littleriver

Anyone Seal With Superglue?

40 posts in this topic

I was wondering if anyone who seals with superglue has ever tried dipping lures in it. Seems to me one would get better penetration than just smearing it on. My biggest concern is storage. Any thoughts?

Vic

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I do. I smear it on with my finger. I take medical gloves and cut off the fingers. I only us one finger to coat them so i get multiple uses from one glove. Ive tried dipping them, but i get a little penetration and less ridges when its rubbed in.

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..............but how deep will it penetrate(no matter whether dipping or smearing on) , as it cures pretty fast ?

And if you don't get it cheap from the dollarstore , this method can be quite costly either , at least over here .

greetz , Dieter :yay:

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I seal with superglue but have never dipped. I use the dollar stuff which seams to penetrate well. I would guess if you soaked the lure in superglue the penetration would be good, just difficult getting it smooth when it came out if it set quickly.

Angus

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I smear it on now and really like sealing with the stuff. Just would like more penetration and less mess. I use zap products and it too is not cheap Dieter. My concerns with dipping is first I would have to remove from the container it came in to something with a lid big enough to dip baits. I wondered if it would skim over or evaporate easily in this type of vessel. Super glue is usually stored in containers with tiny openings. Not mason jars. Then I worry about accidently supergluing the lid shut. Either I don't wish to waste 40 bucks of super glue. Once the removed from original container there is no going back

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I haven't dipped with it, but I am seriously considering the idea, as I have a cheap source.

My experience is that it will last. It seems to do better when kept in bulk. If I was not going to use for a long time, I would store in smaller containers, full to reduce air. I would keep the original containers.

I apply with my finger and use acetpne to clean up after. It is not pleasant, but I like the speed.

Dave

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Dave, I really like the speed too and how little weight it adds to the total build. I learned about acetone after glueing two of my fingers to a bait. :nono: I really would like to reduce my exposure to acetone.

My thoughts were to use the rear hook hanger and front line tie holes for dipping. Dip nearly the whole bait and then hang to dry. Switch hanging rod to opposite hole and finish dipping rest of lure.

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Hello Vic, good question. I have sealed balsa with super glue but never by dipping. This may sound silly but I would worry about it soaking up too much super glue and catch fire during the curing/hardning process. there have been times when gluing in a hook hanger that the wood/glue actually got hot enough to smoke, and it stinks, not to mention the burning sensation in your nostrils. also, when gluing up a hanger, I have had super glue soak all the way through the wood from the inside out and glue my fingers to it so I would assume that it would readily penetrate rather deep into the balsa wood. don't know about other more dense woods. Me thinks I will mostly be sticking with PVC when I have time to tinker. I do know that compared to balsa sealed in other ways it really hardens the wood and makes it have a very different sound if you hit it against something hard.

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I use super glue with balsa although I'm not really trying to seal the lure with it. I like the added hardness the super glue gives balsa once it soaks in. In my opinion it doesn't give as smooth a surface for painting that epoxy does without a lot of sanding. And if you have to do that much sanding then how much of the hard surface are you sanding off? This is why I still apply a coat of epoxy over the balsa lures that I've coated with super glue.

Ben

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Some interesting aspects posted here , ...I was just curious , hardly doing any baits out of balsa .

Especially the softer , lighter kind of balsa should be well suited to soak up any fluid laquer or glue very well .

Nevertheless , ...if I was to seal off balsa blanks , I would try to dip them into some kind of diluted laquer ,......I would most likely try clear modelling dope or model builders balsa filler(primer) , both available at RC model shops for a relatively small buck .

At least modelling dope dilutes easy with it's specail thinner available , ...but I guess , nitro thinner is a well suited and cheaper substitute as well , .......the stuff also can be kept in an old , airtight locking sausage glass jar for dipping and also diluting or remixing .

................gone fishing , ....cheers , Dieter :yay:

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Dieter

Have any idea how long it would take the lacquer to dry?

Thank you for the suggestion. Now I have another option to ponder..... :?

Vic

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Littleriver, When we used to spray lacquer onto furniture, it was the fastest drying clear finish that we used. We had a problem on table tops keeping the field "wet" until we got back with the next stroke. If we used the high dollar auto type of lacquer, they had a slower drying thinner that helped that problem some. Not sure how dipping and soaking would affect that drying speed. Musky Glenn

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Dieter

Have any idea how long it would take the lacquer to dry?

Thank you for the suggestion. Now I have another option to ponder..... :?

Vic

Vic ,.... unthinned modelling dope starts to set very fast , so that on bigger lures same problems like described above by Musky Glenn might occur .

The original purpose of that stuff is to be used on the paper covers of RC model wing frames of balsa , it soaks into the special paper and pulls the fibres real tight together , so that the paper layers come to sit real snug and tight over the frame under a certain grade of tension , .........therefore it's German name is "Spannlack" , meaning as much as "tension laquer" .

It's available transparent , but also in a variety of different colors .

I have once tried white modelling dope on sheer pinewood , but it did not adhere well , .....blame it on the resin containing in that certain timber OR the color pigments inside of the laquer , ........after curing I could just peel it off the wood .

But with transparent stuff used on more or less porous balsawood such can never happen , I'm 100% sure of that , ...especially not when diluted for deeper penetration !

On another site it was also recommended to use modelling dope as a topcoat for lures meant for non-toothy fish like trout or perch , .....but it can easily affect or dissolve previously applied paintcoats due to it's strong solvent , one's gotta be cautious about this matter and try on a scrap piece first .

On occassion of a visit to a model shop I've also seen a laquer there called "balsa filler" , just next to the modelling dope in their display rack , ........describition on the can said , that it would be suitable to seal and prime balsa construction parts(of aircraft models)and render them weatherproof to a certain grade , ...after fine sanding it also would provide a smooth surface for high gloss painting of the model .

Maybe this stuff would be suitable for lure sealing purposes as well , ..........probably ask the staff of such shop for advice , they surely could provide better info .

Over here that clear modelling dope costs about 8-9 Euros per 500ml can , ........they also sell smaller cans , but these are getting more expensive , if one puts price and contents into relation .

Theres also is a special thinner available , ......bought it once in the model shop , ...but since it smelled very similar to nitro thinner , I've used that cheaper stuff from the tool mart after the special thinner was used up , ...also worked equally well .

I have not used modelling dope for sealing purposes before, as I hardly do balsa baits , ......only applied a few coats over epoxy top coats , since it seemed to cure a tad harder than the epoxy I've been using by that time .

But after the first pike I noticed , that the dope did not adhere well on the epoxy , .....bit by bit I could strip the layers off the epoxy , once the coat was pierced by fish's teeth . The epoxy coats underneath were not harmed , .......so a rather useless working step .

So I guess , that the best purpose of the modelling dope is sealing off sheer balsa wood prior to priming and nothing else , period !

Greetz , Dieter :lol:

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Essential kit when working with superglues, is an extractor fan, or at least a fan to disperse the fumes. You really don't want to breathe this stuff, it is nasty! Think cyanide every time you use it and you will be careful.

Dave

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Great advice! I have a high volume fan on high in my face the whole time. Still the fumes get to my eyes. Slight burning sensation. May need to wear some sort of goggles. Wonder if I can find some with readers built in. Sucks getting over 40 and everything has to be in my face with magnifiers on to see anything.

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Little River, Have you tried having the fan behind you or to the side blowing away from you instead of toward you. You actually get less terbulance if the fan is sucking instead of blowing. Musky Glenn

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Musky Glenn, I have not but because it feels so good in this heat. Shop lacks air but if it stop my eyes from bleeding I will give it a go. Thank you!!

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Just my 2 cents here. I have dipped with it but had bad results from it. It had runs and required lots of sanding. My favorite way to seal it is to use clear finger nail polish.

After sanding I do a coat of fingernail polish, then sand again then one more coat of polish. Usually its ready for the epoxy coating to give it a nice surfice to start painting. Sounds like a lot but it is faster than it sounds.

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I've used "super glue" for a few things on lures before, but never sealed a lure with that name brand. I have used CA glue from a wood working shop which seems to me to be the same thing. It works well to seal the wood for my pin-eye joints in wood bodies. The one I use is labeled "Thin" so I get better penetration in the wood then I would have with the "Thick".

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BJBarron I had not thought of it running or using fingernail polish. How did you store the superglue for dipping and was it a pain to store? Thank you ...

Fishsticks I use the thin stuff from zap as well. Really good stuff but pricey .

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I had a pint of it I got from a freind the lid always wanted to glue its self shut and was a pain to open. The biggest problem was the fumes it was horrible to say the least. I'll stick with the clear finger nail polsih from the dollar store works fine for my needs.

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I had a pint of it I got from a freind the lid always wanted to glue its self shut and was a pain to open. The biggest problem was the fumes it was horrible to say the least. I'll stick with the clear finger nail polsih from the dollar store works fine for my needs.

A Finnish friend does the topcoat of his lures by dipping them into congrete laquer a couple of times , ........he keeps his dip mixtures in glass jars having a spring-locked glass lid .

As he once wrote to me , he also had the problem of the lid sticking to the jar , ........to overcome this little issue , he would cut out a piece of a plastic shopping bag and place it over the jar before locking down the lid onto it , .......should also seal airtight this way .

Guess , that a pure white or even transparent bag would be suited best , .......who knows , whether it won't lose it's colors into the mix , .......not so important for just primer or sealer coats , though .

greetz , diemai :yay:

Edited by diemai

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As far as bulk CA goes, you can get it it either thin, medium or thick from Highland hardware in Atlanta. I haven't tried it as I've been really happy with either DN, ACC or D2T... depending on my whim at the time.

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Man that's cheap. I've been paying almost $25 for a 4 oz. bottle of Zap-a-Gap. And that's not including shipping. Thanks BTH.

Ben

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