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Proof Is In The Puddin
53 replies to this topic
Posted 17 April 2012 - 03:38 AM
Mark, is the dustmask for when I paint or when I work with the PVC?
Posted 17 April 2012 - 07:59 AM
Painting and shaping both put particles into the air that can be inhaled.
I use water borne paints, and spray with my Garage door open, a 20" box fan behind me blowing out, and shoot the paint toward the open door, so I seldom use a mask when I paint. Probably stupid on my part.
But it's really important when you machine and sand the PVC. The sanding dust is really irritating for my sinuses.
I never shape or sand the PVC baits without a dust mask. Never.
After I've sanded a bait, I take it outside and blow the sanding dust off it, and my hands. Someone here said the dust has static cling, and I believe it.
When I don't use a mask, I can count on blowing my nose all night.
Posted 17 April 2012 - 07:57 PM
I live in a condo, so don't have a garage....I am in the process of building a spray booth complete with an exhaust fan that will (hopefully) draw all those paint particles through a filter. I have heard that the water based paints don't have a bad fume problem so that is what I am planning on using......as far as "machining" the PVC....I only have hand tools and a dremel, but have purchased a couple of masks to have in case I find that I might need them.....as I learn to work with the PVC more, I am sure that I will probably have to adjust my techniques and safety precautions accordingly when and where necessary....thanks for the tips.....
Posted 04 May 2012 - 08:20 PM
Ok, so I have been trying to carve this Pvc for a few days now, and have to say that it sure aint as easy as carving wood....thinkin I might have to try using the Dremel tool and a "grind" it into shape.....or I was thinking maybe a belt sander or a disc sander or something....I tried doing a search for PVC on here and came back blank....said I couldn't use a "three letter word"...anybody able to steer me in the right direction?....I don't mind searching but came up blank when I used those three letters. any help would be greatly appreciated
Posted 06 May 2012 - 03:23 AM
You can use GOOGLE to seach this forum and it will accept 3-letter searches!
To search for "PVC", you just type in the word (or words) followed by "site:..." where the ...is the url of the forum.
Here's an example, put everything except the quotes in the google entry field
Posted 06 May 2012 - 09:33 AM
Double D, I have to disagree with you on the wood vs. PVC. The PVC has no grain to worry about and no oops a big chunk of material coming off because of the grain. I use an Exacto knife to pare it down to pre-finish and then start with a Dremel sanding drum to even up the pare marks and then, to 150, 100 and a final step, 220 if necessary. I can carve my bait down to paint ready in about 45 minutes. Don't get me wrong, the Exacto knife way is very dangerous, but I've had great success doing it this way. By the way, I did mention earlier in the post that when you sand PVC, you charge the particles with static electricity that's why the stuff sticks to everything, even the parings will stick to you. Be careful when sanding, grinding etc and wear a particle mask.
Posted 12 May 2012 - 08:10 PM
bassguy, you say you can get your bait ready to paint in 45 minutes?...apparently you have been working with this stuff for a while.....this is my first attempt and still have a long way to go and a lot to learn....I am not giving up....... just think that at this point in my journey, I like carving basswood better.....it sands a lot easier and doesn't stick to everything like the pvc does....now after I have learned how to manipulate this stuff a little more, I may change my tune....I am using a BUTZ carving knife at this point.....maybe I will try the Exacto....could be more effective than what I am using. What size and shape of a blade are you using?...also I have not used my dremel on it either.....I may find that it goes much quicker that way.....of course if I could spend more time doing it, it might help too.....I work 50 to 60 hrs a week and am pretty beat by the time I get home and usually end up going to bed not long after dinner....most of my leasure time comes on the weekends....but thanks for the pointers, and like I say, I aint giving up on it.
Posted 12 May 2012 - 09:44 PM
DD, I should have said ballast ready. Which is only one step away from paint. I use the regular holder with a #11 blade; that is number on the blade. I cinch the blade down with a pair of pliers to keep the blade tight. I find that if the blade loosens up some the blade will have a tendency to turn. After I've cut the square shape from the PVC block with the scroll saw, I make my center lines, drill the ballast hole, cut the lip slot, drill the rear hook hanger and line tie. Once that is done, then I begin to carve. I don't follow the tried and true carve away from your thumb adage, but it's more like peeling an apple carve if you get what I mean. It again is dangerous and not for every one because as you know the Exacto blade is non-forgiving. If you choose to use the Exacto blade this way, be VERY CAREFUL! I can't stress this enough. The dremel goes quicker but you can use 80 grit to smooth out the parring marks and use the other grits as I explained earlier. Yeah, don't give up on PVC you'll be pleased with the outcome once you get the hang of the material. I guess I'm just lazy, I don't like to spend the time sealing the baits..... DD looking forward to seeing your baits in the coming days.
Posted 14 May 2012 - 07:27 PM
I think you'll find the trim board carves more easily than the decking.
Sharp blades are the secret to easier carving.
And wear a leather glove on your carving hand if you're going to carve it like peeling an apple. If you nick the leather, you can glue another piece, thicker piece of leather over the thumb pad to make it thicker and give you more protection.
I've used leather from old boots, and it works really well.
Edited by mark poulson, 14 May 2012 - 07:30 PM.
Posted 14 May 2012 - 08:48 PM
bassguy, I have a variable speed dremel tool....what RPM would you suggest....low or high?
Mark, I have one of those kevlar gloves that I wear when carving with my normal carving knife...would that be safe with the exacto also?
Posted 14 May 2012 - 09:02 PM
I'm thinking you'd have more control with your regular carving knife, so I'd surely wear it when using the exacto.
Those cuts come quick, but it seems like they take forever to heal.
Posted 14 May 2012 - 09:20 PM
@DD, I have the dial set at 4 or 5 on the dremel. I don't know what that equates to as RPM. I also use the moto flex tool on the dremel which makes it much easier to use the sanding drum. I'm very careful not to keep the drum in one spot; it doesn't take much to remove the carving marks. I use the carving approach (pulling it toward me) with the sanding drum as well and I can see how much I need to remove for shaping.
@Mark, Knock on wood I've been very careful about the carving. Keeping an eye on what I'm doing. Yes, the cuts come quick because one little slip and you're done.
Posted 15 May 2012 - 09:14 PM
yeah, I have been eyeing my flex tool too...I was thinking that it might come in handy for this type of work....will let you know how I do with it. I have two sizes of sanding drum, they look like the same grit but one is larger in diameter than the other.....I am assuming that the difference won't really matter unless I am trying to use it on an inside curve, which doesn't seem to me like it would apply for this type of work.