Musky Glenn

Never Ending Hollow Hound

5 posts in this topic

Well I have now made three hollow bodied hound lures, just trying to reduce weight. This last one shows more promise than the first two did. I took it to the lake a couple of days ago and my weight was to high so the lure wanted to lay on its side part of the time. Even with this problem some of the time it would right itself. When it did stand up it would walk back and forth just like it should. I came home and tore the weight out that was up high and layed it out along the bottom of the lure. How nice it is to have access through the top of the lure. The biggest thing that I did to this lure to get some action out of it was to make the bottom thicker so that I had more room up the sides to get a bigger radius on the bottom. This photo shows the thicker bottom section that will be glued back between the two sides. Allow the pvc plumbing glue to set over night as it softens the pvc causing it to tear easily.


Here you can see the radius that allowed the lure to wobble rather than glide which I believe allowed it to walk right and left.


A good way to hold small parts when you want to do routing on them is to use this shelf liner. It has good grip to the table and to the lure allowing you to rout with out clamping. Also makes a nice pattern to spray through.


I use spring clamps to hold sides together while the glue dries. The short piece of brick mold is what I buy to make these lure out of.


On the left is this lure just after being sawed into sections. On the right is the same size piece with 1/4 inch sawed off one side. I was able to save more weight with the one on the right than the hollow type. I haven't thrown it yet to see what it will do.


An over head view of the thickness of the two lures. The thinner one has 6 half ounce sinkers spread out along the bottom. If I get the thicker one to work I will glue the top in solid instead of with removable pins.


For RayburnGuy and all the other non musky fishermen. Musky fishermen take it for granted the size of lures that we use all the time. So just to let you see the size of these large musky lures here it is beside a Bill Norman (some Texas Red color) DD22. The rods we use are stiff enough to get these heavy lures started on a cast. Then the lures weight does the rest. They are very easy to work back. So far the hollow hound drains quickly and is "light" to cast.


Here is one photo of an expanded size Shallow Invader. What I wanted to show here is the technique for pouring. I sacrificed one section of my three section mold that I use to pour replacement tails. I can back my pvc lure tight to the mold and let it pour inside the lure making a better bond than any way that I have glued them together. Believe it or not, but they do trim up nicely.


All this was from the ideas given here on TU. Couldn't have done it with out you guys. Hope it helps someone else. Musky Glenn

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Congrats on working out all the bugs.

Does it take long for the lure to fill with water and sink like you want?

Does it take long to drain once it's back in the boat?

How do you get a tail out to replace it, once it's gotten torn up?

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Mark- The lure is a sinker so on the cast it never comes back to the top, so it must fill instantly. I can say that because when I take it out of the water the stream stops by the time the lure is two feet above the water. It's not instantly, but real close. You can feel it loosing weight as you lift it from the water. The shallow invader is made with two half inch wide holes in the rear end. I will just take a half inch bit and bore it back out. The plastic I have been using is remelted zoom type worms and they produce a much more flexible tail than the factory ones. This helps them come alive. I am going to add weight to get the hollow hound to stay upright. Then I will take a video and post. Musky Glenn

Edited by Musky Glenn

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Interesting concept , ....thanks for sharing your progress !

Good luck furthermore , .....cheers , diemai

Edited by diemai

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