Cougarftd

Top Coat Question

11 posts in this topic

I am experimenting with a few different top coat options. Trying to find a dip and hang option for ease of use. I like the Dick Nite top coat but I am having problems with the colors bleeding and running when I dip it. I use createx, auto air, chroma, and wildlife colors airbrush paint. I use a heat gun between coats until they are dry to the touch. How long should I wait fore paint to cure before I dip them or spray them? I have been waiting 8-10 hours and by all appearances they are dry. However when I dip them and come back 15 minutes later the colors are bleeding, I did not have this problem with the devcon but it is kind of a pain to work with. Anyone have these problems or have other top coat options that work for you? Thanks!

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I use the same paints as you, and dip them in urethane as a top coat, but I don't wait 8 hours before I dip them. I also dry them between coats with a hair dryer, first on low, and then again on high.

The urethane I use doesn't make any paints run, but it does make solvent markers run a little.

I dip with SC9000 by Target Coatings. It has no storage issues, and you can drip back into the container without worrying about it setting up.

Here's the link:

http://www.targetcoa...eries-25-1.html

I dip three times, one hour apart, using a paper towel to remove drips from the bottom as the appear for the first 15 minutes.

I hit the lures with my hair dryer on low after 30 minutes, and again after 45 minutes, and they're ready to dip again after an hour.

Otherwise, just hang for two hours as recommended by the manuf. and redip.

Either way, let the lures cure for 24 hours after you've dipped them.

Their SC9000 is listed as interior, but it holds up well for my bass lures. It is truly super clear, and doesn't dull any paint scheme, including metallics. It holds up well to bass fishing, but it softens if it's left in water or on wet carpet overnight. It doesn't soften at all during a full day of fishing.

They also make an exterior urethane, EM9300, that I use for salt water lures. It is completely waterproof, but does dull the paint schemes a little.

A good way to get maximum protection without loosing too much pop from your paint scheme is to do two dips in the SC9000, and a final dip in the EM9300.

The EM9300 has such a high film strength that it will cause a slight crackle effect if I apply it over my paint directly, so I always dip in SC9000 at least once before I use the EM9300, just to protect the paint.

There are lots of other top coats out there that will work.

This is just what works for me.

Good luck.

Edited by mark poulson

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cougar, i have been having the same problems with dick nite. the only color that seems to bleed is red. I have even waited for two days before I dipped the lure, and still bled.

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Try shooting a waterbase clear on your baits before you dip them. It may stop the bleeding.

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This one has been discussed before. Try doing a Hardbait section forum search using "Color bleed" (include the double quotes). Several threads with good suggestions and possible causes. I have considered DN but it seems to take a longer work flow (many days and patience) . i have that much patience so I stay with Devcon epoxy which is working for me.

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I use the same paints except the chroma and haven't had the same problem. The only time I've seen this with DN is when I dipped something coated with a solvent based color or a petroleum based undercoating.

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I used a clear "prep" coat spray on these baits that I completely forgot about...I need to see if it is petroleum based. Thanks for the suggestion.

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If your "prep spray" has a solvent in it then it may not be playing nice with the solvents in the DN.

Ben

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Problem solved...the surface prep spray I was using had petroleum distillates and solvents. Shot a couple of blanks without that prep spray and the dick nite clear worked great. Thanks for the help guys!

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Glad you got it figured out Cougar. I learned that lesson the same way you just did.

Ben

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