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Auto Air Paint
11 replies to this topic
Posted 30 May 2012 - 10:28 AM
Ive had it with createx...jams up my gun even if i thin it like water....wanna try something new...has anyone ever used the auto-air airbrush paints ??
Posted 30 May 2012 - 11:21 AM
Use it all the time. It does spray smoother, but I still use regular createx among other brands quite a bit.
Posted 30 May 2012 - 11:26 AM
well i dont have the fancy expensive guns (yet)...i have dual action top feed but they are master brand and get from amazon for 30 bucks each...but badger paint sprays fine with no thinning but i like the variety of the auto-air...
Posted 30 May 2012 - 12:17 PM
Strain your Createx through some old panty hose and see if that helps. A lot times the larger flakes (in any paint) will cause problems.
Always check the cap too. Had a bottle of opaque yellow that I didn't snap closed develop a lot of cookies in it.
Posted 30 May 2012 - 10:56 PM
What gary said and the older the bottle is the more sludge it will grow. Cut it from time to time with 4011
Posted 31 May 2012 - 01:08 AM
I've had problems with the opaque yellow too. I wonder if it's just the nature of the beast??
Posted 31 May 2012 - 08:19 AM
You also might just be getting whats called dry tip,it happens when more air then paint gos out the end of the airbrush and drys on the needle causeing it to clog adding a drop or two of gliseren to the paint helps
Posted 31 May 2012 - 10:41 AM
You may also have some paint dried in the little holes in the nozzle, so try soaking the nozzle parts in acetone, and then backflushing with acetone, and then with water, to see if that helps.
I have a couple of the Master airbrushes, and find this helps when they don't want to spray. The brushes I have both have the MAC valve, and I use them for detail work, so they would clog more easily because I'm spraying at lower pressure and paint volume, but they work with Createx, as long as I thin it.
I avoid dry tip between coats by resting my brush in a tupperware with a little water in the bottom, so the tip is in the water. I guess I could design a tupperware with a hole, and a wet sponge inside, and put my brush in there upright while I'm painting, but I'm too lazy.
Try thinning your paint with the 4011 reducer, like Gunnie says, and see if that doesn't help.
Posted 03 June 2012 - 11:25 AM
Glycerine is a water soluble clear, odorless, tasteless substance used as a base for mixing medicines. You can find it in the pharmacy department of most drug stores.
Posted 03 June 2012 - 04:51 PM
what bobp said
Posted 08 June 2012 - 12:25 AM
Here is something to think about and is sort of related to the ease of spraying. When you get some serious hours on a brush the plating begins to wear off. When the plating wears off the paint will stick to the parts, ie needle and whatever the part is called the needle goes through (tunnel), not the nozzle. Anyway this happens faster with the more harsh cleaners like acetone. As the brush ages the more clogs it will have. Thinning, replacing the needle, and using retarder will help but eventually ya need to toss it and get a new gun. Now the cheaper the brush the faster this corrosion will happen. THere is a reason they are cheaper, but regardless it will happen to the best brushes after so many hours. I've owned and used Masters and they will work just don't expect to get the same performance. I will go through an Iwata per season and I only paint hard for about 3 months a year.