Just got up from the workshop having shot some pictures for another thread , .....since I'm just busy painting and topcoating another bunch of lures , I've thought that following pictures might be of interest for one or another fellow carver in here .
This is a simply made frame , that I'm using to fix jointed lureblanks for painting and topcoating , .......it is important to stretch out the jointed lure real firm .
If rubber bands should be too weak for bigger and heavier lures , one can also tie a simple loop of some kinda rigid twine or cord and utilize a kinked nail to twist the twine loop up to apply highest possible tension , .......the nail is then bound and secured against the dowel or one of the two long woodscrews somehow making it impossible to untwist again .
Since the the timber dowel is quite narrow , one can easily access all spots with a brush , even turn the bait around a bit putting one finger on the belly hook eye .
I'm painting my baits with a handbrush and modelmaking enamels , for topcoating I'm using a fast curing epoxy with only about 20 mins processing time , ......this way I do not need a rotisserie to avoid dripping , but only have to switch the bait around a few times whilst the epoxy starts to set .
For the lure to dry I'd clamp the frame dowel in my vise or utilize spring-loaded or carpenter's clamps fixed on the ends of the wooden dowel to serve as a stand .
But I'm sure , that it would be possible to design a rotisserie to accommodate such simple frames as well .
Impossible to avoid clogging up the joining eyes with epoxy topcoat , ......after the final coat has cured , I would utilize my Dremel with a 1,0mm drill bit and a tiny cylindrical router bit to cut the eyes free very carefully , ....a finacky task , but it always worked out for me , ........the blade point of my old carpet knife with interchangeable blades takes care of the rest of glue remainders .
Greetz , diemai