Twindad90

Envirotex Problem

26 posts in this topic

Hey guys I need some help here. I have started painting cranks and have been using 2 part epoxies and ran out. I went to the local Michael's and bought some Envirotex. I have heard good things about it so I tried some. Well I painted a crank it looked good and then put the Envirotex on. Well I did not mix the stuff right first time! Though that looks like enough hardner etc... Ruined a few crankbaits lesson learned. Well I remixed the correct way and did not eye ball it.

Here is my question I live in NC and the humidity has been high the last few days. The coating on the new cranks looks great and clear but they are still soft after about 30hrs of drying. They are not sticky like the first batch just soft. Have any of you had longer drying times because of humidity? I do all my work in the garage where the temp is not controlled.

I brought them into the house this afternoon to see how they are in the morning.

Thanks guys!

Chris

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I live in Georgia just south of Atlanta and my D2T us setting up fine. IDK how Devcon compares to Envirotex but it is a 2 part epoxy, as I'm sure you know. Hope this helps!

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Etex takes waaaaaay longer to set than Devcon. My Etex usually sets to touch in 8 hours or so....Devcon about half that. I live just N of N'Awlins and I assure ya...the humidity here is about as bad as it gets.

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Yea I have never used this stuff so I didn't know what to expect. I have not used the Devcon (no where around here sells it that I know of) but I have used other 2 part epoxies and they dry almost over night.

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Saltshaker,

I think that my baits were touchable in about 8 hours. Do you coat yours inside?

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Etex usually dries to touch in 8 hours at 70 degrees, but it can take up to 72 hours to hard cure at 70 degrees. Humidity does play a role in cure time. Under 50% humidity is best. We have our days in the summer in MN with high humidity. I built a heated drying box for my lures and I usually run the temp between 80-90 degrees. I can touch and recoat the lure in less than 8 hours. I always let my lures set for at least 3 days after final topcoat before I fish them. Mixing 1/1 resin to hardener is important and mixing well is important. I mix my etex for 5 minutes and let is set for 15 minutes. Fat Fingers did a how to tutorial which helped me alot. Here is the link. http://www.tackleunderground.com/community/topic/12510-trying-to-achieve-a-flawless-finish/

CLM

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Like CLM said, mix is critical. I had much trouble with my mix when I first started. My lures were hit and mis on drying or tacky forever. A trick i learned was to use an old two part mixing syringe like this

http://www.google.com/products/catalog?client=safari&rls=en&oe=UTF-8&q=devcon+two+ton&um=1&ie=UTF-8&tbm=shop&cid=7335561619048047322&sa=X&ei=UqzGT7HGCIyq8ATe642cBg&ved=0CG0Q8gIwAw#ps-sellers

Any brand will do. Simply empty the syringe and clean with alcohol. Pulling the push rod out the first time is a bit tough but a screw driver works for me. Put the cap on and fill with the etex. Then reinstall push. The first time is a bit messy but with time it gets easier to refill. Now you have an accurate way to measure your two part epoxy every time. Works for one bait or ten. I mix for at least five minutes.

I turn my baits for 5 hours and do not touch for 10 hours for good measure. And no fishing for 3 days is a good idea like CLM said.

Devcon 2 ton is much faster process due to the shorter drying time. It can usually be found at small hardware stores in my area. The biggies like lowes do not carry it but Ace does. Also some mom and pops hardwares carry it. I think they must target these smaller stores here at least.

Good Luck.....

Vic

Edited by littleriver

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If you don't have a scale to weigh the two parts equaly get one there about 10 bucks at harbor fright and your mixing prob. will be over after applying it hit it with a hair dryer and get the bubbles out as it turns on your drying wheel as it heats the e tex and gets it curing at a little hotter temp that should do the trick

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Saltshaker,

I think that my baits were touchable in about 8 hours. Do you coat yours inside?

Well, inside my shot but the part of it I use for painting is not air conditioned.

The "70 degrees" is not a problem here. Today at 1:00 pm my truck thermo registered 96.

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When your baits are "hard" does that mean like an epoxy? Like I said I have never used this stuff so I'm learning.

Thanks

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I brought the crankbaits in that I coated and I can tell a noticeable difference in them already. They have been in the house about 5hrs. We will see how they are in the morning. I was looking through the Grainger book and they sell the Devcon 2 Ton. I may pick some up to use until I get the hang of the etex. I really like the finish of the etex but it just seems to not leave much room for error.

Thanks guys for all the help.

Chris

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I brought the crankbaits in that I coated and I can tell a noticeable difference in them already. They have been in the house about 5hrs. We will see how they are in the morning. I was looking through the Grainger book and they sell the Devcon 2 Ton. I may pick some up to use until I get the hang of the etex. I really like the finish of the etex but it just seems to not leave much room for error.

Thanks guys for all the help.

Chris

I doubt you'll find any epoxy to be much more forgiving. You can buy Devcon all over the interweb.

Good Luck

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I live in GA and don't have that long of a cure time. I usually do mine before I go to bed and so it cuts the wait time for me. But I use syringes to measure properly. Obviously use 2 different syringes and make sure you don't mix them. It may be your mix ratio is still wrong or not being mixed properly?

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Hi from Michigan. I have used ET exclusively. I buy little measuring cups from a medical outlet locally. You can search Ebay, most everything is available there. Small baits like yours prolly only need 1 coat. Watch your hands so that oil does not get on the bait before applying, as this will create a bare spot. I am looking to make a few walleye baits soon, and have not made baits in awhile. So I need to follow my instructions I gave to you also. Good luck!

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E-TEX sets up by a chem.reaction of the two parts not by the temp(yes it takes longer at lower temps) of the air outside at 70 deg. it sets up the best so you will have some working time.. so if the baits sticky or soft the mix was'nt right like i said in the above post get a small scale from harbor fright to weigh out equle parts and your prob. will be solved just mix it well so the two parts are well blended

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Twindad, I live about 25 miles away in Summerfield and coated baits last evening with Devcon Two Ton in my garage. They're rock hard today. Temperature obviously has an effect on cure time. Maybe humidity does too but I haven't noticed that with Devcon. Envirotex Lite is different from Devcon in that it contains solvent and cures much slower. High humidity may slow the evaporation of the solvent in ETEX but I honestly don't see that as the main problem. Assuming your bottles of ETEX are good (and we rarely if ever hear of guys getting "a bad batch") there are 2 typical problem points: measuring or mixing. Of the two, failure to mix really thoroughly is more often the problem. I mix Devcon VIGOROUSLY for at least a full minute. Since ETEX is slower to cure, you can mix it even longer without having to rush anything. In fact, the ETEX "masters" around here reportedly mix it, then let it sit for 10-15 mins before brushing it just so it will create a thicker coating.

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You need to measure exact amounts to use Etex, i use the syringe method mentioned above. I like the durability over D2t but it does take a little more effort. Mix at least 3 minutes and scrape the sides of the mixing vessel regularly. It's great stuff just picky.

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how can you weigh the etex. as one part is lighter than the other. or do you make an alowance for this.

heat aparently is a big part of the cureing for etex, loz harrop put some people right over this on an other fourm. he has a heater built in with his dryer. its the heat that sets the etex hard, its a part of the cycle.

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Your right in that one part is lighter then the other,if you read the instruction(aways a good thing to do first) its a mix of weight not amount that is mixed to get the best finish,as for heat it helps the cureing some

but it's not like a paint where the hotter it is the faster it will cure,after 70 (manuf. spec.) it will not help set it much faster and below 70 deg. it will stay soft longer

Edited by crankpaint

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Crankpaint,

I'm pretty sure that the directions I read said to mix on a 1:1 ratio by volume. If it wasn't volume they're ripping us off because we will have more of the heavier part when we run out of the lighter. This has been discussed many times on here and I am pretty sure that it always comes down to volume not weight. Either way you have to mix very thoroughly.

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Volume versus weight: some say measure by weight but both Devcon and ETEX instructions clearly state to measure by volume http://eti-usa.com/envirotex-lite/professional-tips/ A Devcon syringe set obviously outputs equal volumes of hardener and resin, too, so I measure by volume. Some guys put epoxied lures in a heat box to speed up the cure process. ETEX says the heat should not exceed 100 F. At room temperatures, Devcon should cure hard enough to touch/lightly handle in about 4 hours and ETEX in about 8 hours. Both should be 90%+ hard in about 24 hrs. My view is that applying heat to curing epoxy just introduces another variable that can screw things up. If you're building/selling lures, OK, it will save a few hours. If you're a hobby builder, just cool your jets and let chemistry take its course. I've cured Devcon at 40F and 100F, and every temp in between.

I think we make all this harder than it has to be. Measure epoxy pretty accurately, mix the hell out of it, and it will turn out just fine.

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I always try to run my heated box between 80-90 degrees. Like BobP said and Etex states do not exceed 100 degrees F. I had the temp climb in my box once after not checking it for awhile. Didn't have the dimmer switch set right. It was around that 100 degree F mark and the etex bubbled on the lure. It wasn't the end of the world I just let it dry, sanded some and recoated. I don't want to make a habit of that so I check the drying box often. Mixing equal amounts and mixing well is the most important part.

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1.1 grams hardner to 1.0 grams resin. Works for me!

your right about mixing by volume bob(my bad sorry) and if it works well don't mess with it,and as stated above more times then not its the mixing and not the amount so long as its close in the amount of the two parts, its going to work,all i was saying was its easyr to weigh each part and mix the two and end up with what imo is a better mix as its a 50/50 mix or as nedyarb uses 1.1 to 1.0 thats still mighty close to 50/50

Edited by crankpaint

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