quickdraw

Big Rattles For Big Plugs

37 posts in this topic

@ quickdraw

Some good points in your stats there , ..........gets me thinking !

I'm only concerned about 100% safe sealing off against water sepage , that's why I'm using putty or epoxy glue to fill up the hole over the drum-heads(ends of rattle casing).........but I probably should make something similar to the "Clackin' Rap" for comparison , .......if I won't try , I would not find out about a possible difference !

But in fact after sanding back flush that putty , -or glue filling it would remain as thick as only 1/20" or a tad more .

Also I'm a bit concerned about glue overflow into the bore possibly binding the BB's inside(I always fill in two , as I've found , that these are louder than just one or even three BB's) , when fixing metal discs to close the rattle chamber , ........this is why I've though about these casings displayed in my video .

I've even thought about trying to solder the lids of my rattle casings, not just beat them flush against the tube's ends , .......this way they would be waterproof and I could also let them protrude over the lure's flanks without any filler , ........but also I'm concerned , that the heating-up might affect the BB's somehow , or the solder seam would turn out imperfect and the rattle chamber would still soak up water .

Just my :twocents: .............cheers , diemai :yay:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

@ quickdraw

Some good points in your stats there , ..........gets me thinking !

I'm only concerned about 100% safe sealing off against water sepage , that's why I'm using putty or epoxy glue to fill up the hole over the drum-heads(ends of rattle casing).........but I probably should make something similar to the "Clackin' Rap" for comparison , .......if I won't try , I would not find out about a possible difference !

But in fact after sanding back flush that putty , -or glue filling it would remain as thick as only 1/20" or a tad more .

Also I'm a bit concerned about glue overflow into the bore possibly binding the BB's inside(I always fill in two , as I've found , that these are louder than just one or even three BB's) , when fixing metal discs to close the rattle chamber , ........this is why I've though about these casings displayed in my video .

I've even thought about trying to solder the lids of my rattle casings, not just beat them flush against the tube's ends , .......this way they would be waterproof and I could also let them protrude over the lure's flanks without any filler , ........but also I'm concerned , that the heating-up might affect the BB's somehow , or the solder seam would turn out imperfect and the rattle chamber would still soak up water .

Just my :twocents: .............cheers , diemai :yay:

With the way you are bending over the end it would be better to braze the end to seal it. Solder needs to have have material on both sides to bond.

I will start on my next version of a rattle chamber in a few days and post pictures. I have some 1/2" OD copper that is 3/8" ID that my 1/4" ball bearings will fit well. I can also get permanent caps for this size tube so I can make a tube slightly longer than the body is wide. I can solder the caps on to make it water tight, drill and seal the wood as I normally do, epoxy the rattle into the wood then seal with the topcoat and let the rattle protrude past the body sides maybe 1/8". It should be much louder than the first ones I just finished.

Edited by quickdraw

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I didn't want to take the time to cut a new blank so I took an old plug I had and modified it to hold the new model of rattle. After cutting and assembling it I found that this version is quite a bit louder than the previous version. I soldered the caps on the tube so it is watertight. The extra weight is countered by the air trapped within the chamber and the wood cut out to house the rattle. I'm waiting for the new topcoat that I used to seal in the rattle to dry before I can give it a swim test in the pool. When I build a new one from scratch it will be painted while assembled so the rattle won't be so obvious. The sound is very sharp similar to the Rapala Clackin series.

083.jpg

Edited by quickdraw

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Dieter,

I use discs from aluminum cans to seal my rattle chambers.

I drill a small pilot through hole first, to line everything up, and then make a 5/16" countersink, 1/16" deep, for my aluminum disc.

Finally, I through drill a 1/4" through hole, using the pilot hole for centering, and make sure I've really got it cleaned out and smooth (since I'm using PVC I don't need a straw liner). I actually driill half way from each side, because the lure is already shaped and it's hard to get the holes to go through straight from one side. PVC gives me a large margin for error. Even sloppy holes work.

I force one of the aluminum discs into the 5/16" countersink on one side, use brush on crazy glue with an accelerant to seat and seal the disc, and then add the sst BB's to the 1/4" hole.

I seal the other end with another aluminum disc, and seal it in with brush on crazy glue and accelerant again. By hitting the glue with accelerant, I avoid having it run into the rattle chamber and gluing the sst balls ( been there, done that).

I usually top the recesses off with bondo, and sand it down to the lure's contour.

Like you said, I don't think the bondo is thick enough to deaden the sound of the rattle.

In the past I've placed the rattle chamber between the eyes of my swimbaits (thank you Riverman) and even with the 3D eyes glued over the aluminum discs, the rattles are still plenty loud.

Edited by mark poulson

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

@ quickdraw

Thanks a lot for your picture , ...says more than words .

But you've said before , that you were a plumber , so I guess , that those copper end caps and recessed tubings belong to your usual materials for work , ...in fact I haven't seen such before , ...pretty much suited for the purpose , indeed !

@ mark poulson

Thanks for your describtions and sharing your findings as well , Mark , ....gets me thinking , too !

Gotta try two minutes epoxy glue instead of my usual five minutes stuff , .......that one should do the job as well ?

Definately gonna try this metal disk assembly for next winter's lures , ....I'm kinda lazy these summer days B) !

Thanks again , ....greetz , Dieter :yay:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Dieter,

Just be sure the 2 minute epoxy is waterproof. I know the crazy glue is waterproof....I've tried to wash it off when I got my fingers stuck together, and it didn't work. Hahaha

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Dieter,

Just be sure the 2 minute epoxy is waterproof. I know the crazy glue is waterproof....I've tried to wash it off when I got my fingers stuck together, and it didn't work. Hahaha

It should be , Mark , ...I'm planning on same company's stuff like the 5 min glue , that I'm using for so many years now , ......never had any issues , ....the stuff is too expensive to cause some :lol: .

Thanks , ....greetz , Dieter :yay:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Well after building two different types now I've found two different sounds:

The first one had aluminum discs cut out of a soda can on the ends for the ball bearing to hit. This type produces dull knocking sound like knocking on a heave door with one knuckle. I also found that the 1/4" ball bearing is putting a dent/dimple in the metal where it hits. Now that the clearcoat has setup it should be stronger.

The second one was built using copper pipe as shown above. This one produces a sharp sound like tapping two metal tools together. This one also needs less effort to move the bearing from side to side probably due to the ball rolling on a metal surface.

I plan to get out later this week to use these and see if the sound can produce any magic on some big fish.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

@ quickdraw

Have you tested your rattling lures in a bathtub or just by shaking them in your hand ?

I've found , that bath tub testing is a great way to determine about rattle sound variations , ...as the tub amplifies and transmits sound very well !

Thanks for sharing your findings .

@ mangeboy79

What a nifty little tool there in your link , .......haven't seen such before , thanks for sharing , ........I had tried closure plugs out of timber before , but to me metal just provides a sharper and louder sound(the question is , which sound pattern would fish prefer :lol: ) !

Cheers , Dieter :yay:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

@ quickdraw

Have you tested your rattling lures in a bathtub or just by shaking them in your hand ?

I've found , that bath tub testing is a great way to determine about rattle sound variations , ...as the tub amplifies and transmits sound very well !

Thanks for sharing your findings .

@ mangeboy79

What a nifty little tool there in your link , .......haven't seen such before , thanks for sharing , ........I had tried closure plugs out of timber before , but to me metal just provides a sharper and louder sound(the question is , which sound pattern would fish prefer :lol: ) !

Cheers , Dieter :yay:

diemai diffrent wood diffrent sounds :) seems like lighter woods are louder for some reasons, cedarwood is really loud , and if you like metalsound more just glue in a washer in the hole and on the plug

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I would imagine if you are going to use a wood plug the you could only drill from one side and stop short of penetrating the other side, insert ball and seal with the plug. The loudness of the sound would be proportional to the force of the impact and wood tends to damped sound. The size of the ball and action of the lure would determine the impact.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!


Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.


Sign In Now