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bluetickhound

Amazing Clear Cast

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Has anyone tried the Amazing Clear Cast? I looked for it in the search function and didn't see that anyone had posted about it. It's a two part clear coating and casting resin. I see it at Hobby Lobby and it seems like it would be a good strong topcoat type of product. I may take a flyer and spend the $20... If I do I'll post a review.

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Ok... I went ahead and got it ( mainly because I had the 40% coupon knocking the price down to around 12 bucks!). After mixing it up and coating a couple of pieces of test wood I can say that so far it's a "qualified success". Downside is that it takes at least 24 hours to fully cure (and I still have about 4 hours left on that...) but as it sits currently Amazing Clear Cast (hereafter to be referred to, in true TU style, as ACC) is a winner. It dries to a slightly flexible finish and is clear and bubble free, and I mean completely free of blemish whatsoever. The true test will come when I put the test pieces under water for a length of time to test water PROOF vs. water RESISTANT... The packaging makes no mention either way.

Here's a link to the site

http://www.alumilite.com/ProdDetail.cfm?Category=Casting%20Resins&Name=Amazing%20Clear%20Cast

Edited by bluetickhound
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Ok.... Here's my verdict on ACC... It's waterproof (at least it is for 36+ hours of submersion...) it lays down as level as glass, it likes sharp edges a little better than D2T and needs no thinning whatsoever. It also dries a bit softer than D2T and I can dig a thumbnail deeply into the dried finish, come back in an hour and it's like nothing happened. I have got a lure on the turner now and when I get it completed will update further on how it performs in a real world fishing situation. I wish I could post pictures but until I either get a new computer or somebody at TU can tell me if I have a signup glitch with the computer I already have I'm stuck with my "smart" phone....

Edited by bluetickhound
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I looked at the specs and 80D is pretty darn hard (I use to calibrate hardness testers) it should be a great clear for toothy fish I was thinking of trying the older clear casting resin for a clear but I am glad I didn't it would probably make a good pre-paint sealer for wood also the 24 hour cure time is'nt bad at all I use E-tex and let it cure for 36- 48 hours .I was wondering about how long does it take to stop flowing so you can take it off of the drying wheel

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My experience (as short as it may be!!) has been to leave lures on the wheel for at least 4 hours. I have found ACC to be an excellent medium for making fish eyes also. What I like about ACC is that it dries hard, yet is resilient. Once cured, it seems to "self heal" from scratches. I even clamped down a little bit (not hard enough to tear up the lure but more to simulate what a toothy fish might do) with some needle nose pliers and two hours later... Presto!! Good as new.

Edited by bluetickhound
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Sorry for the late reply but the answer is no... ACC has no perceptible odor at all. What I have noticed tonight is that (barring operator error, which is ENTIRELY possible...) ACC doesn't seem to like second coats... The lure I'm making for a friend is going along great but after swim testing (which required drilling a home to add ballast) I sanded down the lure with 400 grit, recoated and I'm seeing spots where it's not covering... Not really "fish eyes" so much as its almost like silicone surface contamination... I wiped the lure down with a clean, semi damp ( practically dry but not quite) lint free cloth and still have an unacceptable finish.... Will re-evaluate tomorrow and try to see where I went wrong...

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Two things come to my somewhat feeble mind as possible problems, the sandpaper and the water.

No-load sandpaper uses something to hold the grit that releases when you sand, so there's always fresh grit and it doesn't get loaded with sanding dust. I'm not sure what they use, but that may be a contaminant.

I think the water is a more likely culprit.

I would try wiping it down with denatured alcohol instead. I had the tech. at Etex tell me to do that if I waited longer than 24 hours to recoat. Any time within the 24 hour window, it wasn't necessary.

You might try calling the manuf. and talking to their tech. reps to see how to proceed.

Recoating your epoxy shouldn't be a problem.

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Just to update y'all on the latest in my experimenting with ACC... My test piece has been submerged for going on four weeks now and is showning no sign of leakage or breakdown at all. Another test piece i have left out in (more or less) direct sunlight hasnt shown any yellowing or discoloration at all to date... I'm still reluctant to tell everyone to run right down to the store and get some (unless,like me, you make your own lure eyes... In that case i wholeheartedly endorse ACC as a great medium for this!) but if you're looking for an alternative to D2T or etex (etex i've never used but i have gained a good but of experience with D2T...) i'd say give ACC a look. In my experience the workable pot life is around an hour or so and it seems to be at its best as a dip topcoat so plan on having several lures to dip/hang/dry.... If you are only doing one lure you'll definitely want to brush it on but be ready to hand turn it or have the lure already attached to your motor driven turner and don't put on too much at one time or tarry with the brushstrokes!! ACC is kind of thin so it will definitely run if you put it on too thick.

BTH

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clearcoat,,,,,,,,,,i am using shopline jc 60 and automotive clear coat with the fast hardner, of course its a 2 part clear coat, i refinish boats with it and tried it on my lures,,,,,, all i can say is phenomenal and only about 30/gal and 20 for hardner, and you can spot repair it if you get a bad scratch, super hard , and dries very fast with heat gun and no cracking, in under 2 hours ready to use.

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