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Weighted Hook Mold

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I've done that using a drill press.

With the bit inserted in the chuck and locked down tight, and with the drill press OFF, I lower the bit down to the depth I want the eye socket to be, and then lock it in with my depth adjustment. Not all drill presses have these, but it keeps the bit from grabbing and going too deep. Drill bits like to grab aluminum.

Then I raise the bit back up with the spindle handle, turn the drill press ON, put the mold back in position, and SLOWLY lower the bit down until it begins to remove material.

Don't rush, and use a sharp drill bit.

Do a test hole first to make sure your depth is right. You can do it on a part of the mold that is smooth and away from the actual jig location.

The depth adjustment is critical, so, if your drill press has one, use it. If not, figure out how to stop the bit from going too deep. You can build up the bed under the mold with layers of wood, plywood, and shims. That works, too.

Take your time, and get it right the first time. Molds are expensive.

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Thanks Mark. I've noticed that the weighted hooks I have purchased are all flat eye hooks, that is why I asked the question. Is there a reason why flat eye hooks for weighted hooks might be better? I have also noted that the weight is further forward at the bend towards the eye, whereas the Do-It mold has the weight further to the rear bend. Pop

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