I only use water based paints also, Createx and ComArt.
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Solarez Uv Top Coat
583 replies to this topic
Posted 28 March 2013 - 10:27 PM
You can also put a drop of MEKP (fiberglass resin hardner) in solarez if you're concerned about light not getting to some sections of the bait. Most auto parts stores ans walmart carry it.
Posted 30 March 2013 - 12:59 AM
I picked up some MEKP today and will in corporate that into my process. How long does it take for the Solarez to set using this? I will also finish the baits 1 at a time so I can get them UV'd quicker.
Posted 03 April 2013 - 10:14 AM
my apologies for the delayed response. I used very little MEKP when I tested it. I think I added one drop per ounce of resin. I wish I would have timed it to see how long it took to cure by itself but I know I had plenty of time to work with it. I ended up curing it under UV light but left the remainder in the cup and meant to check on it but lost track of time. However, I did come back to find that it cured on it's own with the MEKP in it. I just don't know the exact working time, sry.
Posted 03 April 2013 - 09:32 PM
Thanks for the follow-up. I'll give it a shot in the next week or so. I may give it a shot on a Resin bait so I won't deal with the blowup issue.
Posted 04 April 2013 - 11:50 AM
I got a sample of their cast resin to try. Since (from what I recall) you only have to add mekp to it too. Not sure how it will work with filler, but that's why I got a sample.
Posted 24 April 2013 - 10:59 AM
When I cure the jigs I make I am getting a sticky result. I've even cured it outside all day while I was at work. I'm doing something wrong.
Posted 24 April 2013 - 03:42 PM
Are you painting your jigs before you coat them, and, if so, with what?
Solarez will make solvent based stuff run. I coat any solvent based sharpie work with a coat of clear gloss createx, or a dip in water based urethane, before I dip in the Solarez, to provide a barrier.
Posted 24 April 2013 - 09:59 PM
I sure am. I have been powder painting them. Then put on the eyes. Proceed to coat with the solerez. I wonder if it is the powder coat.
Posted 25 April 2013 - 08:49 AM
You might try rubbing the finish with denatured alcohol to remove any impurities or oils. Also, try the solarez on a piece of aluminum and let it cure. If you are having the same sticky result with different surfaces, then you may have a bad batch. I would call Solarez and see if they have any recommendations before you jump to that conclusion though.
Posted 25 April 2013 - 08:52 AM
I dipped some cranks the other day.
Let them hang for about 5 minutes.
Wiped out the eye screws.
Then flipped the lure over and let it hang upside down for a minute.
Flipped the lure back over for about 30 seconds.
Then hit it with the light.
I seemed to get a more even finish doing this. In addition, this was my best looking batch yet. These had the "glossiest" appearance so far. However, I'm still experimenting with the headlight restorer product.
Posted 25 April 2013 - 11:08 AM
Ya know, I was thinking about using this very technique. Glad to see someone else had the thought and tried it! Personally, I really like this stuff. I know it isn't as glossy as epoxy but it goes on thinner and is pretty tough. Also, I love being able to fish right away with a bait I just painted.
Posted 25 April 2013 - 02:09 PM
Thanks! I'll try it.
Posted 25 April 2013 - 04:43 PM
Also, try brushing it on. I've noticed on some surfaces that brushing it on (and brushing into the surface pretty hard) helps with the coverage on when curing. I do this more so on unpainted resin bodies.
Posted 27 April 2013 - 08:58 PM
Got a batch of Solarez to see how it holds up to SoCal saltwater gamefish. Started by making a simple drying rack to set in the sun. Applied the Solarez to the first swimbait by dipping and hanging to drip with a few rotations for about five minutes and then set outside. The bait had a slight pooling on one edge even though it was not noticeable prior to curing. The second bait I brushed and although it appeared to have some minor visible brush strokes they were not evident once cured. Brushing was actually quicker and cleaner overall than dipping. Once out in the sun they were set up in a few minutes, overall a very quick and clean process.
Now the big question will be durability. Every top coat that I have used that was hard enough to withstand the fish has had a problem with chipping and subsequent peeling at the edge where the segments clack together. We will see how the Solarez holds up next weekend when they hit the water.
One additional note. There was a slight bit of the fisheye effect on one section of the bait. It was only over a portion with the same color on each bait. The paint itself did not lay down well during painting so I think it was somehow contaminated and this may be the reason behind the issue.
So far so good!
Posted 28 April 2013 - 06:31 PM
After playing with Solarez a little I've found that even though it will setup in a few minutes it is no where near fully cured and hardened. I was sealing a new swimbait with it today and used the leftover to put on a piece of scrap wood. After 5 minutes I could still peel it off of the wood with my fingernail. The surface seemed hard but the bond directly where it penetrated the wood was still soft and it separated. When I let it cure in the sun for another hour the surface was even harder but the bonding point where it had penetrated the wood was solid. It was truly bonded to the wood.
I also used MEKP in this batch. I put 1 drop in around 1oz of Solarez. This was the first time I have used MEKP and I was curious how long it took to set and harden. I was brushing the Solarez on the new bait and also did some repair to some other baits I was refinishing and repairing. The Solarez was still usable for at least 30 minutes before it got goopy. I kept it out of the sun and after 4 hours it had solidified to a firm gel consistency and after 8 hours was more solid but still a little wet to the touch. I would imagine it would take 16 to 24 hours to fully cure but even then I would still want to wait a few days before trying to continue working with it. Sunlight does a much better job but when trying to use Solarez directly on an unsealed surface or any situation where it may not get hit with UV's I plan to use MEKP in addition to UV curing.
Posted 28 April 2013 - 11:36 PM
Do you find that once the curing starts it continues even without the UV or does it need to be continually exposed to UV for the curing to continue?
Posted 29 April 2013 - 10:29 PM
If you are talking about only using UV's then it needs continued UV exposure to fully cure. I think I may have underexposed a few baits in the past as the Solarez peeled off way too easy. The MEKP continued to cure but it is taking a long time to get fully cured. In the future I will use MEKP as an insurance policy for anything that gets into areas too difficult to get good UV exposure and still "overexpose" it to sunlight to get it as hard as possible. I'm getting a good feel for Solarez and have come to the conclusion that it is best applied above 75* and given as much UV exposure as possible for at least a few hours.
Posted 29 April 2013 - 10:47 PM
I believe that Solarez cures from the outside in. When it is exposed to UV's for a few minutes it will setup on the outside but the bonding point where it contacts the paint or wood isn't fully set or bonded. As the curing process continues the bonding point will continue to cure even to the point where it may have penetrated slightly. I have recently become a fan of "over exposing" it for up to several hours.
Posted 29 April 2013 - 11:25 PM
Thanks for the heads up Quickdraw. I just recently received my Solarez and that will help me avoid some of the issues you've already dealt with.