Shortt21

Sparr Urathane

10 posts in this topic

I have not heard of anyone using Sparr varnish as a top coat. I personally use it as a wood sealer prior to painting. I learned this from other people on TU. You could try it, but I don't think it is going to give you a very durable thick top coat. Most people on here like to use D2T or E-tex because the stuff just plain works.

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while spar varnish was used on loke lures a musky lure,it yellows and is not as durable as other clears

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Spar is a good choice for water resistance, but not as durable as a poly. It's made softer and more pliable to allow wood to expand and contract with the seasons. It will yellow, not as much as poly. And it is more expensive than poly.

If you don't mind the expense, you could go with a marine clear coat at about $80 a quart which claims outstanding UV resistance. That's a bit out of my league for a hobby. Two other considerations would be automotive clear coat like they use in a body shop, or swimming pool paint.

Over the years I have used rattle cans, nail polish, etc., and poly is my choice this side of Devcon, if you don't mind the yellowing.

For cost and durability, it will be hard to beat D2T and E-Tex.

Just my two cents.

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The spar varnish is basically for exterior doors and the like to protect them from the elements. It's like a "water resistant" coating to protect the stain on the door. Whereas the Devcon 2 ton is "water proof" which is a whole different ballgame. There are other topcoats on the market but I've used nothing but Devcon and I swear by it.

Jerry

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I haven't found many positives where any polyurethane is concerned. I know that, in just a short period of time, it will totally change the color of your lure.

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I've had poly to melt in my tacklebox when it gets hot. Never tried Sparr though so I can't really say anything about it. I use 2t epoxy now.

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DN is a moisture cured polyurethane and is one of the toughest, non-yellowing top coats out there. I stopped using it because of the storage issues. Not because it wasn't a good top coat. It's way tougher than auto clear, but I always ended up losing a bunch of it because of said storage issues. There are lots of different choices when it comes to "poly". Maybe what you guys were trying to use wasn't up to the task, but I wouldn't lump all polyurethanes into one pile because you had bad luck with one of them.

Ben

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DN is a moisture cured polyurethane and is one of the toughest, non-yellowing top coats out there. I stopped using it because of the storage issues. Not because it wasn't a good top coat. It's way tougher than auto clear, but I always ended up losing a bunch of it because of said storage issues. There are lots of different choices when it comes to "poly". Maybe what you guys were trying to use wasn't up to the task, but I wouldn't lump all polyurethanes into one pile because you had bad luck with one of them.

Ben

I am glad that you pointed out that all urethanes aren't the same, I didn't think about people lumping them all together. I have heard that DN is one of the best clears out there but i've never tried it because of storage issues. If were making a lot of baits at once it might be worth the troubles but a couple here and a couple there just isn't feasible for me.

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DN is a moisture cured polyurethane and is one of the toughest, non-yellowing top coats out there. I stopped using it because of the storage issues. Not because it wasn't a good top coat. It's way tougher than auto clear, but I always ended up losing a bunch of it because of said storage issues. There are lots of different choices when it comes to "poly". Maybe what you guys were trying to use wasn't up to the task, but I wouldn't lump all polyurethanes into one pile because you had bad luck with one of them.

Ben

I have a can of DN that I've had for a few weeks. I'm afraid to open it. :oooh:

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