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Problems With Top Coat, Help!
33 replies to this topic
Posted 03 April 2012 - 02:43 PM
I agree with Bob, having been doing model planes for years, i"ve seen batches that yellowed, and batches that didn't yellow, and I know some of those batches were mixed dead on perfect, and some weren't, also I know most of us don't just leave a box of crankabaits out in the sun all day, whatever yellowing effects there are I haven't seen them yet, both my brother and I have specific crankbaits we fish year round, every weekend and haven't seen those yellow yet, knocked the finish off of them, but thats another issue.
Posted 03 April 2012 - 07:48 PM
I Use Etex a couple tips on getting rid of bubbles.Warm the bottles in a pan of hot water for 5 -10 min.It pours better and there are less bubbles when you mix. After it is mixed, pour in a small bowl lined with aluminum foil. Let sit for a couple minutes and then hit it with heat gun or hair dryer,this will take care of most of the bubbles.Apply to your baits wait 5 min use heat to get rid of bubbles should be good to go.
Posted 03 April 2012 - 08:06 PM
That's fine with a decoupage epoxy like Etex, but I wouldn't try it with something like D2T or Bob Smith epoxy. Warming those will only shorten an already limited working time.
Posted 25 May 2012 - 06:42 PM
Didn't want to start any new threads so I picked this one to bump!! Lure #2 is going really well (so far!!) and I'm at the point of sealing it to get ready for its swim test tomorrow. It's actually on the lure turner I made (which turned out GREAT!!!) even as I write but my issue is this. I thinned out my D2t and it went on smoothly (enough...) but I do have some tiny bubbles that will certainly be there when the dry time is complete. Can I wetsand with some 2000 grit and recoat or am I pretty much hosed?
Edited by bluetickhound, 25 May 2012 - 06:44 PM.
Posted 25 May 2012 - 06:53 PM
You can sand and re-coat with no problem. It doesn't have to be anywhere close to 2000 grit and there's no need to wet sand unless you just want to. If I have a problem with an epoxy coat I lightly sand with 400 grit being careful not to sand all the way through the epoxy coating. If you sand down into the paint you've opened up a whole new can of worms. The epoxy will fill in any small scratches left behind by the sanding and you'll never even be able to tell there was a problem as long as the new coat goes on smooth.
As far as dealing with the tiny air bubbles it works better for me when I use a natural hair artists brush. The fine hair on this type brush seems to Plaster of Paris any tiny bubbles that I didn't get out of the mix by exhaling on it while it's still in the mixing cup. I use a 3/4" Sable brush that holds quite a bit of epoxy. You want to keep the brush wet with epoxy when brushing it on. If you feel the brush start to drag then it's time to load more epoxy on the brush. A couple drops of denatured alcohol and exhaling on the epoxy for several seconds goes a long way in getting the bubbles out of the mix before you start to apply it to the bait. Just remember to mix the two parts together before adding the alcohol. If you add it before mixing the epoxy the alcohol will bind to one part of the epoxy and keep it from being mixed properly.
Posted 25 May 2012 - 07:37 PM
Uh-oh... I used a bit of Acetone to thin.... Fortunately this is the sealer and not the top coat. If I need to sand down to bare hopefully that won't be a problem. I'd hate to lose this lure as its going really well so far...
Posted 25 May 2012 - 08:05 PM
I tell y'all what... I love me some search function!! I typed in "acetone" and it took me to a thread ( which actually turns out to be more appropriate for my question here...) that put me somewhat at ease about having used acetone to thin my D2T seal coat. It's not a killer mistake, it's just that DA is a much better product to use. The good news is that I already have a full can of it so I'll be ready on the topcoat...
Posted 26 May 2012 - 02:34 AM
I've read a few posts where some folks said they used acetone to clean up their brush after applying an epoxy top coat, but I don't remember anyone saying they used it to thin the mix. Most epoxy is pretty forgiving as to what we add to it and also that it really wasn't designed as a lure coating. I repaired a 3/4 oz. spinnerbait a little while ago that had a chip in the finish. Mixed up some epoxy and thinned it slightly with denatured alcohol. Once I had the alcohol incorporated into the epoxy I added a couple drops of white paint to the mix so it would match the original finish. It looks good and seems to be setting up well. Won't know how it holds up until I fish it for a while, but I've got high hopes.
Posted 26 May 2012 - 10:48 AM
Thats easy to fix.....use yellow and bright green patterns.
Posted 26 May 2012 - 04:20 PM
Ben i hit my baits with a hair dryer after applying d2t and it levels out the d2t on the bait really well and also gives me a little more work time so you can brush off any excess that runs as you turn it and hit it again to smooth it back out.becouse its not heat that causes it to harden it a chem. reaction of the two as there mixed
Posted 26 May 2012 - 04:39 PM
Yes, but that chemical reaction causes heat. Just for kicks mix up a small batch of D2T or Bob Smith epoxy. Then divide it into two equal amounts. Let one cure normally and hit the other one with a hair dryer or heat gun until it is warm to the touch. Then set back and see which one sets up first. You might be surprised.
Posted 26 May 2012 - 06:46 PM
Me too. I didn't like the looks of lure #2 this morning so I sanded down with 400 grit, mixed up some D2T and a couple of drops of DA and was AMAZED at how well it went on and looked.... Until I hit it with the heat gun... What I learned was to leave well enough ALONE!!! I had it beautiful and screwed it up. Will sand down tomorrow and try again, sans heat.
Posted 27 May 2012 - 01:28 PM
Success!! More or less anyway... I decreased the amount of DA, recoated and except for just a couple of very minor dust boogers this coal really looks glass smooth. I'll let this dry overnight and tomorrow will do my dunk test to determine ballast location(s)... Thanks for everyone's help and input!!