Nathan

Solarez Uv Top Coat

584 posts in this topic

Thanks for the heads up Bob.  You saved me learning the hard way.

I'll look into a gel coat repair kit.

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Solarez dipped over 3 color lacquer based color coats, i.e. green frog, with yellow dots with black camouflage over dots.

After curing, has anyone seen the 3 color coats bleed, seep or distort by Solarez, or do they retain their distinct original shapes?

Thanks.

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Solarez dipped over 3 color lacquer based color coats, i.e. green frog, with yellow dots with black camouflage over dots.

After curing, has anyone seen the 3 color coats bleed, seep or distort by Solarez, or do they retain their distinct original shapes?

Thanks.

 

So far, no bleading , seep or distortations under or by Solarez for me.  I have heard that it does not like "Sharpie" though, so keep that in mind.

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My Solarez was supposed to be delivered yesterday, can't wait to check it out.  Now if I can get Fedex straightened out, I might get it before I go back to work. lol.

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Hey Fellas,

 

I've read all of the post in this thread and had to give the Solarez a try.  I received it yesterday and spent the morning building a foil reflective foil box for the black light (thanks for the idea Cedar Lake Musky). I have attached some pics (I hope they are appropriate, I have read the rules and I hope these will answer some questions and provide usable info for the thread, not showcase my work)

I took a before pic of a plug that was sanded and ready to move to the next step. I used an acid brush and brushed the solarez on directly from the container. I placed in the light box and rotated it a few times for about 3 minutes. I noticed there were a couple of spots with thin coverage, so I added a second coat and repeated the light box steps. I took a couple pics of the box and the foil lining as well as the finished plug. It looks pretty good and I will paint a base coat and see how it goes from there.

I do have a couple of questions:

 

1. The smell is not great, smells a lot like sawed styrofoam (reasonable), does anybody know the hazard level?

2. Has anybody used it as a base coat and then etexed for final coat ( I wonder about a harder initial coat and then softer final coat on durabilty for denting on rocks etc.)

3. Have people been using multiple coats? any issues?

4. How many are dipping vs. brushing and what type of brush? I won't dip as most of the lures I make are larger musky sized.

5. Any issues with it setting up from the ambient room light (if brushing a larger musky lure)?

 

Thanks fellas, great thread and I appreciate everyones input. I will play with it some more and report back, but I am interested in others responses to my questions.

Best,

MS

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1) Not sure of hazard level...did not see warnings from munufacturer

 

2) It has proven to be pretty durable in the limited testing I have had (Lakes frozen up here now) then again I don't fish for toothy critters. Does well against the rocks though

 

3) I usually use 2 coats and have had zero issues

 

4) I brush...cheap art brushes from hobby lobby 100 for like 5 bucks

 

5) Will not set up from ambient light...Need UV...i have done several bass baits and put them all ander the light at the same time...have not had any set up while waiting so you should be fine with that.

 

Hope that helps.

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Your welcome MS,  do you think the foil helps reflect the light so it hits all parts of the lure?  Are you getting the solarez to cure in 3 minutes?  I haven't lined my box with foil yet but it is on my to do list.

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As far as the health hazards have you looked at their website to see if they have an MSDS sheet available?

 

Ben

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CLM

I don't have a negative control for the effectiveness of the foil, but it did cure in 3 minutes, I rotated the lure in my hand and after 3 min. I checked and it appeared cured so I left it sit in the box while I cleaned up.

I paid $12 for both the fixture and bulb on sale at Menards, I used the same model bulb recommended by CLM the bulb is from GE part# 98165, 18" black light. The light box was a direct wire that I added a plug in cord to. Model ST115R8.

Hope it helps.

Anybody have info on temp when applying? Didn't care for the smell, better done in garage but its cold?

Best

MS

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I don't notice enough odor to make me worry, but I've been around chemicals so long my nose may not be sensitive any more.

It is viscous, so having a fan on behind you while you coat, to move the fumes away from you won't cause any problems.

I have a box fan mounted up high in the back of my garage, and have it on, blowing past me from the side and out toward the open overhead door when I dip or brush my baits with Solarez.

 

I am more concerned with the UV light affecting my eyes.  

I am careful not to look into my UV light box for long when I coat, and I cover my nail light box while it's curing my baits.  If I need to look into the light for some reason, I wear UV protected sun glasses.

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Just got mine tried it on a wood blank to seal . Wow fast put out in sun 55 here today, cured in 4 min!! Alittle overcas but cured fast... cool stuff very little waste and the best part no mixing and spinning!

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why am i getting alot of saggy spots when i dip the baits?

 

i basically dip and hang to drip, wipe off the excessive, hang for about 10 mins max and i see the saggy spots, this happend 2 times on two baits i dip.

When i brush it on its better but i see lots of brush lines.

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I would guess on the baits your dipping you should let them hang longer before curing them.As for the brush marks..you need to use a softer hair brush..Nathan

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Anyone that's planning on making a curing box should realize one thing.  Tin/aluminum foil is a very poor reflector.  White gloss paint does a better job of reflecting light.

 

I've been into aquariums for years so I know a little bit about reflectors.

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If you use regular white gloss paint in your boxes you will eventually be upset.  Regular paint will break down with the exposure to uv light and the heat.  First you will loose the gloss and then it will flake off.  However they do make specialty paints for uv light reflection and it is expensive.  Tin/aluminum foil does not break down over time with the exposure to uv light so it will last virtually forever and it is cheap.  Most uv light reflectors are made of aluminum.

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If you use regular white gloss paint in your boxes you will eventually be upset.  Regular paint will break down with the exposure to uv light and the heat.  First you will loose the gloss and then it will flake off.  However they do make specialty paints for uv light reflection and it is expensive.  Tin/aluminum foil does not break down over time with the exposure to uv light so it will last virtually forever and it is cheap.  Most uv light reflectors are made of aluminum.

 

Ditto, and additionally, white reflects visible light, but it is not that great in the UV spectrum.

 

Case in point, the inside of every fingernail UV cure box is a reflectorized foil; none of them are painted and none of them are white.

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Beer cans are made from aluminum also.  

 

Just because it's aluminum it doesn't mean it's a good reflector.

 

I'm planning on building a curing box.  I'll use a 55 watt CF bulb from 1000bulbs.com and a 55 watt kit  from AH supply.  I've used AH Supply kits from all my high light aquariums. 

 

I can look at a bare 55 watt CF bulb.  Put it in that reflector and it will blind you.

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I just used mirrors.  You can get cheap plastic mirrors  (or even glass ones if you want) like the ones people hang in lockers, from Amazon.  I like the plastic ones just because they won't shatter and I can flex them a little bit.

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I just read through the whole thread, but still have a couple questions.

 

1)  Will working in a garage or room with windows let in enough natural light to cause a problem?  

 

2)  Between coats, do you have to cure the first coat .... or do you just let it drip and then put the second coat right on - and then only cure once?  I think you have to cure after each coat, but I'm not sure.

 

3)  If I hang the lures on a little rack in the sun to cure, do I have to rotate or move them around to get a full cure, or will the sunlight kind of engulf the lures and cure the whole thing?

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I offer the following from my experience:

 

1) If your windows are facing the sun and they are open, there is a possibility.  If the sun is not directly shining in the window (like it does in northern latitudes at times) then I seriously doubt it.  My windows are north facing and I have NO issues with the natural light at all.

 

2) You must cure the first coat first.  If you don't you will never get the bottom coat to cure and it will create haze.

 

3) UV light is line of site, you must rotate the lure to get proper cure.  Light will not "engulf" the lure.  If you don't you will get shadow effects on parts of the baits.

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Last night I painted up six lures, two out of the six had a air bubble about the size of a dime on the side of the lure. It was the first time this has happened and not sure what happened. I cut one lures "skin" to see what it looked like. And it was just an air pocket. Any ideas?

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Were the lures heated after the  Solarez was applied but before it was cured?  If so, the heat caused air inside the lure to escape into a bubble.  So far, we haven't heard of Solarez itself causing any bubbles due to a chemical reaction with any other coatings, but I suppose it is possible depending on the other coatings on the lure.

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