. Never.

After I've sanded a bait, I take it outside and blow the sanding dust off it, and my hands. Someone here said the dust has static cling, and I believe it.

When I don't use a mask, I can count on blowing my nose all night.

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I live in a condo, so don't have a garage....I am in the process of building a spray booth complete with an exhaust fan that will (hopefully) draw all those paint particles through a filter. I have heard that the water based paints don't have a bad fume problem so that is what I am planning on using......as far as "machining" the PVC....I only have hand tools and a dremel, but have purchased a couple of masks to have in case I find that I might need them.....as I learn to work with the PVC more, I am sure that I will probably have to adjust my techniques and safety precautions accordingly when and where necessary....thanks for the tips.....

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Ok, so I have been trying to carve this Pvc for a few days now, and have to say that it sure aint as easy as carving wood....thinkin I might have to try using the Dremel tool and a "grind" it into shape.....or I was thinking maybe a belt sander or a disc sander or something....I tried doing a search for PVC on here and came back blank....said I couldn't use a "three letter word"...anybody able to steer me in the right direction?....I don't mind searching but came up blank when I used those three letters. any help would be greatly appreciated

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You can use GOOGLE to seach this forum and it will accept 3-letter searches!

To search for "PVC", you just type in the word (or words) followed by "site:..." where the ...is the url of the forum.

Here's an example, put everything except the quotes in the google entry field

"PVC site:http://www.tackleunderground.com/community/forum/13-hard-baits/"

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Ok, so I have been trying to carve this Pvc for a few days now, and have to say that it sure aint as easy as carving wood....thinkin I might have to try using the Dremel tool and a "grind" it into shape.....or I was thinking maybe a belt sander or a disc sander or something....I tried doing a search for PVC on here and came back blank....said I couldn't use a "three letter word"...anybody able to steer me in the right direction?....I don't mind searching but came up blank when I used those three letters. any help would be greatly appreciated

Double D, I have to disagree with you on the wood vs. PVC. The PVC has no grain to worry about and no oops a big chunk of material coming off because of the grain. I use an Exacto knife to pare it down to pre-finish and then start with a Dremel sanding drum to even up the pare marks and then, to 150, 100 and a final step, 220 if necessary. I can carve my bait down to paint ready in about 45 minutes. Don't get me wrong, the Exacto knife way is very dangerous, but I've had great success doing it this way. By the way, I did mention earlier in the post that when you sand PVC, you charge the particles with static electricity that's why the stuff sticks to everything, even the parings will stick to you. Be careful when sanding, grinding etc and wear a particle mask.

Jerry

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bassguy, you say you can get your bait ready to paint in 45 minutes?...apparently you have been working with this stuff for a while.....this is my first attempt and still have a long way to go and a lot to learn....I am not giving up....... just think that at this point in my journey, I like carving basswood better.....it sands a lot easier and doesn't stick to everything like the pvc does....now after I have learned how to manipulate this stuff a little more, I may change my tune....I am using a BUTZ carving knife at this point.....maybe I will try the Exacto....could be more effective than what I am using. What size and shape of a blade are you using?...also I have not used my dremel on it either.....I may find that it goes much quicker that way.....of course if I could spend more time doing it, it might help too.....I work 50 to 60 hrs a week and am pretty beat by the time I get home and usually end up going to bed not long after dinner....most of my leasure time comes on the weekends....but thanks for the pointers, and like I say, I aint giving up on it.

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DD, I should have said ballast ready. Which is only one step away from paint. I use the regular holder with a #11 blade; that is number on the blade. I cinch the blade down with a pair of pliers to keep the blade tight. I find that if the blade loosens up some the blade will have a tendency to turn. After I've cut the square shape from the PVC block with the scroll saw, I make my center lines, drill the ballast hole, cut the lip slot, drill the rear hook hanger and line tie. Once that is done, then I begin to carve. I don't follow the tried and true carve away from your thumb adage, but it's more like peeling an apple carve if you get what I mean. It again is dangerous and not for every one because as you know the Exacto blade is non-forgiving. If you choose to use the Exacto blade this way, be VERY CAREFUL! I can't stress this enough. The dremel goes quicker but you can use 80 grit to smooth out the parring marks and use the other grits as I explained earlier. Yeah, don't give up on PVC you'll be pleased with the outcome once you get the hang of the material. I guess I'm just lazy, I don't like to spend the time sealing the baits..... DD looking forward to seeing your baits in the coming days.

Jerry

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I think you'll find the trim board carves more easily than the decking.

Sharp blades are the secret to easier carving.

And wear a leather glove on your carving hand if you're going to carve it like peeling an apple. If you nick the leather, you can glue another piece, thicker piece of leather over the thumb pad to make it thicker and give you more protection.

I've used leather from old boots, and it works really well.

Edited by mark poulson

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