ravenlures

From Musky To Bass Lures

5 posts in this topic

Just received some unpainted lures from bustinbassbaits, They all look great. But going from a 9" musky lure to a 2.5 bass lure is going to be a challenge for me. I will have to start over on how to handle them. Now is it best to dip in accetone before priming. Other then that it will be trial and error.

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When I paint plastic lures I give them a quick dip in clean acetone. (thanks for the tip Mark) And when I say "quick dip" I'm talking about just in and out. And don't try to wipe them dry with anything. That will only cause problems as the acetone has softened the plastic and wiping it will just smear the softened plastic. The acetone will flash off really quick and they will be ready for paint in just a few seconds.

Ben

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Do you dip in acetone to give the primer more bite? I ask because I purchased some unpainted plastic blanks and I was just going to rattlebomb paint directly to the plastic.

Don't want to hi-jack this thread but for the airbrush guys, have you tried priming with rattlecan paint (not primer) and then airbrushing over?

The last few wooden lures I've done, I omitted the primer and sprayed directly on the sealer (Titebond 3 waterproof wood glue). I gotten great results.

I'm starting to notice that sealing with Titebond, it's not necessary to prime.

Thanks

s54

Edited by seeking 54

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I check and see if there are any mold lines, if so I sand them off smooth and then flash them with acetone.

Jerry

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Do you dip in acetone to give the primer more bite? I ask because I purchased some unpainted plastic blanks and I was just going to rattlebomb paint directly to the plastic.

Don't want to hi-jack this thread but for the airbrush guys, have you tried priming with rattlecan paint (not primer) and then airbrushing over?

The last few wooden lures I've done, I omitted the primer and sprayed directly on the sealer (Titebond 3 waterproof wood glue). I gotten great results.

I'm starting to notice that sealing with Titebond, it's not necessary to prime.

Thanks

s54

When I dip plastic bodies in acetone it's more to make sure the lure is free from contaminants. The lure bodies get oils from your skin on them just from handling them. And who knows how many people have handled them before they got to you.

I don't use a "primer" on any of my baits whether I'm painting plastic bodies or baits I've built out of wood or PVC. I think the words "primer" and "base coat" get confused at times. After making sure the bodies are clean and free from oil I go right to my base coat which is usually either white or black. On the wood baits I seal them with epoxy and then spray my base coat directly onto the epoxy.

I use an airbrush and water based paints. You can get into trouble using a rattle can primer or base coat and then spraying an entirely different type of paint over it. Rattle can paints have solvents in them and sometimes they don't play well with a different type of paint. Paint "A" may have a different solvent in it than paint "B" and sometimes those solvents aren't compatible. The same thing can happen when using solvent based top coats. It really sucks to put a nice paint job on a lure and then see the paint wrinkle as soon as you apply the top coat. This happened to me and the culprit was the solvents in the rattle can chrome I used weren't compatible with the solvents in DN.

Ben

Edited by RayburnGuy

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