Nathan

Solarez Uv Top Coat

584 posts in this topic

8 sided would work. I may be getting caried away here but when I get stuck on something I keep going till I fall off a cliff. HARD HEADED as my wife says.

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What does this have to do with Solarez??????? Sounds like a new topic needs to be started....

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@ Brent R

I'm guessing it has something to do with a UV curing box for baits that will interrupt the beam of UV light for short periods of time to give a glossier top coat.

@ Wayne

Let me do some figuring and I'll get back to you. It's been a while since I've used these formulas. The angles are no problem. What I'll have to do is break the circles up into sections and figure the chord lengths. Might have to open a book for those equations. Will get back to you.

Ben

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Yes it has to do with a curing box. And thanks Ben. When I get it done I will post a picture plus the plans.

Wayne

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Wayne you could ask ...Bass100 for some help....he has already built one.......Sorry for being a dumb azzz... sounded like you were building a space ship...... :whistle:

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I think I stated this wrong each dia. will be with 1/2 inch boards one 14" cylinder and one 18" cylinder dia. it looked like I was saying 4" thick boards. Also the angle needed to cut the boards and how many boards needed to make those cylinders.

Ill get this right yet

Wayne

Have you ever seen the really heavy round cardboard concrete forms that they sell in home improvement centers? I don't know what they cost, but they come in the diameters you want and might save you a lot of carpentry work. http://hatchbuildingsupply.com/includes/pdf/RoundConcreteForms.pdf

Dan

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Wayne if I've calculated this right the chord length on the 14" circle will be 5.3576" and on the 18" circle it will be 14.137". The degree of cut for each side of the board will be 22 1/2 degrees. This will give you an 8 sided shape that will be the given diameters where the boards meet.

Maybe one of our resident engineers can check my figures to make sure they're right. I used to do this sort of thing regularly, but it's been quite some time since I've been down that road and a lot of brain cells have died along the way. :wacko:

good luck,

Ben

p.s. The chord length will be the width of the boards.

Edited by RayburnGuy

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Thanks alot Ben. There are many round objects that I could have used. I just wanted to work with wood which I have growen fond of doing since retirement. Time does not matter anymore with me. And if I could build a space ship I would have done that along time ago with the help of my wife who would like to put me in it, I do drive her crazy with the things I come up with.

Again Thanks.

Wayne

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No problem Wayne. Let us know what you come up with and how it works. That is if your wife hasn't blasted you into space yet. :D

Ben

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Since it sounds like shorter, repeated exposures help retain gloss, why not hit one side of the bait for a minute, rotate to the other side for a minute, and just repeat until the resin is hard?

I know I'm probably missing something here. That sounds too easy.

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Why not do both sides at the same time and do 10 at a time on a rotating table. Just keep them rotating till cured, keeping light on one lure at a time as it moves by. Just adjust speed to curing time. Might take 10 minutes, but at 10 lures thats 1 minute each. Thats what I am shooting for.

Wayne

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Considerably less it is a thinner product.You'll need a couple coats but with a cure time of a few minutes it's no big deal...Nathan

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Mark,

As soon As it is cured.In theory... Using PVC you could build,paint top coat and fish a lure in just a couple of hours...the hold up would be the paint drying...Nathan

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Has anyone used solarez for sealing wood and making blank smooth for painting? Also I think hazmail was trying the solarez epoxy. If you see this hazmail how's that working for you?

CLM

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Has anyone used solarez for sealing wood and making blank smooth for painting? Also I think hazmail was trying the solarez epoxy. If you see this hazmail how's that working for you?

CLM

I used it to seal some old baits I am restoring for a friend. I heated it up and put 2 thin coats on . It leveled really nice and ended up with a nice hard seal coat. It took the paint really well and finished up with 2 coats for a clear coat. I think it turned out ok.image.jpg

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Edited by Cougarftd

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I am trying the low voc/odor dual cure polyester resin. I have tried curing it in the sun, with a 51 led uv flashlight, and a uv fluorescent blacklight and none of these ways are working. Surface remains tacky and I can leave my fingerprints in it. I can also push my fingernail into it. I have left it to cure in these 3 ways for alot longer than the 3 minutes that the bottle states. Maybe I am using the wrong solarez product. So far I am not impressed!!!!!! I have spent some money on the product and two different lights with no success. :pissed: Might have to go back to etex, even with longer cure time and two part mixing I get better results.

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I am trying the low voc/odor dual cure polyester resin. I have tried curing it in the sun, with a 51 led uv flashlight, and a uv fluorescent blacklight and none of these ways are working. Surface remains tacky and I can leave my fingerprints in it. I can also push my fingernail into it. I have left it to cure in these 3 ways for alot longer than the 3 minutes that the bottle states. Maybe I am using the wrong solarez product. So far I am not impressed!!!!!! I have spent some money on the product and two different lights with no success. :pissed: Might have to go back to etex, even with longer cure time and two part mixing I get better results.

Have you tried contacting the manufacturer to see if they might know what's wrong? Could be you got a bad batch.

Ben

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Have you tried contacting the manufacturer to see if they might know what's wrong? Could be you got a bad batch.

Ben

I fired off an email tonight to solarez. Hopefully I get a response. I talked to them before I ordered this to see what product they would recommend. This was one of three. Might have to try the other two.

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