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Left Lure In Hot Car... Finish Bubbled... Doh!
43 replies to this topic
Posted 01 July 2012 - 05:47 PM
As an aside... What is the general consensus as to dipping finished balsa lures in DN S81 as a topcoat? I know the issue with humidity and being cautious not to let runoff drip back into the main container as well as the necessity of keeping main container open time to an absolute minimum but my question is this... does DN S81 dry harder than D2T or is it pretty much six of one, half dozen of the other?
Posted 02 July 2012 - 09:14 AM
You might also try scuff sanding your epoxy sealer with either fine sandpaper, or a brillo pad, to get a better mechanical bond for your primer.
Posted 02 July 2012 - 12:21 PM
I have actually been doing just that with 400 grit., which really leads me to believe the thickness of the polytranspar white base coat is the problem. Will go with multiple thin coats (with better heat setting w/ hairdryer) from now on as opposed to one or two thicker coats. Also thinking about shelving the D2T for the time being to experiment with DN topcoat and/or trying my hand at propionate topcoats. I've been all over the search function to try and see what folks are saying about either one and it's hard to get a consensus... I also saw on the intrawebz a product (the. And of which escapes me right now.. Will search and edit shortly...) that looked very promising yet didn't show up on a search here....
Edit: that product is called Epifanes... Anyone familiar with it?
Edited by bluetickhound, 02 July 2012 - 12:22 PM.
Posted 02 July 2012 - 04:26 PM
I doubt the thickness of the paint had much to do with the bubbling problem. At one time several lure companies dipped their baits in paint for the base coat and if you've ever worked on a Poe's crank you'll know what I'm talking about. It was thick to say the least. Now if you applied a thick coat of paint and didn't let it dry properly we may be talking about a whole different problem.
Here's an experiment that might give you some insight as to what caused your lure failure. Take a non-porous material and paint it the same way you did the lure that failed using the exact same procedures as before. Then set it in the same location for the same amount of time and temperature. Now wait and see what happens. If the paint fails on the non-porous material you'll know it was the paint and painting procedures that are the cause of the problem. If it doesn't fail then it's more than likely going to have something to do with the wood that was used. Either it wasn't sealed properly or it got so hot the air, and possibly moisture, in the wood is the culprit.
Edited by RayburnGuy, 02 July 2012 - 04:34 PM.