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Silicone Jig Molds


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#21 tablerocktackle

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Posted 03 August 2012 - 07:53 AM

I have done it and so far they hold up great. The beauty of it is that you can replicate almost any jig and change hooks as you want. Here are some of the ones that I have made http://s1057.photobu...s/t389/Paxamus/ i got my silicone from Jim at Sunbelt Materials- he is a great guy with fast shipping. I used the Rhodorosil v340.
There are alot of nuances to making a mold and I would be glad to help with any questions.

A question if you don't mind....Once you had poured the first half and let it cure... did you have to coat with a mold release to keep the second half from sticking to it? Thanks....Mike

#22 Paxamus

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Posted 03 August 2012 - 09:00 AM

I shoot a quick shot of a white grease over it and wipe off as much as possible before pouring the second half. I have used thinner stuff but have had issues with bubbles. The grease seems to stay slick even after it has been wiped off.

#23 mafloyd88

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Posted 02 September 2012 - 11:03 AM

How many single cavity molds could you expect to get out of the 2.75lb Quart Kit?

#24 tbrinlee

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Posted 02 September 2012 - 04:05 PM

Depends a lot on the jig weight. A lot of the mold is heat sinking so the mold isn't easily damaged. I Like about an inch around the features if they are more than One ounce.

Tony

#25 mafloyd88

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Posted 02 September 2012 - 06:30 PM

I was thinking of jig's in the 1/4oz to 3/4oz. Could you expect to get 2 molds? 4 molds? 8 mold? I don't have any idea how much material the 2.75lb Quart kit contains or how many molds it might make. Say the molds are 4" x 4" and 2' thick?

#26 tbrinlee

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Posted 04 September 2012 - 06:15 AM

Single cavity should be around 3-4 would be my guess.

#27 toadfrog

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Posted 05 September 2012 - 05:02 AM

I use talc powder for making two part molds .Powder the master before you set the first half then let it set until slightly firm to touch . Powder the entire half using a fluffy makeup brush . Blow off any excess Pour the other half . Speeds things up a little and both sides are cured together more or less .

#28 RAWJigs

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Posted 05 September 2012 - 09:15 AM

I keep meaning to contact Paximus about making me some molds. He does good work from what it seems!

#29 Paxamus

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Posted 13 September 2012 - 08:37 AM

How many single cavity molds could you expect to get out of the 2.75lb Quart Kit?


It will depend not only on the weight, but also the shape. Footballs take the most silicone, while others less. I have gotten around six to seven two part single pour molds per quart, but it will vary. If you decide to try it shoot me an email or a pm and I will give you any help I can.

Paxamus

#30 RAWJigs

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Posted 13 September 2012 - 09:52 AM

I would love to give it a try, but more worried cause last time i tried doing silicon, I used the stuff that Larry dude endorses. Mold turned out great but its like it wouldn't settle the lead. the lead would crumble lol.

#31 tbrinlee

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Posted 13 September 2012 - 09:51 PM

The crumbly lead may have been the result of the lead being too hot and you trying to de-mould too soon. At least that was my experience. I went to a thicker wall (bigger heat sink) and allowed the lead to rest a bit longer as well as dropping the lead temp on the pot and that seemed to fix it. The silicone really holds the heat in a long time. You should also allow the mold to rest between shots to bring the mold temp back down so it doesn't ruin the mold. I will also say that I was poring 3 and 6 oz squid jigs so I use about an inch all the way around the jig. Hope something in the rampbling message above helps.

Tony

#32 RAWJigs

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Posted 14 September 2012 - 12:18 PM

That might have been my problem. The wall was too thin and it didn't have enough to take the heat.

#33 robbor

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Posted 19 December 2012 - 02:06 AM

I made my silicone molds with contenti white high temp heat vulcanized spincasting silicone, I believe its stable to 900F. very durable even with pressing against the pot nozzle. it comes in 1/4" thick sheets you normally put your master on 2 sheets then brush on mica powder add acorn nuts for allignment then add the next 2 sheets and bake in the oven. The requirement is a heavy duty mold frame, like a jewelry mold frame with aluminum plates on both sides and 5/16 bolts surrounding holes to clamp.



#34 cz75b

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Posted 22 December 2012 - 05:10 PM

Step to note in making the second halk of the two part mold.....spray the first half and model jig with a release agent so the mold halves will separate and consider using ball bearings as keys the help align the mold halves for each pour. Put the bearing in your first half and take then out when you make the second half.....scatter them around the outside of the subject out of the way.....

#35 beasty

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Posted 16 March 2013 - 03:48 PM

I made my silicone molds with contenti white high temp heat vulcanized spincasting silicone, I believe its stable to 900F. very durable even with pressing against the pot nozzle. it comes in 1/4" thick sheets you normally put your master on 2 sheets then brush on mica powder add acorn nuts for allignment then add the next 2 sheets and bake in the oven. The requirement is a heavy duty mold frame, like a jewelry mold frame with aluminum plates on both sides and 5/16 bolts surrounding holes to clamp.

I have see these sheets on the net, could you give a little more detail on how these work, do you put the jig your're trying to duplacate between the sheets  and then bake in a oven? I'm completely lost on how these sheets worl.


Edited by beasty, 16 March 2013 - 03:51 PM.


#36 robbor

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Posted 16 March 2013 - 11:23 PM

Ya beasty! You put down 1/2 the mold sheets into a preheated frame then your lure/sprue former/gate former; then dust with mica powder add you other 1/2 of the sheets, close the frame and bake until you cookies are done, lol.  If you have sheets touching each other without mice they will bond to each other when baked.

I ran across this old frame i made way back when i was first starting, my passion is micro ice jigs. It was for use with scraps and only 1/4" deep per side.  I would mace it completely different now. Id want the sprue to be made of silicone and not alum, i feel it make the mold sink no heat and pour full pours easily. Id open the cavity up to the top with a spligtly mold and have the sprue former attached to a third plate that was the top.

Here are the pics to give you guys bade ideas. I made all my 3 original frames on a drill press with a XY table.

ill post some pics of the last few sheets i have left next week.

Attached Files



#37 robbor

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Posted 16 March 2013 - 11:27 PM

Oh also forgot, there are some tricks of the trade. You take a thin slice of silicone and cover the hook shank before you powder. It bonds yo one 1/2 of the mold and when the mold is cured you slice it with a razor and it becomes a snap in hook holder.



#38 beasty

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Posted 17 March 2013 - 10:24 AM

delete


Edited by beasty, 17 March 2013 - 10:29 AM.


#39 beasty

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Posted 17 March 2013 - 10:28 AM

Thanks, I think I understand your prosses a little better. how hot do you have to have the oven to bake it? I wish there was a video on it for us dummies. :?



#40 robbor

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Posted 18 March 2013 - 01:53 AM

it not that hard. the silicone is very forgiving. iv made molds with , without preheating, even over curing and never had any problems other than a lil shrinkage. They say its only 1-2% but its a lil more than that.

http://www.contenti....179-XXXinst.pdf

its not that its hard its that information on mold making is not at all consumer related.

 pics will help. bug me in a week if i forget. go_rob_go@yahoo.com.

i have made smaller molds than the one above and i just shim the mold with paper besacue of shrinkage if im using the mold frame for pouring also. My big molds i do not, the complete pourable mold is all silicone.

 

If you guys want to chip in and buy me some more silicone il make you videos, lol.


Edited by robbor, 18 March 2013 - 01:54 AM.