SNOWMAN CUSTOM BAITS Posted October 20, 2012 Report Share Posted October 20, 2012 I have been pouring for a few years and have a question. I have a problem with my shakey heads the head wiggles on the hook shank after a little use. I use pure soft lead as I can get all I will ever use free, could this bee the problem? I remove them pretty quick after pouring could this cause the problem? My supply is running low and it's time to pour again just trying to get some things to try to solve this problem before I start. Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jig Man Posted October 20, 2012 Report Share Posted October 20, 2012 Soft lead is my bet. I have it happen on spinnerbait heads so I add a little printer's lead. You can add some wheel weights. That should fix it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cadman Posted October 20, 2012 Report Share Posted October 20, 2012 Yes pure soft lead will do that sometimes along with removing a hot jig too quickly from a hot mold . Let your jig solidify in the mold before you remove it. Also once you paint them they should tighten up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SNOWMAN CUSTOM BAITS Posted October 20, 2012 Author Report Share Posted October 20, 2012 Thanks guys I will round up some wheel weights and try to make a few. Cadman yes the paint helps but after a little while and hopefully a few fish the powder paint chips around where the hook goes through the head and they shake to. I know this doesn't effect the fishing but I want them to be as good as I can make them. Thanks for the help Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smallmouthaholic Posted October 21, 2012 Report Share Posted October 21, 2012 Painting soft-lead lures that have been poured and used for spinner baits /buzzbaits will not tighten them up-neither will leaving them in the mold longer to cool.You must use a harder lead.That said,I never use wheel weigts- too many negatives associated w/ them.Smelt some lead -free solder (15% for starters) in w/ your soft lead. You can also buy harder lead from quality sellers on e- bay that does not contain any wheel weights. Soft lead lacks the necessary antimony that will make it harder and suitable for spinner/buzzbaits. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smalljaw Posted October 21, 2012 Report Share Posted October 21, 2012 I have ths happen with 1/16oz shaky heads and like cadman said and you already know, powder paint will stiffen them up until it chips. I agree with smallmouthaholic that on spinnerbaits and buzzbaits that if it is loose there isn't a lot you can do other than repouring it. I disagree with smallmouthaholic when it comes to leaving it in the mold, it WILL help, I'm not talking 5 more seconds, I'm saying if you pour the head and pour so the sprue comes over the top of the mold and then leave it sit for 15 seconds and then open the mold and take the head out by the spru that it will bo on really good. Another trick you can use is epoxy, I like to epoxy coat my painted shaky heads, and even though they are on the hook pretty good I stil worry so after I'm finished coating them and my epoxy begins to get stiff, I'll take a little of it on my brush and add a small amount of it at the base of the head where it meets the hook. That will hold the head in place for a long time. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SNOWMAN CUSTOM BAITS Posted October 21, 2012 Author Report Share Posted October 21, 2012 Yes the 1/16 I made are very bad. I use mostly 1/8 to 1/4. I thought about the epoxi but I don't paint most of mine unless the fish are just biteing the tail of a fire tail or chartreuse tail worm, then I use a head the color of the tail of the worm so they bite the head instead of the tail. I take my heads out of the mold pretty quick. I think I will build a few and let them set in the molds a little longer then build a few with some harder lead and then epoxi a few and see witch ones hold up better. I wish the water would cool of some more so I can quit fishing the dang little worms and start froggin and spinnerbait fishing. I hate fishing this slow! Thanks for the tips guys Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jigatollah Posted October 22, 2012 Report Share Posted October 22, 2012 (edited) If you can get access to some printers lead, grab as much as you can. Its considered more of a lead alloy because of the additives in it as its approximately 75-80% lead and pours very smooth. Its also much tougher than pure lead and it will harden much tighter around any hooks or wires. I use this stuff for my spinner biats and tiny 1/16 oz crappy shad head tubes. I think its called linotype lead but will have to check for sure when I get on my work computer and get back to you on this. Edited October 22, 2012 by Jigatollah Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smalljaw Posted October 22, 2012 Report Share Posted October 22, 2012 Since you don't paint the heads then I suggest you use the epoxy and what I would do is mix it up and then put it in the hook shank close to the head and then hang them on a rack by the hook, this will let the epoxy, while still thin, run into and around the base of the head and hold it for you and it is tough and will last. Once they are dry which will be overnight you will be good to go or if you want to really make them tough mix some more epoxy and apply it to the area where the hook eye comes out, use a tooth pick and then let them dy by laying them down with the hook eye facing up, you don't really need to do that step but it will take any doubts you have away. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jigatollah Posted October 22, 2012 Report Share Posted October 22, 2012 The lead I mentioned is linotype and its 84% lead, 12% antimony and 4% tin. Very fluid and fills nicely even in small jig molds. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SNOWMAN CUSTOM BAITS Posted October 22, 2012 Author Report Share Posted October 22, 2012 Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CNC Molds N Stuff Posted November 1, 2012 Report Share Posted November 1, 2012 (edited) I'll look it up when I get a chance, but there is atleast one supplier selling extra hard alloy lead in 1 lb blocks on Amazon. 70% Lead 30% Antimony. You don't use it directly. You use a little bit of it to change the melting point and hardness of your dead soft lead. Because the 70:30 is pre-alloyed you don't have to worry about reaching the melting point of pure Antimony in order to make your own ideal alloy. Some of the shooters sites give various mixes to get various hardnesses using the 70:30 hard. Rotometals (just remembered). Its not cheap, but like I said you don't use it directly. You mix it about 15:1 give or take depending on what you start with and what you want. Edited November 1, 2012 by Bob La Londe Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Gangel Posted November 1, 2012 Report Share Posted November 1, 2012 I am, I believe, super heavy on antimony/zinc right now. My lead hasn't been pouring so well, and in fluxing/skimming, and not letting it get hot enough, I'm sitting on about 50 lbs of just the "slush", which I do believe to be almost straight antimony and zinc. I'm waiting to get more junk soft lead to blend it back in, or I dunno what to do with it. I hate to try and get rid of it, not knowing what it truly is. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cz75b Posted November 13, 2012 Report Share Posted November 13, 2012 Zinc in your lead pot will be a giant problem and will not provide good casts with any mold. Once in the melt there is little you can do to remove the zinc and reclaim the lead/tin/antimony. Pure, soft lead melts at a higher temp than alloyed like wheel weights and Linotype. In small cavity molds especially, this results in not filling in details well and a mold that is tough to keep at an optimal operating temp. That is why the hooks are loose. Don't believe the do- it instructions regarding the use of pure, soft lead. It's bad advice. Surf any bullet casting site and learn a lot about precision casting and lead alloy use. This is where the use of mold release came from. The bad news is that alloyed lead wheel weights are being phased out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smallmouthaholic Posted November 13, 2012 Report Share Posted November 13, 2012 (edited) I'm waiting to get more junk soft lead to blend it back in, or I dunno what to do with it. I hate to try and get rid of it, not knowing what it truly is. Buy your double-fluxed ,soft-lead from various e-bay preferred sellers. I've never had a problem in 5 years dealing w/ them.I pour thousands of 1/16 and 1/8 oz. jigs of various ,custom designs every year - 80% w/ double barbs. I'll even flux it once when i melt new lead- just to remove any excess dross.Free and junk lead causes nothing but problems. 24 years of experience has taught me to stay away from freebies and cheap deals. I mentioned this before-I smelt lead free solder in the soft lead to get the harness I desire for spinner baits and buzzbaits. You'll know it's correct when it becomes harder to cut off the lead sprues w/ the dykes. Avoid using Harbour Freight dykes for harder lead as the handles will break. They do work fine for soft lead. Here's a link to purchase Lino-type lead with a good explanation of this product http://www.midwayusa.com/product/1124392345/certified-linotype-bullet-casting-alloy-4-pct-tin-12-pct-antimony-and-84-pct-lead Edited November 13, 2012 by smallmouthaholic Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
