beasty

Silicone Jig Molds

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I seen a video on pouring molds using high temp silicone, has anyone here done it? I'm curious on how they hold up, and if someone can point me in the right direction on what I all need to give it a shot and where to buy the material, i would be forever grateful.

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I have done it and so far they hold up great. The beauty of it is that you can replicate almost any jig and change hooks as you want. Here are some of the ones that I have made http://s1057.photobucket.com/albums/t389/Paxamus/ i got my silicone from Jim at Sunbelt Materials- he is a great guy with fast shipping. I used the Rhodorosil v340.

There are alot of nuances to making a mold and I would be glad to help with any questions.

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I have done it and so far they hold up great. The beauty of it is that you can replicate almost any jig and change hooks as you want. Here are some of the ones that I have made http://s1057.photobu...s/t389/Paxamus/ i got my silicone from Jim at Sunbelt Materials- he is a great guy with fast shipping. I used the Rhodorosil v340.

There are alot of nuances to making a mold and I would be glad to help with any questions.

Paxamus, not to hijack the thread but can you use the same mold material you use to make temporary inserts to aluminum molds? I have used all sorts of material to make weedguard fillers and such so I was thinking I could use it to fill weedguard slots and use wire weedguards.

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Shouldn't be a problem. You would have to take a jig and place it in the mold, then pour the silicone in that half( mold open at this point) to fill the weed guard hole. Then once dry repeat in the other half. cut a small slot for the wire weed guard and pour

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Your jigs look great, my plan is to make a 3 jig mold, how long does a side take to setup? and what was a ball park figure on the price to make one? I read some where Lego's work well for making a form,anyone try that?

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I use Legos for my mold boxes and they work great. With the small thing of Rhodorosil from Sunbelt you should be able to do it, but I would caution making a 3 jig mold. I would make three one cavity molds, because if you make a three cavity, the silicone makes the cooling of the jig take longer, so with three cavities it would keep your mold hotter longer and then have longer demold time and your silicone mold will stay hotter longer and lessen the life of your mold. I personally have made a two cavity and used it but was MUCH happier making single cavities and pouring one, then while it cools pour another. Plus you actually use less silicone.

Setup is 24 hrs for a complete cure for each side.

Let me know if I can help.

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How did you do the mold? Wait for it to set up a little and punch the jig in? Or did you suspend it in clay an pour the silicone? The mold looks good. I made some POP molds for a prototype jig and it turned out ok. I think silicone is in my future though.

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How did you do the mold? Wait for it to set up a little and punch the jig in? Or did you suspend it in clay an pour the silicone? The mold looks good. I made some POP molds for a prototype jig and it turned out ok. I think silicone is in my future though.

I've found great Paxamus's explanation in the:

http://www.bassresource.com/bass-fishing-forums/topic/98960-some-of-my-molds-i-made-and-jigs-just-a-few/

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Sink your mold halfway into modeling clay, then build a mold box around the area you want to pour, place your keys. Measure your silicone, mix, then pour the first half. Wait 24 hrs, then demold, clean up any overpours then place jig in silicone mold from the day before and repour the other half. If you write down the amount you used for the first half you can eliminate that step and just pour.

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Are there a modeling clays that after hardening could be used like molds instead of silicone?

Thanks

Edited by ING

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Not that I am aware of, I think that the heat of the lead would make the clay crack.

Thank you.

One more question: why did you choose V340 from long list: V-240, V-243, V-249, V-252, V-252 Diluent, V-330, V-340/CA-35, V-340/CA-45, V-340/CA-55, V-341,V-360, V-3038, V-3040, RTV-1556, RTV-1597...?

Some of them have a better tempereture range[-55 to 249 (-65 to 400)] vs. [-50 to 150 (-58 to 302)] of V340.

Thanks again.

Edited by ING

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I wasn't sure looking at them if they would even hold up to leads high temps, so I called the owner, Jim Dailey. I told him what I was going to use the silicone for and he told me to use that one. Others may work, but that's the told me to use and dlaery on this website had used v330. So that helped

Edited by Paxamus
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I beleive that smalljaw is on to something using the silicone as an insert in aluminum molds. Many times I like to use a smaller hook size and of course the mold eye cavity is always too big and placement is tedious and at times inconsistant. However it seems reasonable that with a silicone insert in the mold eye cavity one could use any hook size with consistant depth placement of the eye. Good idea smalljaw.

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I beleive that smalljaw is on to something using the silicone as an insert in aluminum molds. Many times I like to use a smaller hook size and of course the mold eye cavity is always too big and placement is tedious and at times inconsistant. However it seems reasonable that with a silicone insert in the mold eye cavity one could use any hook size with consistant depth placement of the eye. Good idea smalljaw.

I've been doing this with Do-It molds for years...use high heat silicone gasket-making goop that Permatex sells in tubes for automotive gasket use. Works like a charm & if you want to remove it later it comes out pretty easily with a little work.

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The past week I have been using some graphite mold release spray Blaster 5.5 oz. Graphite Dry Lubrican P/N 8-GS from Home Depot. Sprayed it on, let dry for about 10 minutes and bushed off the excess. High Temp says 850F and the 10, 1.5 oz heads I did all did well.

Tony

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The past week I have been using some graphite mold release spray Blaster 5.5 oz. Graphite Dry Lubrican P/N 8-GS from Home Depot. Sprayed it on, let dry for about 10 minutes and bushed off the excess. High Temp says 850F and the 10, 1.5 oz heads I did all did well.

Tony

Should have added Home Depot is where I got it, also online... http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1v/R-202597501/h_d2/ProductDisplay?catalogId=10053&langId=-1&keyword=8-gs&storeId=10051&relatedSearch=8-gs#.UBcs8y4bBFk at US$4.27

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I have done it and so far they hold up great. The beauty of it is that you can replicate almost any jig and change hooks as you want. Here are some of the ones that I have made http://s1057.photobu...s/t389/Paxamus/ i got my silicone from Jim at Sunbelt Materials- he is a great guy with fast shipping. I used the Rhodorosil v340.

There are alot of nuances to making a mold and I would be glad to help with any questions.

A question if you don't mind....Once you had poured the first half and let it cure... did you have to coat with a mold release to keep the second half from sticking to it? Thanks....Mike

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I shoot a quick shot of a white grease over it and wipe off as much as possible before pouring the second half. I have used thinner stuff but have had issues with bubbles. The grease seems to stay slick even after it has been wiped off.

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Depends a lot on the jig weight. A lot of the mold is heat sinking so the mold isn't easily damaged. I Like about an inch around the features if they are more than One ounce.

Tony

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I was thinking of jig's in the 1/4oz to 3/4oz. Could you expect to get 2 molds? 4 molds? 8 mold? I don't have any idea how much material the 2.75lb Quart kit contains or how many molds it might make. Say the molds are 4" x 4" and 2' thick?

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