grim7989 Posted October 18, 2012 Report Share Posted October 18, 2012 ok i dont know if this is already discussed or not but i couldnt find it in a search so here goes i have been making flat sided baits for three years and have always had good action well the other day i decided to make a round body and when i got finished i went to fish it and it dosent swim its just like pulling a stick through the water any suggestions would be great i use jansnetcraft bills on all the cranks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RayburnGuy Posted October 19, 2012 Report Share Posted October 19, 2012 A picture of the bait from a couple different angles might help show what the problem is. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bassguy Posted October 19, 2012 Report Share Posted October 19, 2012 I'm with Ben on this one. Photos will help a bunch, also symmetry is of the utmost importance when doing round shaped baits. Jerry Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vodkaman Posted October 19, 2012 Report Share Posted October 19, 2012 I agree, pics would help. It is usually the tow eye too far away from the bill in these cases. You may be able to rig up a temporary eye, just to vary the position and see the effect, can be quite dramatic with just a couple of millimeters movement. Dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark poulson Posted October 19, 2012 Report Share Posted October 19, 2012 You have to play around with your lure's size and shape to see what works best for you. I have found, thanks to the members here at TU, that the position of the line tie in the bill is the key for me. For cranks with the line tie in bill itself, I want at least a little more bill in front of the line tie than between the line tie and the lure. The closer the line tie is to the lure compared to the amount of bill beyond it, the wider the action of the lure. If I have less bill in front of the line tie than between the tie and the lure, it will swim like a stick. The more bill in front of the line tie compared to between the tie and lure, the wider the X like action of the lure. Just know that you will reach a point where the lure may blow out, because the ratio of bill before and behind the line tie is too great, causing instability. That will teach you the limits of that lure's bill configuration. You have to play around with your lure's size and shape to see what works best for you. I've also found that bill width is important. For cranks I want to dive well and have a wider action, I try to make the bill at least as wide, and usually a little wider, than the fattest part of the lure body. The same goes for shallow cranks with the line tie in the nose of the lure instead of in the bill. A good way to get started is to use a store bought lure that works with the action you want as a guide. Try and copy the proportions and ballast weight distribution of that lure to begin with, so you can make a lure that works. After that, you can begin to play around changing stuff to see what does what and why. I match the ballast weight distribution by floating the lure I'm trying to imitate in a bucket of water, and weighting my crank with split shots hung on the belly trebles hook points until my crank hangs the same way. If I need to add ballast, I try to put 2/3 in front of the belly hook hanger, and 1/3 behind it, and keep both as close to the hook hanger as possible without weakening the hook hanger. For me, it's not an exact science, but it is doable, and the general rule/guidelines I learned here make it easier. I can make cranks that swim, so I know it's possible for anyone. Good luck, and let us know how your lure turns out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grim7989 Posted October 19, 2012 Author Report Share Posted October 19, 2012 i like to do things the hard way so i wont take someone elses bait design and copy i did pull the lip out of the bait hollowed out more and stuck it back in and i have noticed i am getting a better wiggle now so thank you mark for that huge piece of advice here are pics if anyone else has anything to say thank you all for your responces Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RayburnGuy Posted October 20, 2012 Report Share Posted October 20, 2012 Usually the closer to the bait the line tie is the wider it will wobble. Line ties at about the midway distance from the nose of the bait to the end of the lip will generally dive deeper, but you give up some of the wobble by using that placement. Since you removed the lip and hollowed out a deeper slot for the lip so it went up inside the bait farther you made the distance from the nose of the bait to the line tie shorter. This is essentially the same thing as keeping the lip in the same place and moving the line tie closer to the bait. Are you buying your lips somewhere with the line tie already in them? If so you may want to consider making your own lips and twisting your own line ties out of stainless wire. This lets you use whatever size lip you deem necessary and position the line tie accordingly. Hope some of this makes sense. good luck, Ben Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
littleriver Posted October 20, 2012 Report Share Posted October 20, 2012 (edited) Looks Like maybe a weighting issue. Where is your ballast in this bait in relation to the front hook hanger?How does the bait sit in the water? Level, nose down or tail down . Where is the waterline? The bait has little or no belly. I am assuming the ballast is close to the centerline of the bait. Edited October 20, 2012 by littleriver Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
